CBR Keyless ignition

tittys04

tittys04

Member
After flipping the bike last year and bending my key pretty good, I finally decided to go with a keyless set up. I've done some digging and can't find exactly what I'm looking for, although I have gotten some idea as to what I need.

I initially thought I would be able to just connect a toggle to 2 wires and be done with it, but my 600rr has a little pink wire, that in the diagram, shows it going to the ecm, but tells me no other info about it.

I've been seeing people say something about a 100ohm resistor, but I'm not exactly clear on what needs to be done. I know the red and red/black wire are the 2 that will get connected by the switch, but what exactly do I need to do with this pink one? Is 100ohm the correct value? Do I connect the other end of the resistor to a ground, or to one of the power wires? Thanks for your help guys.
 
Matt

Matt

New Member
my 05 600rr didn't require a resistor. I installed a 2nd switch on the left handlebar that just connected the two big red wires that were by the top front of the frame near all the relays that sat on the ram air duct.

what year do you have?
 
tittys04

tittys04

Member
it's an '03.

I've been reading from a few places that this little pink wire is an anti theft thing. Rather than the ECM getting 12v, this little guy sends a ~9ish volt signal telling the ECM that it's not being hotwired. The problem is I'm not sure what kind of current flows through this wire, so I don't have a good idea of what resistance to use to drop that voltage.

If need be, I can measure everything with my fluke, but I was hoping someone knew so I didn't have to go through all of that.
 
B

booboo1

New Member
I'm in on this too. I have an 04 track only and would like to go keyless. Can we get a good right up?
 
Meat

Meat

Member
That is what I had on my 05 zx-6r going to my ECU. I also measured the resistance across the ignition and I registered around 100 ohms. So, I put a 100 ohm resister in my full 12V line and got the ~9V that I needed.

When I tore my ignition out and tore the cover off the back side of the ignition I could actually see a resister.
 
tittys04

tittys04

Member
booboo1;171711 wrote: I'm in on this too. I have an 04 track only and would like to go keyless. Can we get a good right up?
Click to expand...
I will do my best, but I can't add any pictures because of restrictions at work...

Like Meat said, that pink wire needs a ~9v signal. This 9v tells the ECM that the bike isn't just being hotwired, which is exactly what we are doing, but we have to trick the ECM into thinking we're not.

For Honda CBR600RR (03-06), and probably some of the 1000rr's, there are three wires bundled into 1 harness. The red is a constant 12v from the battery. The red w/black stripe is where that 12v goes when the ignition is turned on. When the iginition is off, there is no voltage reading at it. Then there is that pink wire. Like I said, it's an anti-theft device that requires a 9v signal sent to the ECM.

To achieve this 9v, you need to solder in about 1.3 kOhms of resistance from the red/black wire into the pink wire. I haven't completely finished yet (but I have tested that this works), but what I am going to do is make my own wire harness from the factory harness to my new switch. To plug into the factory harness, you will need 3 male spade connectors, and however much wire is required to run your harness from there to your designated mounting point. You will also need 2 female spade connectors to connect to your toggle switch (or maybe 3 if you get a switch with an LED in it, that will require a ground for that LED to work, which is what I used). You will need to crimp 2 wires into the male spade that connects into the red/black wire. One will go directly to the new switch, and the other will get a resistor soldered to it. After soldering your resistor to this wire, you will then need another short piece of wire on the other side of the resistor. once this is all soldered, you can cover this wire with heat-shrink wrap, of electrical tape, and then install a male spade connector to the end of this wire (the one with the resistor soldered into). Connect this wire to the pink wire in the harness. The last thing you need to do is create one more pigtail from the red wire at the harness, to the new switch. This will require a male spade at the harness and a female at the new switch. Once everything is hooked up and you have properly mounted your switch in you desired location, you can turn on the switch and listen to the sweet sound of that fuel pump beginning to work

:eek: :D

One thing I forgot to mention. You can use whatever resistors you can find to make this work, as long as the total resistance is around 1.3 kOhms. I used 3 470 Ohm resistors connected in series. You can probably get away with just using one 1 kOhm resistor as well. Whatever works! ;)
 
tittys04

tittys04

Member
Meat;171774 wrote: That is what I had on my 05 zx-6r going to my ECU. I also measured the resistance across the ignition and I registered around 100 ohms. So, I put a 100 ohm resister in my full 12V line and got the ~9V that I needed.

When I tore my ignition out and tore the cover off the back side of the ignition I could actually see a resister.
Click to expand...
You know, I tried measuring the resistance across the switch, and I got something ridiculous like 1.2 MOhms. needless to say this was incorrect. I tried it... I thought what the hell. When I did, I got like .4V at the pink wire. I don't know why or what caused it, but it wasn't that easy for me.
 
tittys04

tittys04

Member
matt, did you completely remove the ignition, or just splice into it and put in a new switch?

It's possible that I'm wrong about the 05-06 years, but I could have swore that mostly everything electrical was the same on those bikes. :dunno:
 
Matt

Matt

New Member
There was a two wire connector just to the left of the steering stem near the frame. Had larger gauge wires, i think both were red. Yes, I removed the key cylinder completely and didn't have to do anything even remotely creative with the wiring.

jump those two together and it's like turning on the key. One always has 12+V if you use a meter and go to the battery negative. just connect the two and the bike is key on.
 
tittys04

tittys04

Member
yeah, I guess 05-06 is different then. Mine was a 3 wire connector. 2 were larger guage, and the remaining pink one was a smaller gauge.

I guess some of us just get luckier than others ;)
 
B

booboo1

New Member
Great, thanks a ton. new project. I wish there:dunno: were pics but I think I can follow it. I have no manual or wiring diagrams but how hard can it be.? I have a meter and a soldering iron. Not sure where I'm gonna mount the switch. Part of the fun. Anyway, I may wait till after roebling with stt. Just in case.
 
Meat

Meat

Member
tittys04;171792 wrote: You know, I tried measuring the resistance across the switch, and I got something ridiculous like 1.2 MOhms. needless to say this was incorrect. I tried it... I thought what the hell. When I did, I got like .4V at the pink wire. I don't know why or what caused it, but it wasn't that easy for me.
Click to expand...
Eric,

Sorry that I didn't explain better. I meant that I measured the resistance across the resister in the ignition switch. I could barely get my probes in to test it. I am guessing that if I knew anything about resisters that I could have told how much resistance it had just by looking at it. But I know nothing about electricity except that it hurts when you lick a 220V household outlet.
 
tittys04

tittys04

Member
Meat;171906 wrote: Eric,

Sorry that I didn't explain better. I meant that I measured the resistance across the resister in the ignition switch. I could barely get my probes in to test it. I am guessing that if I knew anything about resisters that I could have told how much resistance it had just by looking at it. But I know nothing about electricity except that it hurts when you lick a 220V household outlet.
Click to expand...
HAHA. Well... I didn't take apart my ignition because I didn't have a small enough torx to get into it. My thinking was I would measure the resistance between the pink wire and the red/black (meaning the wire that isn't a constant 12v). (Measuring between the pink and either red wire gave me the same amount of resistance) But measuring that resistance, like I said, gave me something like 1.2 Mohms. When I hooked that resistance value up into the new switch circuit... it only gave me like .4V at the pink wire so I knew that wasn't correct.

Long story short, I don't know why measuring that didn't give me what I needed, but in the end I got the right voltage, so it works. There must be something else going on in that ignition switch...
 
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