Question about passing tech

Discussion in 'N2 Paddock Section' started by Aaron Meade, Oct 18, 2019.

  1. Aaron Meade

    Aaron Meade New Member

    My FZ was low-sided by the previous owner without frame sliders (I have since installed). I failed to inspect the bike properly before buying it, and discovered that the minor plasti rash was not the only damage. The stator cover came into contact with the asphalt (either the cover was replaced, or steps were taken to repair the damage, it does not look like it has been down) and actually cracked at one of the bolts that contacts the case. It turned out that when that happened, the stator was jostled enough that a coil contacted the magneto and broke. I discovered all of this after riding the bike for awhile and uncovering poor charging condition when running the high-beam for long periods. I ended up replacing the reg/rec, stator, and magneto. My mechanic built up the cracked area on the case with some JB weld. There wasn't a hole in the case, but the interface with the stator cover bolt was cracked. The bike runs perfectly, and does not leak any oil that I can see, but on inspection looks a little suspect with visible JB weld on the bottom of the case.

    I've thought about adding a bellypan, but the last thing I want to do is appear as though I am hiding a potential issue with the bike. Thoughts on passing tech inspection and taking this bike on the track?
     
  2. tdelegram

    tdelegram Control Rider

    If it’s not leaking it shouldn’t be an issue. Adding a belly pan is a good idea in general, they are designed to catch fluids up to and including a catastrophic failure. It also helps keep you from running that leaking fluid over and crashing as well as minimizing the chances of oiling down a 3 mile circuit which take 2 to 3 hours of track time to clean up. While N2 doesn’t have a belly pan requirement all racing orgs do.
     
  3. Aaron Meade

    Aaron Meade New Member

    Yeah, I'll be looking for a good belly pan that is actually functional. Some of them are just cowls and not actually pans.
     
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  4. Dom17

    Dom17 Intermediate Intermediate

    I agree with Tom, a belly pan saved my life when my heat exchanger blew. Came back to the pits with a belly pan full of oil and coolant.

    Is it just your case cover? You can replace them with used ones from eBay cheap some times. If you want. Id certainly take the bike to the track if it's been through a few heat cycles and there isn't any weepage.

    JB weld is great stuff. You'll find it on quite a few bikes that have been down.

    Some people even use a turkey roasting pan inside the bottom of their lower fairings as a oil/coolant catch pan if you can't find racing fiberglass for the bike.



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  5. bmart

    bmart Control Rider

    Really? I've not heard of that one. How is it secured?

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Aaron Meade

    Aaron Meade New Member

    On further inspection, I believe it does weep a tiny bit. I cleaned the bottom the engine where the stator cover meats the case then rode for a few hours. Checked it again, and there was a film of new oil on the outside in the jb welded spot. It has never dripped that I have seen. I put a piece of printer paper under the bike for 3 days while it was parked.

    I don’t think I’ll mess with any turkey pans. I’m disappointed in myself for buying it with this issue, but it’s a great bike in all other regards. I’ll ride it on street for a long time.
    IMG_1159.JPG



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  7. Dom17

    Dom17 Intermediate Intermediate

    Post a close up photo of the damaged areas. If it's just a case cover don't let that get in the way of you getting to the track.

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  8. HondaGalToo

    HondaGalToo Control Rider

    Agreed about pix. Is it the stator cover that is cracked? Or is it the engine case that's cracked. If the former, replace the stator cover. If it's the engine casing itself, then yeah, leaking there isn't good as far as bringing it to the track, unless it can be repaired better to stop the weeping? Pix would help.
     
  9. Aaron Meade

    Aaron Meade New Member

    IMG_1474.JPG

    The closeup from underneath was taken before I wiped the area clean, and a drop of oil can be seen where it has collected over a 24hr period. I check my oil obsessively and it has not needed any in the two months since the last change.

    The problem area is where the cover interfaces with the case, bug I can’t tell which side is damaged. Maybe this winter I’ll take the cover off myself and see if I can do a better job of sealing it up.


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  10. Aaron Meade

    Aaron Meade New Member

    Also I am pretty sure it only leaks when it sits while cooling down. It hasn’t dripped any oil after days of not being ridden.


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  11. Motofun352

    Motofun352 Control Rider

    It could be as simple as using a new gasket and tightening properly. Of course cleaning the old JP weld will be a PIA. If you take it apart, in addition to checking for cracks, make sure the surface is flat and not bent due to over torquing. Setting it on a piece of window glass is usually a good enough flat surface.
     
  12. Dom17

    Dom17 Intermediate Intermediate

    I wonder what was originally damaged since that is right where the gasket goes. Parts for that bike are cheap, I found a replacement cover for 15$ and change. (I think it's for your bike)

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/333280228035

    What an odd place for the damage to happen. If it was the cover that cracked you could replace it inexpensively. I hope it wasn't the engine.

    Edit: looks like it is the engine that was cracked unfortunately based on that gob of jb that is near the top.
     
  13. Aaron Meade

    Aaron Meade New Member

    I think it is the engine. I may look into having it welded. I’m already under water on this bike, but it has many years left in it with only 5000 miles on the clock.




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  14. Otto Man

    Otto Man John Control Rider

    Aaron, props to you for having more attention to detail with your bike than most street riders I know! It may seem like a big daunting issue, but from the looks of it, it doesn't seem to be all that terrible. There have been far worse cases (pun intended) out there!

    I second what others have said - hard to see or know what all is cracked with the JB weld covering it. You'll have to disassemble and clean it up and figure out what exactly is wrong, and go from there. Thankfully, it doesn't appear to be a huge deal breaker. No optimal, for sure, but nothing bad, and nothing that would keep you from running it at a track day later on if you wanted to, once it's sorted.
     
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  15. Aaron Meade

    Aaron Meade New Member

    Thanks. I emailed my mechanic last night and asked him what he thought about reparing it permanently. We're going to look into it over the winter.
     
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