Enclosed Trailer

Kurt_Orban

Member
I know this is ride share but hear me out. Those if you that ride share I'm sure are towing big enclosed trailers so I have a question for all you 1/2 ton pick up drivers.

I have a 2010 F150 crew cab with the 3.55 gears and I'm looking at anything up to 7x16 for going to the track. I've been hemming and hawing between a 6x12 for me plus 1 other all the way up to a 7x16.

My primary concern is gas mileage and basically having too much trailer for what I need (more than likely by myself) going to a ton if trackdays this summer. I think the F150 can handle up to a 7x16, but I don't wanna kill it either.

I've looked at a lot if sites but it's lawn mowers and cars and stuff, and figure since we all pretty much pack the same stuff into a trailer, you all might have some good advice for me before I go out and get a trailer.

I'm looking at getting the trailer frame steel with leaf springs and a 6'6" ceiling with .30 sheathing on the outside. I'm talking to Pro-line in Roanoke, and All Pro (covered wagon trailer) in PA, as well as Diamond Cargo Outlet down in Georgia. Thanks again for any advice you can offer.

Kurt

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Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
Height of the trailer is the factor that will reduce gas mileage more than any other factor. V-nose will help, but not as much as you would think. I have a 7X14, dual axle, flat front trailer and it pulls easier than the 6x10, single axle, v-nose I had before it. The difference was the height. The 6x10 was 6'6" I believe. The 7x14 has plenty of room for two bikes, tool boxes and installed shelving. I can fit three bikes, but I have to pull out the roll-out toolbox. The added room of a v-nose would probably allow a third bike easily, but the shelving situation would be much different. If I had to do it all over, I'd get the 7x16 or 7x18 v-nose or even one that is 8' wide.
 

Kurt_Orban

Member
Height of the trailer is the factor that will reduce gas mileage more than any other factor. V-nose will help, but not as much as you would think. I have a 7X14, dual axle, flat front trailer and it pulls easier than the 6x10, single axle, v-nose I had before it. The difference was the height. The 6x10 was 6'6" I believe. The 7x14 has plenty of room for two bikes, tool boxes and installed shelving. I can fit three bikes, but I have to pull out the roll-out toolbox. The added room of a v-nose would probably allow a third bike easily, but the shelving situation would be much different. If I had to do it all over, I'd get the 7x16 or 7x18 v-nose or even one that is 8' wide.
What mileage impact were you getting? There's a used 8.5x16 that I could get but I was too scared of hauling a wind sail on the highway

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HondaGalToo

Control Rider
I tow a 7x14 dual axle with a flat front. With my 2006 F150 5.4L V8 (3.73 gears) I got around 10 mpg. With my 2016 3.5L V6 Ecoboost (3.31 gears), about 12-13. Both trucks pulled it with no problem, hardly know it's back there. I do have a weight distribution hitch.
 

Kurt_Orban

Member
I tow a 7x14 dual axle with a flat front. With my 2006 F150 5.4L V8 (3.73 gears) I got around 10 mpg. With my 2016 3.5L V6 Ecoboost (3.31 gears), about 12-13. Both trucks pulled it with no problem, hardly know it's back there. I do have a weight distribution hitch.
God I'm dreading this gas mileage lol. What's your ceiling height? And have you towed anything else?

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andykurz

Member
An F150 should pull any of those sizes fine. As Jim said height is a big deal. I would suggest thinking about two more things: 1 vs. 2 axles and brakes vs. no brakes. Single axle, no brake trailers are simpler and may not need inspection in your state. However, they put much more stress on the truck and driveability since they have high tongue weight. Tandem axles with brakes drive really nice.


Come to grips with the fact that your gas mileage will not be good! Keep your towing speed down is probably the best thing you can do to save gas
 

andykurz

Member
Also your 2010 will tow much better from a seat of the pants perspective because your transmission has many more speeds (i assume). Judy's truck may have a 4 speed and having 6,7,8 speeds that some of the newer trucks have really helps out when towing on the highway.
 

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
I had a 2004 RAM 1500 with the 5.7l Hemi and it would get about 8 mpg pulling the little trailer. I got about 10 pulling the larger, yet shorter trailer. I now have a RAM 2500 with the Cummins diesel and I can easily get 13-15mpg with the same trailer.
 

Slitherin

Control Rider
Director
I wouldn't worry about mileage. A couple of miles per gallon will never make up for not having enough space. Get the largest trailer that your truck will pull. That being said, not all 7x14 trailers are built equally. The 7x14 v nose I tow is heavy AF. Loaded it weighed well over 6,000 lbs. My Titan is rated at 9,200 but even not fully loaded you know it is back there. I can carry 3 bikes, a scooter, Beds on each side wall, 12 Rental suits, rolling tool cart, stands, fuel jugs, etc. 8' wide would be better but then I would just fit more stuff. I get 8-10 mpg towing but honestly it doesn't get much better than that not towing now days. Maybe 12-14 (downhill with a tailwind). I need to upgrade my tow vehicle soon.
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
God I'm dreading this gas mileage lol. What's your ceiling height? And have you towed anything else?

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It's probably 6 feet, I can stand up in it at 5'4". I've towed open trailers before, but not with the F150. The open trailers were when I had a Ranger. Had to upgrade the truck for the enclosed. They're probably better now, but my ~2002 Tundra V8 didn't do a very good job. To be fair, it was Toyota's first full size truck and it wasn't exactly full sized.
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
Also your 2010 will tow much better from a seat of the pants perspective because your transmission has many more speeds (i assume). Judy's truck may have a 4 speed and having 6,7,8 speeds that some of the newer trucks have really helps out when towing on the highway.
My new truck is a 6 speed. The 2006 was 4 speed. Starting in 2017, the F150s have 10 speeds.

Slitherin is right about the speed. If I would stay at 55-60, I get around 13 mpg. That's great considering that was the around-town mileage of the 2006.

Oh, and you can't have too much trailer, lol. Well, unless you go over the towing capacity of your vehicle.
 
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Kurt_Orban

Member
Yeah, since it's primarily me going to the track with no others committed for Anton of days, I might be able to just stick with a 7x14. I definitely want tandem axles and I've looked at some 6x12 and 7x12 tandems but better so close in price to a 7x14 or 16 that I'm like, whatever, I'll just get a 7x16. I really want the 6'6" ceiling though, I hate worrying about banging my head or helmet going in the ramp doors.

Right now I tho k I've narrowed it down to either doing a Pro-line trailer or Covered Wagon from AllPro. Both are economy trailers and not aluminum. If like an aluminum buy then I'm at 7 or 8k and since this is my first season going all in, I don't wanna blow my budget on a trailer before tires and gas. Lol. I'm estimating I'll need 18 sets of tires hahahahaha

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HondaGalToo

Control Rider
I used to routinely carry 2 people's bikes, a scooter, and gear in the 7x14. Plenty of room. I like the 7 wide because you can walk between the bikes. Definitely get the PitBull Trailer Restraint System. The dual axle pulls better, and another benefit is you can load it and walk around it it when it's not hitched. Mine's a US Cargo, it's a 2002. Not even sure if they're still around. It's held up great. I replaced the axles 2 years ago because it needed brakes and it was actually more cost-effective to replace the axles, assuming that the rubber torsion axles would probably go in another couple of years. Had to reseal the roof for the first time last year.

Get the wheel bearings repacked every other year.
 

Kurt_Orban

Member
I used to routinely carry 2 people's bikes, a scooter, and gear in the 7x14. Plenty of room. I like the 7 wide because you can walk between the bikes. Definitely get the PitBull Trailer Restraint System. The dual axle pulls better, and another benefit is you can load it and walk around it it when it's not hitched. Mine's a US Cargo, it's a 2002. Not even sure if they're still around. It's held up great. I replaced the axles 2 years ago because it needed brakes and it was actually more cost-effective to replace the axles, assuming that the rubber torsion axles would probably go in another couple of years. Had to reseal the roof for the first time last year.

Get the wheel bearings repacked every other year.
That's great advise thanks. I was planning in pitbulls

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Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
If you are worried about banging your head or tripping over the spring assist wires on your ramp door get 3 pool noodles and cut them open down one side. One for each wire and one for the top of the ramp door opening. It will make the wires much more visible and less of a trip hazard until you get used to them. As for the door opening I hate to tell you but you will bump your head going in and out at some point in time. I have a 7x14 trailer that I used in my lawn business since 2001 and I still bump my head every once and a while.
 

Kurt_Orban

Member
I think I'm going with a 7x14 from proline with 6'6" and .30 sheathing. The torsions are 700 more so I think I'm gonna stick with leaf springs. Don't know if it's really worth it. TRS for my bike and a couple attacks for ride alongs. That should be good. Hopefully my truck pulls it fine and isn't shifting all time on the highway. Unless there is another brand out there, I've heard good things about pro line from a lot of people.

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