Hi, I'm in the process of getting my bike ready for winter storage and had a question. The last thing I need to do is an oil change. I purchased a Stahlbus oil drain valve for the bike when I first bought it and just never got around to installing it. Now that I'm planning on tracking the bike, and figuring I'll be doing more frequent oil changes, I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to install it now, as I'm sure it would speed up the process. The valve comes with a cap that can be safety wired, however the valve itself would not be. I'm just not sure if it's a good idea to install it now or if it would even pass tech inspection. Do you guys have any advice? Thanks!
Will a Stahlbus oil drain valve pass tech?
- Thread starter Jgelack
- Start date
I have the Fumoto valves on all of my vehicles and love them. I do not have them on my motorcycles. Looking at that design of the Stahlbus valve this would pass tech for Novice and Intermediate only as those classes do not require safety wire. If you plan to ride in Advanced, you will need to safety wire the drain plug.
HondaGalToo
Control Rider
I agree with Jim about it passing tech in Novice and Intermediate. However, safety first, we encourage all groups to safety wire the oil drain plug, filler cap, and filter. BUT, it's only required in Advanced.
Looking at pictures of the Stahlbus, it looks like a spring loaded ball bearing valve is what keeps the oil in (after removing the drain tube), with a safety cap over it. I wonder how all that holds up under the higher speeds/vibrations on the race track? If the ball bearing valve fails or leaks, how leak-proof is the safety cap? These are just the questions I'd ask myself. I have no experience with these drain valves, nor have I seen one in person. But the safety cap looks like it's just finger-tightened?
It looks as though they make a safety cap that can be wired, that would be better for the track, I'd think. I would just hesitate to add a potential failure point. Spilled oil on the track can cause serious injuries. Plus the clean up takes a long time.
Anyone had actual experience with these for track use?
Looking at pictures of the Stahlbus, it looks like a spring loaded ball bearing valve is what keeps the oil in (after removing the drain tube), with a safety cap over it. I wonder how all that holds up under the higher speeds/vibrations on the race track? If the ball bearing valve fails or leaks, how leak-proof is the safety cap? These are just the questions I'd ask myself. I have no experience with these drain valves, nor have I seen one in person. But the safety cap looks like it's just finger-tightened?
It looks as though they make a safety cap that can be wired, that would be better for the track, I'd think. I would just hesitate to add a potential failure point. Spilled oil on the track can cause serious injuries. Plus the clean up takes a long time.
Anyone had actual experience with these for track use?
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Yes, the way you described it is exactly how it works. They have two safety caps available, a regular cap and one listed as a "racing" cap, which is pre-drilled for safety wire. There is a rubber O ring between the cap and valve, but it is only finger tightened. Before purchasing it, I too was concerned about possible failure, but I could not find any reports online of there being any failures, but I also wasn't specifically asking about track use either, which is a whole different animal than street riding! I think maybe I should just play it safe and reinstall the regular drain bolt, as you said, why add an extra point of possible failure! Even though I am a TOTAL novice, I was still planning on safety wiring everything.
tdelegram
Control Rider
I would stick with the stock plug and use a safety clip/pin wired to a fixed location, if you have questions or need help wiring let us know and we’ll help you out in the paddock. It would be best if you drill the plug next oil change. Before refilling put the plug in and torque it to the required specs, next mark the sides that are parallel with the bike. Remove and drill the 2 markers sides. Now you’re clocked to the right torque spec and we can run a white and pin for you in the pits.
Motofun352
Control Rider
Another option (and easier) is to buy a pre-drilled drain bolt from pro-bolt.
I guess I will be the black sheep. I had one of those on my old R6 for 5 years, in the exact setup you described, with the racing cap that was pre drilled for safety wire. The inherit design of the drain itself would not let it leak, and the cap having an o ring on it is just double insurance. I have countless miles on the Fumoto drain valves on my current and past cars/trucks (I understand they are different brands and different designs). Really, my only gripe with the drain plug was that you needed that little tool to drain the oil. I am a huge fan of their brake bleeders as well...but that's a different topic.
Just to be devil's advocate, there's nothing explicitly stating in the rider's manual that those types of plugs are not allowed. Like I said, I had that valve for the 5 years I had the bike and not once had any problem at any WERA or any track day org weekend. When properly wired, the cap cannot loosen, therefore the plug itself cannot loosen. Wired is wired.
All that said, I've quickly become a fan of Pro-Bolt's pre drilled drain plugs with the magnetic tip, especially once I got away from the mentality that the oil must be hot when you change it. That was the real benefit to the Stalhbus drain valve, not burning your finger tips. But now that I only change the oil when it's cold or just lukewarm, it's not a problem, and honestly I'd rather have the magnetic plug to catch any possible debris.
If I had it my way, I would not even allow the use of a spring clip for the drain plug (WERA style), regardless of the type of drain plug used.
Just to be devil's advocate, there's nothing explicitly stating in the rider's manual that those types of plugs are not allowed. Like I said, I had that valve for the 5 years I had the bike and not once had any problem at any WERA or any track day org weekend. When properly wired, the cap cannot loosen, therefore the plug itself cannot loosen. Wired is wired.
All that said, I've quickly become a fan of Pro-Bolt's pre drilled drain plugs with the magnetic tip, especially once I got away from the mentality that the oil must be hot when you change it. That was the real benefit to the Stalhbus drain valve, not burning your finger tips. But now that I only change the oil when it's cold or just lukewarm, it's not a problem, and honestly I'd rather have the magnetic plug to catch any possible debris.
If I had it my way, I would not even allow the use of a spring clip for the drain plug (WERA style), regardless of the type of drain plug used.
Backmarker
Control Rider
Funny thing... I passed one of those plugs at Barber this passed weekend.
It was wired correctly and appeared to be a solid item.
It was wired correctly and appeared to be a solid item.
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YoshiHNS
New Member
I have them on a couple bikes with the safety wire cap. Did it just to make changes cleaner/easier. I check it every so often for leaks during the day. Never found any leaks. There is an o-ring on the cap as an extra seal point if anything goes by the ball. After an oil change I will notice a few drops in the cap and wipe it out. Likely just leftover from draining. Cap is dry after a day. Never seen or felt oil get around the outside.
Didn't like the Fumoto valve since it looks like a big target that could get knocked off. The Stahlbus is pretty small.
No real issues sticking to the standard bolt if these get banned.
Didn't like the Fumoto valve since it looks like a big target that could get knocked off. The Stahlbus is pretty small.
No real issues sticking to the standard bolt if these get banned.