R1 into track bike?
- Thread starter daddyo
- Start date
PJZOCC624
New Member
Just kidding.... if you're looking to save $$$ try ebay/NESBA bbs/WERA.COM bbs for some used track plastics. New cheapo sets you can get for ~$350$-400, midrange ~$600. Check Armourbodies (NESBA sponsor). Good stuff + NESBA discount. Gonna need a fairing stay, Vortex, probably ~$150
As far as improvements, go with some steel braided brake lines, Vesrah brake pads up front (don't waste the $$ on lines/pads for your rear brake) to upgrade over stock. This might cost you ~$150.
Next, some good rubber!!! Pirelli Diablo Corsa IIIs (see parts@nesba.com for prices) or Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs (my personal favorites). A set of either should run around $275-$325 depending on your source.
Outside of that, if it's an '08, you're really not gonna need to do much else until you get some track time on it. The next step is suspension, but wait till you get to the "I" group before dropping those $$s.
Oh yeah.... don't forget all the equipment to protect yourself!
Don't cheap out on safety gear!!! Make sure your helmet has been properly fitted!!! Get a back and chest protector, a GOOD set of gloves (don't get that ICON crap, b/c it IS crap), and boots. Leathers are BIG $$$, buck thankfully NESBA rents those at the track (reserve those in advance when you book your track day)
Relax, have fun, ask lots of questions, have fun, be safe, have fun, bring an open mind, and HAVE FUN!
Good times....
As far as improvements, go with some steel braided brake lines, Vesrah brake pads up front (don't waste the $$ on lines/pads for your rear brake) to upgrade over stock. This might cost you ~$150.
Next, some good rubber!!! Pirelli Diablo Corsa IIIs (see parts@nesba.com for prices) or Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs (my personal favorites). A set of either should run around $275-$325 depending on your source.
Outside of that, if it's an '08, you're really not gonna need to do much else until you get some track time on it. The next step is suspension, but wait till you get to the "I" group before dropping those $$s.
Oh yeah.... don't forget all the equipment to protect yourself!
Don't cheap out on safety gear!!! Make sure your helmet has been properly fitted!!! Get a back and chest protector, a GOOD set of gloves (don't get that ICON crap, b/c it IS crap), and boots. Leathers are BIG $$$, buck thankfully NESBA rents those at the track (reserve those in advance when you book your track day)
Relax, have fun, ask lots of questions, have fun, be safe, have fun, bring an open mind, and HAVE FUN!
Good times....
PJZOCC624
New Member
both.
I had an 04 CBR1000RR. The stock brakes were great.... for the street. Remember, on a 1000, the engine size creates more momentum due to its spinning mass, and it creates alot more work on the brakes at track speeds. My brakes would be mush halfway into a day, and if it was hot/humid, I'd be pinching my fingers midway into the first session with the brake lever.
It's a matter of maintaining CONSISTENT brake feel and performance. I'm sure the stock brakes are fine, but the rubber lines will flex get squishy as the laps go by and the temperature goes up. You don't get that flex with steel lines. You don't want your brakes turning into EasyCheeze at the end of the straight, at say SummitMain or Beaverun.
Hopefully, others will chime in and confirm this for you/me. But you start with your brakes, then suspension, then exhaust, then motor.
I had an 04 CBR1000RR. The stock brakes were great.... for the street. Remember, on a 1000, the engine size creates more momentum due to its spinning mass, and it creates alot more work on the brakes at track speeds. My brakes would be mush halfway into a day, and if it was hot/humid, I'd be pinching my fingers midway into the first session with the brake lever.
It's a matter of maintaining CONSISTENT brake feel and performance. I'm sure the stock brakes are fine, but the rubber lines will flex get squishy as the laps go by and the temperature goes up. You don't get that flex with steel lines. You don't want your brakes turning into EasyCheeze at the end of the straight, at say SummitMain or Beaverun.
Hopefully, others will chime in and confirm this for you/me. But you start with your brakes, then suspension, then exhaust, then motor.
dlockhart5x
New Member
Sell the 08 R1 and buy a tracked out SV650 with all the goodies. Use the other $6000 for trackdays and schools. You will learn more, sooner on a "small" bike. By the time you blow through $6k worth of NESBA days you should be a SV jedi master and rocking in A group.
Hint. You have to bust a$$ to make it to A on a SV or other lightweight ,but it can be done.
JGardy_781
Member
I'd second this, but after doing yeoman work on an SV into midpack "I", I "cheated" by up-spec'ing to a 750... Nonetheless, the experience on the SV at using cornerspeed and being able to make use of different lines will serve you better than a similar amount of time on a liter bike will.
ta2kutz
New Member
upgrade the brakes and rubber. then strip the lights and mirrors. dont bother with the plastics till you need them. why dish outt the money if the ones on it are in goos shape..........unless you find someone looking for stock plastics and you could sell your stockers and buy the armorbodies and be out no money.
oh yeah frame sliders also
oh yeah frame sliders also
Meat
Member
If it is your first time on the track, you probably already have street/track tires on your bike and your brakes may feel a bit squishy, but you may not actually push them past their limit on your first few times at the track.
My first 4 track days were on a BMW K1200S and the brakes were never an issue. That said, I do fully agree that upgraded pads and brakes lines are the first things you need to upgrade.
Just bring blue painters tape, good riding gear and a buddy and have a blast on the track.
And of course an SV650 would be tremendously cheaper to start, and you won't be as bummed if you crash it like you will crashing an 08 R1.
My first 4 track days were on a BMW K1200S and the brakes were never an issue. That said, I do fully agree that upgraded pads and brakes lines are the first things you need to upgrade.
Just bring blue painters tape, good riding gear and a buddy and have a blast on the track.
And of course an SV650 would be tremendously cheaper to start, and you won't be as bummed if you crash it like you will crashing an 08 R1.
daddyo
I bought a 07 R1 and put it on the track. Congratulations on your purchase, you will not be disappointed. The R1 is awesome right out of the crate.
The first thing to do is get some track bodywork for it....Save the street plastics as they are expensive. Then put some good race tires on it. The next thing to do is RIDE it! That's it!
As you progress and advance in track days you can start doing the other mods. I would next look for a ohlins steering dampner as the stock one isn't that good, then brake lines, then suspension, then if you want more, rear sets, exhausts, PC, in that order....
If you have any questions I'll be glad to help....
Jeff
I bought a 07 R1 and put it on the track. Congratulations on your purchase, you will not be disappointed. The R1 is awesome right out of the crate.
The first thing to do is get some track bodywork for it....Save the street plastics as they are expensive. Then put some good race tires on it. The next thing to do is RIDE it! That's it!
As you progress and advance in track days you can start doing the other mods. I would next look for a ohlins steering dampner as the stock one isn't that good, then brake lines, then suspension, then if you want more, rear sets, exhausts, PC, in that order....
If you have any questions I'll be glad to help....
Jeff
dlockhart5x
New Member
08 R1, trackbike, and budget. 1 of the 3 things don't go together.
Jeff is absolutely correct, any of the modern Liter bikes offer unbelievable performance, right off the showroom. This past weekend I watched Jensen set new lap records at Blackhawk on his R1 and R6. Interesting to note that with all his tallent, he was less than 1 second faster on the R1
The point I was getting at is a new literbike has a high upfront cost and high operating expenses. All that performance uses lots of fuel and lots and lots of tires. (not including any budget for mishaps)
budget example.
My brother's SV cost him less than $3k, typically uses less than 10 gallons of fuel per weekend, and used 1 set of Pirelli slicks for 20 days last year, and has taken him from B to A over the past 3 years.
The low capital investment allows us to travel and spend our $ over a long season, at many tracks with our NESBA friends. :cheers:
Jeff is absolutely correct, any of the modern Liter bikes offer unbelievable performance, right off the showroom. This past weekend I watched Jensen set new lap records at Blackhawk on his R1 and R6. Interesting to note that with all his tallent, he was less than 1 second faster on the R1
The point I was getting at is a new literbike has a high upfront cost and high operating expenses. All that performance uses lots of fuel and lots and lots of tires. (not including any budget for mishaps)
budget example.
My brother's SV cost him less than $3k, typically uses less than 10 gallons of fuel per weekend, and used 1 set of Pirelli slicks for 20 days last year, and has taken him from B to A over the past 3 years.
The low capital investment allows us to travel and spend our $ over a long season, at many tracks with our NESBA friends. :cheers: