question about engine not starting

[tiggen]

The bike in question is an '04 CBR600RR. The bike tumbled coming out of T9 at Jefferson back in May. It started that day, but ever since I have been unable to get it to start. I thought it was the battery, so I charged it. Now all it does is click real fast. What does this mean? (It should go without saying that I am new to mechanical work, so please use small words.) Thanks for your help.

john

 

[Steve]

It sounds like the battery still isn't fully charged? Can you try push starting it? That would eliminate starter issues, if the battery has any charge in it. Believe me, the battery could be toast at this point.

 

[tiggen]

I would try to push start it, but the chain is off (as are the rear sets). I need to get the tires remounted before I put the chain back on (there is grass stuck between the rims and tires). Any other way of eliminating possibilities?

 

[gkotlin]

Be sure all the fuses and relays are still there. I crashed and lost a relay down on the left side under the air intake duct. The bike wouldn't start.

Your bike is fuel injected. Just because the battery turns the ignition on and fuel pump runs, it doesn't mean the battery is good. On rare occassion, the battery will have enough juice to barely crank the engine, but not enough to run the gauge cluster, fuel pump, injectors etc.

Be sure the tip over switch is still connectd and still oriented upward.

 

[tiggen]

Gkotlin,

I charged the battery (and it's only about six months old), so I am pretty sure that is not the problem. The clock on the gauge is on, but the tach needle and neutral light don't work. I am looking on ebay right now for a replacement. (Could this be a fuse? How do you check fuses? Relays?)

Also, I did remount the tip over switch on the new fairing stay. I have unplugged all the lights, so there are a number of loose wires. I wonder if this may be a problem as well. Somebody told me that I might have to clean the spark plugs. Is that really necessary?

I should prob. take it to the shop, but I want to learn how to do this stuff myself (and I don't really have the cash right now). Thanks in advance for the help Gkotlin...and everybody else!

john

 

[barry38]

Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn on the key and kill switch?

 

[tiggen]

I do hear the fuel pump. I think I'm just going to put the chain on and try to push start it. You can take the rear tire off without cutting the chain, correct?

 

[barry38]

Yes. After changing the old battery, will the bike crank at all? Even though it's only 6 months old, doesn't mean it hasn't gone bad. You've checked all the fuses too correct???

 

[speedfree]

batteries are not shock proof

Take it from me. I've had to replace the battery both times I suffered "minor tumbles." Sounds like the battery - at least three other replies here have suggested double-checking the battery. Maybe the battery?

Just a thought...

 

[Quantum_Ape]

Don't know what kind of battery you have, but if it's not a totally sealed battery as most are not, if they get turned upside down the electrolyte can spill out and that can kill the battery or just kill the amperage its capable of producing. Best bet is to take a known good battery and try it as you need to test the old one under a high amp load and thats a bit beyond the scope of this post.

The best way to check fuses is to go out and buy a cheep multimeter with a continuity setting. This usually will make a sound or light or say something on the screen when the two leads are touched together making a decent connection. Use this setting and touch them to the leads of the fuse. If it indicates a connection its good.

The instrument cluster could definitely be affected only by a fuse. I would check them before ordering another. The lights being disconnected shouldn't be a problem but i am not familiar with your model and its caveats so i can't say for sure.

Just my 2 cents

 

[gkotlin]

Sounds like you might want to try a battery Borrow a friends battery. If the bike crashed and one of the cells inside collapsed, it may be shorting internally or doing something goofy.

On the RR. I believe the gauge cluster needs to be connected for the bike to run. I've never tried it without though. Turn the key on. You should hear the fuel pump prime. You should see the gauge cluster light up and the tach needel should cycle and return home. The speedometer counts down to zero. Be sure the tip over switch is oriented upwards! I think it has an arrow on it that points up. Be sure the engine cut off switch is turned to on. Try it on the off position and make sure it's working. Check your side stand switch and make sure it's working. Check the clutch switch and be sure it's working as well. Make sure the bike is in neutral. Don't trust the gauge cluster light for neutral. Verify it! (I feel like I'm teaching MSF) I believe those are the main items that will keep the bike from starting. From here, side stand up, clutch pulled in, bike in first gear, hit the started and it should crank. If it doesn't crank, let us know. Verify that every fuse is installed in the right place and is the right value. Pull each one out and look at it closely to verify it's not blown. Check all the relays. As I mentioned, I lost a relay during a crash. I know there are three down on the left side under the mid fairing. I'm sure there are others. Get your hands on a service manual if you can.

But check each of the items listed above. Seems like a lot of people still think you might have a battery issue, so I'd try that first. You can also PM if you more questions. I have a service manual somewhere that I can reference.

 

[tiggen]

I tried to fire it up yesterday, only two days after putting the fully charged battery back in. There wasn't enough juice to do anything (no fuel pump priming and the clock on the display disappeared when I hit the starter button). Also, there was a sizzling/crackling sound from one of the relays just under the air intake on the left side.

I will try a different battery and also go over the machine with a meter. Thanks for all the help!

john

 

[Quantum_Ape]

tiggen;5830 wrote: I tried to fire it up yesterday, only two days after putting the fully charged battery back in.

Wait, does that mean it was working for those two days you had a fresh battery in? If so you will need to check for current pull while the bike is off. I can help you with that if needed. Also your going to want to check your stator voltage and rectifier/regulator.

Of course this is if it ran fine for those two days with a fresh battery. Definitely check that relay, but that sound could be from low voltage causing it to swing on and off quickly.

 

[Jmurr46]

Pull the spark plugs out and try to turn it over with the starter. BE CAREFUL fluids could shoot out of the spark plug holes. If it laid on it's side for a while the cylinders can fill with fluid causing a hydraulic lock.

 

[tiggen]

Quantum Ape, no, it wasn't working for those two days. It just took two days to drain the battery with the bike off.

Greg, thank you for your help as well. After going back and trying some of things you suggested, I got frustrated and gave up.

I have pulled the trigger and sent it to the shop. After all, that's what credit cards are for, right? No time like the present to get into debt! (Actually, now is prob. not the time.) Thanks for the help guys. I will relay what the tech says if something can be learned from it.

 

[tiggen]

Turned out to be the battery. (Sorry I didn't listen.) All the fuses are good, but the speedo is bad.

Anybody know any good aftermarket speedos? The stock piece is expensive. Am trolling ebay as well.

Also, does anyone know if a 05-06 speedo will work on 03-04? (It's a cbr600rr)

 

[Quantum_Ape]

Hey, at least thats all it is Could be much worse!

 

[lunchmeat]

Get a voltmeter (something you should have anyway), and check the voltage at the battery with the bike off, with the key in the on position, and with the starter button pressed. Let us know the voltage readings you get, this should be able to rule the battery in or out. I have had batteries appear to be fine (giving correct voltage just sitting there) but then die as soon as you hit the starter. They are by far the weakest link in a bike's electrical system.