Mad Moto Chain Adjusters

wmhjr

Grandpa
Control Rider
Picked up a very nice '15 R1 for track/race duty a few weeks ago. The bike is a really nice ride, with a great deal already done on it, like Ohlins front/rear suspension, etc. The day after I picked it up, I left it in the trailer and took it with my GSXR to the track, hoping to just get a little time on it to get used to the chassis. Planned to keep it to 80% or less that day.

On about my 10th lap on the bike, I came through the apex on the last turn, getting on the gas for the drive through the main straight. Shifting from 2-3, the engine red lined, and I thought I hit a false neutral. Tried tapping the shifter again and another screaming motor as no drive engaged. Threw my arm up, and drifted off the left side of the track.

Discovered that the chain had come off and was (very fortunately) riding on the hub of the wheel, rather than coming off on the outside of the sprocket, hanging up on the end of the swingarm/etc, and locking up the rear wheel at about 100mph. The reason it came off is because the previous owner had installed Mad Moto Chain Adjusters (look like clones of Lightech), and the adjustment bolt had sheared off. Even though the rear axle nut was correctly torqued, the hard throttle from 2-3 had sheared the bolt, and pulled the axle forward in the swingarm, creating massive slack in the chain, and slightly cocking the rear wheel. This pulled the chain off the rear sprocket.

Looking at the failed chain adjuster, you can see that the failed bolt is hollow, and of cheap non-hardened steel. After this happened I did a little research and discovered at least three other published failures exactly like this - all on liter bikes. I certainly don't blame anybody for trying these things out. Everything else on the bike was - and is - of good quality manufacturer. These things "look" like Lightechs. But, looks can certainly be deceiving...

I reached out to the only source I could find of these adjusters (on Ebay) and initially got a response, but after showing sending them the photo, I never heard anything ever again. To be honest, these specific adjusters don't even appear to be available any longer. I'm wondering if given the fact that I've found several other reported instances where these have failed, they've been pulled from sales.IMG_0777.JPG

Based on this, I not only do not recommend these adjusters, but I recommend anybody who has installed these immediately pull them from their bike.
 

npalaciom3

New Member
That’s insane, Bill. Glad this happened how it did and not the alternative result you mentioned. I never like knockoff stuff for this reason, we tend to get what we pay for, right? Glad this didn’t do too much damage in the grand scheme of things and that most importantly, you are ok. See you at the track soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

wmhjr

Grandpa
Control Rider
Nick, I was VERY lucky. The only damage I could find was a couple of very small scratches on the inside back of the swingarm. It could very easily have been a far worse outcome. I'm with you. While I can't blame the previous owner for putting these on, I'm a little more OCD about my equipment and tend to go with top quality stuff only.

Hopefully we'll see you at NCBike on the 11th? It's like an extra surprise in a box of Crackerjack! Thought we were done except for Barber....
 

npalaciom3

New Member
We are planning on Barber. I am a little worried about weather in Alabama at the end of November but I freakin love that track..... Weekend after TG will be a little tricky but want to be there with you guys to get one more in before winter.
 

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
Bill, how would a hollow bolt still have threads on the inside? Is it possible that what I am looking at in the picture is actually a Heli-Coil?
 

wmhjr

Grandpa
Control Rider
Jim, I don't think so. I'll send another pic later, however it appears as though they took some junk quality steel rod, threaded the outside to go into the sliding adjuster that the axle actually goes through, and then drilled and tapped the inside for the rear "bobbin" to attach via what seems to be about a 4mm bolt from the rear. None of it is hardened. I'll take closer pics in the next day or so to show it in more detail

The bad news is that my rear swingarm may have been tweaked. Even without a tire, chain, etc, and without the axle nut on, the rear wheel really doesn't want to slide forward and backward in the swingarm slot. I've tried with two sets of wheels and it's hard to just slide the axle in/out - much less move the wheel. It's not the end of the world, but I am disappointed obviously. Emerson is shipping me a good swingarm tomorrow which I should have in a day or so after. I'll try it with the same wheels, etc but expect it to be "normal". The axle seems to still be straight. I have a Fast Franks underslung rear caliper bracket for it, to make wheel changes just a little easier, but it's this way even with the OEM caliper bracket and the brake rotor removed from the wheel.

Again - very good example of why to never use questionable parts - particularly in critical applications. This is the only "generic" kind of part on the bike when I bought it - and again - not blaming the previous owner. Crap happens. Glad I discovered it now rather than later - though I would have pulled those adjusters off the bike anyway.
 

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
You will love the underslung caliper bracket. I have one as well. You will need to get a new rear brake line. I got mine from CoreMoto where you can pick your length, color and banjos. You will need to bleed the brake line before you mount it to the underslung caliper bracket. It took me a little bit to realize it, but the bleed screw will be on the bottom now instead of the top. Good luck with the new swing arm. Emerson to the rescue again!
 

wmhjr

Grandpa
Control Rider
Yeah, I already talked to Speigler and they're the same way. They're also fast- pretty much next day shipping on a custom line. Just have to tell them how much extra length, etc. I think I might bleed mine "unattached" so I can have the bleeder on the top. I think you removed your ABS, right? I'm keeping it for a bit. That and the unified brakes might make bleeding a little interesting....
 

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
Yeah, I already talked to Speigler and they're the same way. They're also fast- pretty much next day shipping on a custom line. Just have to tell them how much extra length, etc. I think I might bleed mine "unattached" so I can have the bleeder on the top. I think you removed your ABS, right? I'm keeping it for a bit. That and the unified brakes might make bleeding a little interesting....

Yep, ABS was gone before I got it. I still have the wheel speed sensor which mounts to the new bracket. I thought it uses that for the ABS as well, but I could be wrong. Bleed right side up, then mount upside down.
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
One more year of leaking and smoking on my old technology, then we’ll see about the V4 1k pinagale.

You need to get the factory pro shift star kit before you blow up another transmission. Signed...a fellow owner of a bike with known transmission issues...
 

tdelegram

Control Rider
You need to get the factory pro shift star kit before you blow up another transmission. Signed...a fellow owner of a bike with known transmission issues...
I have the last wsb spec transmission that was available in the USA installed so all good.
 

wmhjr

Grandpa
Control Rider
OK, so here is a better description....
MadMoto6.jpg
As you can see in the pic above, the silver assembly on the right has the shaft to through the end of the black carrier in the center, and then there is a plastic retainer, a steel washer, then the "bobbin" screws on the outside threads of the shaft, with the little screw holding the bobbin in place. To the left you see a ball and spring, held in by a set screw with a lock nut.

MadMoto5.jpg
Then here you see the "Bobbin" with the inside threaded, and then that set screw that screws into the inside of the shaft.

MadMoto3.jpg
Here you see the "rod" itself, along with the small "detents" that the spring loaded ball is supposed to "click" on - as well as the threaded end of that rod where the bobbin screws on. The machining on that rod is crude, to put it very mildly, and frankly doesn't seem to be much more than pot metal.

MadMoto4.jpg
Here you can see the inside threaded area of that rod - which is about 2.5mm ID

MadMoto1.jpg
Here you see the "undamaged" right side adjuster next to the damaged left side adjuster. Note that the length of the rod sticking out of the back of the adjuster should never vary, so the differences in how much is extended toward the "bobbin" (bottom in this pic) is how much sheared off.
 

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
Now I can see what I was obviously missing before. Having it next to the "Good" one, makes all the difference.
 
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