Questions about safety wiring.

Jgelack

New Member
I know it's not required to safety wire to run in the novice class, but I'd like to learn how to do it and safety wire the bike anyway, just for piece of mind, and because I don't want to be "that guy"! I've gathered all the supplies I'll need, including a drill press and one of those jigs to drill into the corner of a bolt. I realize I can always purchase pre-drilled bolts, but I'd like to try drilling them myself first. I was wondering if you guys can give me some advice on what areas to safety wire, any tips on drilling the bolts, etc. Also, wondering if one of the tabs where my exhaust springs attach would be an acceptable anchor point to safety wire my oil drain plug and filter to, or should I try to find a different location? Thanks guys!
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
The requirement for safety wiring for Advanced group, recommended for all, is the oil drain plug, filler cap, and filter. I bought pre-drilled because I don't have a jig. I did drill some for the rear caliper. Use the 1/32 bits, don't press hard, keep lubed with WD40. Expect to break several!

I also have wired my brake calipers, brake pad pins, axle bolts/pinch bolts, and radiator cap. More is required for racing, but since I don't race, that's sufficient for me.

For the oil filter, I have a hose clamp around it, which I wired.

I wired my drain plug to a spot by the rear sets-it's a bolt hole not used for anything, or it may have been used for stock bodywork, not quite sure. I think the tab where the exhaust spring attaches might be ok, but if it's like mine, the metal is thin and somewhat sharp-I'd be concerned it might break the wire under riding vibrations. I'd try to find a different spot if at all possible.

Hope that helps somewhat.
 

Jgelack

New Member
The requirement for safety wiring for Advanced group, recommended for all, is the oil drain plug, filler cap, and filter. I bought pre-drilled because I don't have a jig. I did drill some for the rear caliper. Use the 1/32 bits, don't press hard, keep lubed with WD40. Expect to break several!

I also have wired my brake calipers, brake pad pins, axle bolts/pinch bolts, and radiator cap. More is required for racing, but since I don't race, that's sufficient for me.

For the oil filter, I have a hose clamp around it, which I wired.

I wired my drain plug to a spot by the rear sets-it's a bolt hole not used for anything, or it may have been used for stock bodywork, not quite sure. I think the tab where the exhaust spring attaches might be ok, but if it's like mine, the metal is thin and somewhat sharp-I'd be concerned it might break the wire under riding vibrations. I'd try to find a different spot if at all possible.

Hope that helps somewhat.
Thanks!, Come to think of it, the tabs on my exhaust are also somewhat thin. I'll look for a different spot. I was thinking I'd have to use 1/16 bits, but using 1/32 bits should reduce breakage, I hope! Thanks again!
 

mpusch

Micah
I know it's not required to safety wire to run in the novice class, but I'd like to learn how to do it and safety wire the bike anyway, just for piece of mind, and because I don't want to be "that guy"! I've gathered all the supplies I'll need, including a drill press and one of those jigs to drill into the corner of a bolt. I realize I can always purchase pre-drilled bolts, but I'd like to try drilling them myself first. I was wondering if you guys can give me some advice on what areas to safety wire, any tips on drilling the bolts, etc. Also, wondering if one of the tabs where my exhaust springs attach would be an acceptable anchor point to safety wire my oil drain plug and filter to, or should I try to find a different location? Thanks guys!

Great attitude to have. Some people treat safety wiring as a checkbox to follow the rules, but more importantly it could save your own life.

Without seeing exactly what your setup looks like, it's hard to tell exactly what works best. When it comes to your oil plug and filter, you may be able to safety wire them to each other. As Judy said, put a hose clamp on the filter. Then you run wire from the hose clamp to the drain plug. You obviously need to make sure that you have it oriented in a way that the wire is pulling the filter and the plug in their "tight" directions.

Make sure you get good drill bits. They're cheap enough that I usually buy a couple different brands to find ones that work best. Also, most people recommend a good cutting fluid too.
 

Jgelack

New Member
Great attitude to have. Some people treat safety wiring as a checkbox to follow the rules, but more importantly it could save your own life.

Without seeing exactly what your setup looks like, it's hard to tell exactly what works best. When it comes to your oil plug and filter, you may be able to safety wire them to each other. As Judy said, put a hose clamp on the filter. Then you run wire from the hose clamp to the drain plug. You obviously need to make sure that you have it oriented in a way that the wire is pulling the filter and the plug in their "tight" directions.

Make sure you get good drill bits. They're cheap enough that I usually buy a couple different brands to find ones that work best. Also, most people recommend a good cutting fluid too.
Yes, I knew about using a hose clamp around the filter, but never thought about wiring the filter and drain plug together! I will look to see if that is on option on my bike. Thanks for the tip!
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
Thanks!, Come to think of it, the tabs on my exhaust are also somewhat thin. I'll look for a different spot. I was thinking I'd have to use 1/16 bits, but using 1/32 bits should reduce breakage, I hope! Thanks again!
Oh crap, I meant 1/16! Sorry 'bout that!
 

CBRtist

Well-Known Member
I’m a little bit of a novice on safety wiring, since I’ve only done for Minis so far, but a good tip I got was to measure out the wire 3x the distance you’re wiring, to be sure you’ll have the right amount. Might seem basic, but like I said, I’m new to game and it was helpful for me.
 

tdelegram

Control Rider
I’m a little bit of a novice on safety wiring, since I’ve only done for Minis so far, but a good tip I got was to measure out the wire 3x the distance you’re wiring, to be sure you’ll have the right amount. Might seem basic, but like I said, I’m new to game and it was helpful for me.
But if you have a carburetor that needs cleaned Wendy is the woman for the job.
 

Menotomy

World's Okayest Racer
Control Rider
Make sure you get good drill bits. They're cheap enough that I usually buy a couple different brands to find ones that work best. Also, most people recommend a good cutting fluid too.

I recommend Champion Cobalt, they can be found on Amazon in 12 packs. The 12 pack is about $25 but I haven't found any that last as long and resist snapping when using a good technique (slow and steady). Any 3-in-1 oil will work if that's easier to find than a "cutting fluid."
 

bmart

Control Rider
The size of the hole you need will be based on the wire you have. I have one size thicker wire than most so the hole is a bit larger. In addition to the oil check, fill, drain, filter, I wired my radiator cap to the radiator mount. Just tie everything so that the bolt you are trying to secure can't "back out" at all. You can also use some clips (hitch pins?) to avoid rewiring every time.
 

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bmart

Control Rider
I have one (four) of those and have some availability this weekend. What time is good for you, Wendy? :whistle:
 

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mpusch

Micah
The size of the hole you need will be based on the wire you have. I have one size thicker wire than most so the hole is a bit larger. In addition to the oil check, fill, drain, filter, I wired my radiator cap to the radiator mount. Just tie everything so that the bolt you are trying to secure can't "back out" at all. You can also use some clips (hitch pins?) to avoid rewiring every time.

Great point on using the spring clips. The can make life a lot easier for commonly accessed bolts. Just in case the OP doesn't know, you're not supposed to use clips on the drain plug or oil filter though.

http://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php?cPath=276
 

CBRtist

Well-Known Member
I have one (four) of those and have some availability this weekend. What time is good for you, Wendy? :whistle:

LOL. This is exxxxactly why I don’t throw out there I’ve been getting into this. I already have a neighbor who was like “I have a 1972 Honda that’s been sitting in storage for years and won’t start.... can you look at it?”

Get in line is all I’m saying haha
 

Jgelack

New Member
I recommend Champion Cobalt, they can be found on Amazon in 12 packs. The 12 pack is about $25 but I haven't found any that last as long and resist snapping when using a good technique (slow and steady). Any 3-in-1 oil will work if that's easier to find than a "cutting fluid."
Thanks for the tip on these bits, I just picked them up on Amazon!
 

Dave561

Control Rider
Director
If you run into any problems, look me up at an event. I’ll help you wire up any bolts you got left

If you’re close to Lancaster PA I could help you before the event
 

Jgelack

New Member
If you run into any problems, look me up at an event. I’ll help you wire up any bolts you got left

If you’re close to Lancaster PA I could help you before the event
Thanks, will do! I'm in Scranton, PA, I appreciate the offer!
 

mpusch

Micah
Yep, I picked up the 23pc kit from Kurveygirl awhile ago. I'm figuring the best place to use these would be on bolts being loosened/removed for wheel changes?

Yup, oil dipstick too. Pinch bolts are doable with clips usually, but might take being a little creative.
 
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