WD40 on my front tire - is it done?

[joe3530]

Gonna sound real dumb asking this here but I'm curious what people have to say...

I was spraying some bolts that wouldn't come out in my lower triple area while putting on stainless brake lines with WD40. I unfortunately ignored (due to poor garage lighting) that it dropped down onto my front tire (quite a bit of it) and it sat there overnight on it. I was appalled at how much it had been there.

I scrubbed it with a rag and brake clean yesterday after I noticed and it doesnt seem "slippery" but it feels much softer. I know WD40 isn't exactly a silicone based lubricant like ArmorAll and it's not antifreeze or engine oil but there is still some light oil in there right?

RS10's ...damn near new

Are they done? I really only intend to use these for track. Just wondering if anyone has prior experience with this sort of thing...

 

[tdelegram]

If am am recalling correctly, wd40 is mostly kerosene. Me personally I would go out at a slow pace and feel it out, I don’t think the rubber would absorb too deep and it might just need the surface scrubbed in. Conversely, if it’s going to be in your head and shake your confidence regardless of feel, just change it. No one gets into track days or racing to save money.

 

[bmart]

I'd run them! Can you run it around the neighborhood then have a look? Rubber isn't very absorbant.

 

[Motofun352]

Take the first 2 laps at a reasonable pace to get the tire hot before any "pushing". You want to do this the first session of the day anyways so I wouldn't sweat it.

 

[joe3530]

Unfortunately it’s crashed (that’s why I’m replacing) and after finishing the lines my front lever goes to bars after holding it 5-7 seconds so I am assuming the front master is most likely junk?

Guess that’s what I get for riding with a different track org

 

[Mike:p]

Rebleed the brakes again and make sure everything is tightened to the proper torque, bleed valves closed, etc...before you decide that the master cylinder is junk.
As for the tires you have two options run them or sell them. If you have any doubts about keeping them you should contact the tire vendor at your next track day and order a new front. Do like Brad and Jack said run them but take it easy the first 2 laps. If you feel the tire is fine just leave it on, buy the front front the vendor and keep it for when you are done with the WD40 front. If the tire is causing you to lose ANY amount of focus get the new tire put on and sell the WD40 tire, I’m sure someone will buy it, just be honest with why you’re selling it. You will be out a couple bucks either way and like Tom said no one gets into track riding to save money. The little bit of money you will be out is only wasted if you didn’t learn a lesson.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[joe3530]

Appreciate the responses. Note the feel in the lever is exactly the same as it was right after the crash
(Bike flipped quite spectacularly and landed upside down) I noticed as I was loading it. I was hoping a banjo nut got bent or something but I can’t possibly imagine the calipers being bad and rolling it forward or backward doesn’t change anything (I haven’t proved the rotors arent warped but that’s a separate issue)

I’ll save the details on the crash for the next N2 event I attend in person

 

[bmart]

Definitely get the braking sorted before riding it. Under no circumstances should the lever go to the bar.

As I'm sure that you know, it is a simple hydraulic system. The piston in the mater pushed a column of fluid which in turn pushes the pistons it toward the rotor. If you're working on it yourself, post up here if you need guidance.

 

[tdelegram]

You should be able to get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder fairly cheap or find a used one somewhere but as Brad stated, do not ride it without the brakes being perfect. You’ll need some circlip pliers to do the job and it shouldn’t take more than an hour.

 

[bmart]

Unless something was damaged physically, a rebuild ins't likely necessary unless it is a very old bike that was not maintained. You likely have air in the line, a dirty piston that isn't freely moving, or something similar.

 

[joe3530]

The front reservoir was bent sideways due to the flip. I’m assuming it took some kind of blunt impact somewhere and blew it up. I don’t see how a caliper could be damaged from that as I don’t see any marks on them (note the brake lever was fine too) but who knows...I have an OEM used MC coming my way. Hope that does the trick

 

[bmart]

It sounds like you're on it. Where are you located?

 

[joe3530]

Still up in NH. Was gonna try make Pitt race 6/6 and 6/7 but I’m not gonna sign up til I’m confident bikes solid

 

[MrFrzz]

I got WD40 on the side of my street bike's rear tire and it sent me up the road.... Stupid mistake on my part. After that, I cleaned the tire, scrubbed with soap and water, let it dry thoroughly, and gingerly rode it after that, but didnt feel any more slips.

As stated above, Take it easy, let it warm up and ease into it. see how it feels by the 3rd session. If you're still questioning it, I'd just finish the day and stay off pace and really focus on whatever you're working on for that particular session. Take everything home in one piece, and then change it. Better to eliminate the "doubt whispers" in your head before they get too out of hand.

just my .02

 

[joe3530]

Tires felt ok on a test ride (1-2 miles up the street) after a new OEM master put in. Fortunately my brakes feel fine and much improved since my Speigler line kit upgrade.

Still smokes a bit once I started actually moving. I guess I'll have to ride it a bit more to burn it off...I don't think the track marshals will be too pleased seeing a smoking bike in the lineup that reeks of burnt oil. I do still have a cat in the exhaust (getting a full system this winter) and I am a bit worried its not going to burn off

 

[Otto Man]

Tires felt ok on a test ride (1-2 miles up the street) after a new OEM master put in. Fortunately my brakes feel fine and much improved since my Speigler line kit upgrade.

Still smokes a bit once I started actually moving. I guess I'll have to ride it a bit more to burn it off...I don't think the track marshals will be too pleased seeing a smoking bike in the lineup that reeks of burnt oil. I do still have a cat in the exhaust (getting a full system this winter) and I am a bit worried its not going to burn off

If the oil is in the exhaust, and you're 100% certain it's from that and not dripping onto the headers, it'll take a good bit of run time to get the cat hot enough to burn off the crud in it, at least 15-20 minutes. It won't all burn off just getting it up to temp for a minute or so.

 

[joe3530]

Definitely in the exhaust itself and not dropping onto headers. I'll put my plastics back on and ride it a bit more perhaps up and down the highway

I had it on a lift and under a light and inspected it pretty thoroughly for leaks with a very knowledgeable helping hand. I was also told to re-check the airbox after running it in to see if any more oil magically appeared.