Lights, Back Protector, Exhaust Heat Wrap, Mirrors, Tire Pressures

Nick A

New Member
I read the N2 Track Days Rider's Manual cover to cover. I will be participating at track days for the first time in the novice category. I have a few questions.
I would like to know if I can disconnect my (all stock) lighting, including led strip light, via fuse or relays?
What is a back protector?
Is exhaust heat wrap permitted?
Do mirrors have to be removed even if they are collapsible and/or taped?
Is tire pressure inflated to recommended track riding pressure the same as factory recommended pressures?
Happy Holidays!
 

Ron R

Member
Most people just tape over lights
Back protector is a extra piece under your suit. Can be plastic or foam. Look on sites like Revzilla and you’ll find options.
I have exhaust heat wrap on my track bike. It’s secured with safety wire.
Mirrors are usually taped.
I’d check the tire manufacturer web site for pressure recommendations. Bike manufacturers tend to run high.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
 

Nick A

New Member
Most people just tape over lights
Back protector is a extra piece under your suit. Can be plastic or foam. Look on sites like Revzilla and you’ll find options.
I have exhaust heat wrap on my track bike. It’s secured with safety wire.
Mirrors are usually taped.
I’d check the tire manufacturer web site for pressure recommendations. Bike manufacturers tend to run high.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Thank You!
 

Motofun352

Control Rider
I've found it's best to remove the mirrors if it's even remotely easy. Use wire ties (cable ties?) to lace up the fairing through the mirror bolt holes. Those dang mirrors are expensive! All remaining lenses need to be completely taped, it's best to disconnect the bayonet connectors to disable all the lights unless that causes an error code. The old analog bikes were so much easier.....:laugh:
 

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
+1 on removing the mirrors. I used to remove my turn front turn signals and and my tag/turn signal assembly. It didn’t take much longer than it would take to tape them, at least on my bike. I would remove the brake lightbulb and unplug the headlights. That’s easier than pulling fuses for me.
 

2blueyam

Member
I would personally not recommend a foam back protector for the track. Forcefield and Knox are the best brands, but there are other good ones. I would even lend someone my spare before seeing them on the track with just a cheap foam protector.

Old R1 pilot
 

Dom17

Intermediate Intermediate
Talk to the CRs( control risers) on your first day about tire pressures. That is going to vary based on if we are talking hot or cold and what brand. Hope you can get to the track in 2019, looks like you are new. You're going to love it.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

Nick A

New Member
Thank you everyone for the great responses, it's nice to hear different opinions & preferences. I'm new to track riding & plan on registering for 2019 as soon as possible. Happy Holidays to all!
 

mpusch

Micah
Thank you everyone for the great responses, it's nice to hear different opinions & preferences. I'm new to track riding & plan on registering for 2019 as soon as possible. Happy Holidays to all!

Just want to reiterate 2blueyam's comments about a back protector. It definitely should NOT be foam. You want a full length protector with a CE rating. This should go down and cover your tailbone. Ask someone who's broken their tailbone how much fun it is...

There's quite a few good ones out there, but here's a link to one to give you an idea of what you might generally look for. Fwiw this is the one I use.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/forcefield-back-protector-pro-sub-4
 

Nick A

New Member
Just want to reiterate 2blueyam's comments about a back protector. It definitely should NOT be foam. You want a full length protector with a CE rating. This should go down and cover your tailbone. Ask someone who's broken their tailbone how much fun it is...

There's quite a few good ones out there, but here's a link to one to give you an idea of what you might generally look for. Fwiw this is the one I use.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/forcefield-back-protector-pro-sub-4
Thank You!
 

Nick A

New Member
ForceField Back Protector Pro Sub 4, has great reviews & did protect tailbones of some buyers that experienced crashes, they were also very impressed with it's overall impact performance. It's been ordered, I should be receiving it soon. Thanks for the info Micha
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
Can't go wrong with Forcefield, great product.
I don't have a ton to add, but agree on removing mirrors if it's not too difficult, the Riders' Manual does specify removing, but I have seen exceptions.
As far as lights, removing fuses on some bikes works, others not so much. Sometimes removing the one for the headlight also disables the gauges. Unplugging is a good option.

Generally, you want to run the tire pressure (cold) lower than what is in your owner's manual/on a sticker on the swingarm. I'm assuming you have hypersport street tires? Or touring tires? An estimate of where to start is to run the pressures at 30 psi front and rear, cold, for street tires. The manufacturer will list much higher than that. There is always a tire guy at the track, he or she would be the one to give a better recommendation based on your particular tire. You definitely don't want to run them at the (higher) cold pressures recommended by the manufacturer, as they will overheat, become over-inflated, resulting in a smaller contact patch, and greasy/slippery tires.
 

virtualsolitude

Musician, physician but mostly fond of fishin'.
+1 on removing the mirrors. I used to remove my turn front turn signals and and my tag/turn signal assembly. It didn’t take much longer than it would take to tape them, at least on my bike. I would remove the brake lightbulb and unplug the headlights. That’s easier than pulling fuses for me.

+1 from me also. I'm planning a return to the track in 2019. I wish I had kept my previous track bike. Still searching for one (and selling my street R6).
 
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