Long term bike storage???

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
I only get to the track for one full weekend a year or maybe two weekends if I’m lucky. I used my FZ6 until this last year when I began using a track only CBR600RR. Storage was never an issue with the FZ6 because I ride it to school 5 days a week and every weekend during the summer when teaching a MSF course.

Current storage method for the CBR600RR is as follows.
I run non ethanol gas, so I top off the tank and treat it with the correct amount of stabil gas treatment. I run the engine long enough to treat the entire fuel system. I check all other fluids, put the bike up on front and rear stands, disconnect the battery and I steal tires from it to put on my FZ6. I will put on new tires a week or 2 before I leave for the track. I put a piece of cardboard underneath the bike to see if it drips during storage and perform any necessary maintenance. This way I’m as ready as can be when the time comes to get my fix at the track.

So the question are, is this the best way to store a bike for approximately a year?
Can I do something better?
 

Motofun352

Control Rider
I wouldn't leave old oil in it for a year, so change the oil prior to storage. Also, where exactly is the storage? Best is inside in a relatively dry place. One time I had to store a bike in my barn for the winter. I put a heavy insulated blanket over it and ran a 40 watt light bulb underneath just to help keep condensation away...it worked OK but wasn't the best. Also, jack the bike up off the tires if possible or over pressurize the tires if not. Almost forgot, dump the water and replace with antifreeze if you started out with water and it's not a heated space.
 

Motofun352

Control Rider
But is it better to leave the battery on a tender for a year or just charge it the week before?
There's all kinds of "tenders" from official Battery Tender to simple trickle chargers. Battery Tenders are more expensive but have more features including a maintain (float) feature. If your battery is a regular lead acid type it pays to check the water level every so often, even with a BT. I leave my 10 or so batteries on the Battery Tenders all winter long but I do check them. On a few occasions I have had to add a little demin water. Pull the battery out of the bike and store it inside...freezing is not good for them. If you have the Lithium type than that's a whole 'nother story.
Lead acid batteries don't like to be totally discharged so keep it charged.
 

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
I wouldn't leave old oil in it for a year, so change the oil prior to storage. Also, where exactly is the storage? Best is inside in a relatively dry place. One time I had to store a bike in my barn for the winter. I put a heavy insulated blanket over it and ran a 40 watt light bulb underneath just to help keep condensation away...it worked OK but wasn't the best. Also, jack the bike up off the tires if possible or over pressurize the tires if not. Almost forgot, dump the water and replace with antifreeze if you started out with water and it's not a heated space.
I always change the oil at the end of the “season” even if I ride only two days. I store the bike in an enclosed trailer on stands. It has to be on stands because I take the tires off and use the track tires on my commuter bike. I run antifreeze, so no worries there.
 

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
There's all kinds of "tenders" from official Battery Tender to simple trickle chargers. Battery Tenders are more expensive but have more features including a maintain (float) feature. If your battery is a regular lead acid type it pays to check the water level every so often, even with a BT. I leave my 10 or so batteries on the Battery Tenders all winter long but I do check them. On a few occasions I have had to add a little demin water. Pull the battery out of the bike and store it inside...freezing is not good for them. If you have the Lithium type than that's a whole 'nother story.
Lead acid batteries don't like to be totally discharged so keep it charged.
That brings up another question. Do you think a Lithium battery would serve me better or a regular lead acid battery hooked up to a Battery Tender that has a float feature?
 

bmart

Control Rider
Either would work fine. Lithium will hold a charge much longer but a traditional battery on a tender will work just fine. I have both.

Please save your oil for me; you could save me some $! lol I've sent mine off to be tested in all of my vehicles and learned that "everyone" changes it very prematurely (to be safe, but not based on any facts). Have you considered having it tested?
 

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
Either would work fine. Lithium will hold a charge much longer but a traditional battery on a tender will work just fine. I have both.

Please save your oil for me; you could save me some $! lol I've sent mine off to be tested in all of my vehicles and learned that "everyone" changes it very prematurely (to be safe, but not based on any facts). Have you considered having it tested?
No I haven’t ever thought of having it tested. I would be very interested in the results. I have read that as oil is used it will become mildly acidic. I also have grown up with and continue to live by the expression “grease is cheap, parts aren’t”. Between all my equipment and vehicles I change about a dozen quarts of oil weekly during the growing season.
 

Motofun352

Control Rider
Truth be told, I have extended my run time on oil. I used to change after 2 days on the track. I now go 4 or 5 days. I do replace as part of my winter prep. Could I go longer? Probably, but when I drain after 5 days it's black so I'm OK at that point. You would think with a science degree I'd be more curious! :laugh:
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
That brings up another question. Do you think a Lithium battery would serve me better or a regular lead acid battery hooked up to a Battery Tender that has a float feature?

A regular lead acid battery with a float/pulsator charge feature would be more tolerant to cold temps and prolonged storage.
 

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
I’m going to purchase a Battery Tender. Any recommendations on what model of Battery Tender would work best for someone keeping a battery on standby for a year or more.
 

djhurayt

Member
Even with a Battery Tender brand tender I would put the thing on a timer for long term storage. I have toasted more batteries by leaving them on the tender 24/7 than I have worn out via years of use. The timer only need to cycle on a few hours once a week or so. Just my opinion and experience.
 

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
Even with a Battery Tender brand tender I would put the thing on a timer for long term storage. I have toasted more batteries by leaving them on the tender 24/7 than I have worn out via years of use. The timer only need to cycle on a few hours once a week or so. Just my opinion and experience.
I thought that what the “float” thing was for? So it could be left on the Tender constantly.
 

bmart

Control Rider
I thought that what the “float” thing was for? So it could be left on the Tender constantly.
I've never had battery issues and I leave mine on. Have for many years. They go to a maintenance charge when fully charged.
 

djhurayt

Member
Not sure what happened, but on a couple of occasions a battery has been found completely dry after being on for a long (months and months) period of time. I know shame on me for letting motorcycle sit for so long. But none-the-less, the battery really only need a few hours every few weeks to keep it topped up.
Now if we really want to go all economical analysis on the subject: What is the power consumption of a tender on float 24/7 vs. the cost to run a timer 24/7 and the tender 2 hrs every other week???
 
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