03bueller;299786 wrote: Are you refering to when they dyno in steps( certain throttle % and hold for 10 sec)? As opposed to a roll on all the way up?
And if I should care about what dyno is used are there certain things I should be looking for?
I'm not looking for max hp, if I wanted more power I'd get a bigger bike, I do want a little bit better torque curve to move my fat ass around the track. If I have to sacrifice some top end to get there then so be it.
you have ro: roll on tuning, and steady state tuning
roll on would be considered coming out of t2, t3,t8,t10 at summit point, steady state would be considered t6,through t7.
Road A, steady state would be t3 "old config" or the current chicane and t7 and the old t12.
each of them yield a completely difference fuel curve believe it or not.
step tests can be used in tuning but it's not ideal, even the best tuners can take up to 20-30 seconds to tune 1 cell.
A properly set up dyno would have the eddy current load control, without that it's very hard to "properly" tune a bike. dynojet has a 200, 200I that do not have load control. True fine tuning is very hard to do and would take some serious time to achieve what the Factory Pro, Dj 250 and 250I, also I must include the New Dyno By bazzz can with a load cell. I can hold a bike at 3000 Rpms at full throttle all day long.
I can also do steady state tuning up to 6k, have an af ratio of 12.8-13.0 and then come back and start a roll on at 3000 and the air fuel is completely different. Not to mention trying to prevent hard on/off throttle transitions. anyone with a 04-05 Gsxr 750 can possibly remember the hard on off throttle hit on a corner scaring the crap out of you. It takes a understanding of road racing to tune those bikes, if you don't have that knowledge you customer will doing the R&D for you so that you do understand it. That R&D will be come backs and multiple complaints.
I'll come back with some visuals so you can see what im tlking about but have to run around for a few. hope this little bit helps.