Quickshifter and side stand?

mdhokie

Member
Just bought an R1 that came equipped with a dynojet quickshifter and no kickstand. Looks like the quickshifter is attached to one of the side stand mounting points. I am a little uncomfortable trying to hold the bike with one hand while reaching around for a rear stand, so I would prefer to add a side stand back if possible. Anybody know if it is possible to keep the side stand and still have the quick shifter? Picture attached.
 

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Emerson

BobbleHeadMoto
Control Rider
ATP/3C
That's your shift lever that's attached to the kickstand bracket. That's also where the OEM shift bracket bolts onto so there is no problem installing the kickstand back on.
 

mdhokie

Member
Got a used stand from eBay pretty cheap, but...turns out the belly pan (I believe sharkskinz) interferes with the swing of the kickstand. Some googling indicates I would have to cut a decent sized chunk out of the pan (or get the street belly pan version instead of race version) to allow the stand to mount and swing freely. That doesn't seem great, though some googling indicates that's what others have done. Anybody know if any of aftermarket kick stands fit with the race plastic?
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
Don't think you'll find an aftermarket kick stand that'll work. Will be easier just to trim the belly pan as needed.
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
Additionally I would check to see if the wiring for the kick stand switch is still there. I am not a fan of kick stand equipped bikes and no switch. It's far too easy to forget your kick stand is down and head out through the pits/on track with the kick stand ready to send you into a high side the moment you jam that kick stand into the pavement and the entire bike pivots on it.
 

mdhokie

Member
The kickstand sensor is removed and the wire is not visible; either cut or tucked away somewhere. Will have to go on a wire hunt.

I think the main part of the kickstand actually does not interfere; the only part that hits the belly pan is the spring and the protrusion that the spring attaches to. I was contemplating whether I could attach the spring to the outside of the kickstand as it is on my FZ1 instead of on the inside; if I could find a way to rig that up, it should clear the belly pan without cutting.
 

fowlplayracing

Steve
Control Rider
The kickstand sensor is removed and the wire is not visible; either cut or tucked away somewhere. Will have to go on a wire hunt.

I think the main part of the kickstand actually does not interfere; the only part that hits the belly pan is the spring and the protrusion that the spring attaches to. I was contemplating whether I could attach the spring to the outside of the kickstand as it is on my FZ1 instead of on the inside; if I could find a way to rig that up, it should clear the belly pan without cutting.
Dremel with a drywall bit on fiberglass works really well. Had to cut both of my bikes when I decided to put the stands back on. I was able to cut with the body installed which allowed me to shape the cut just right. Easy and quick to remove it at inspection time when dropping the belly pan for racing. Adjusted the spring size to make it stiffer, reducing any accidental high sides.
 

Menotomy

World's Okayest Racer
Control Rider
Dremel with a drywall bit on fiberglass works really well.

If you're just shaving off a little bit to make room, using a sanding wheel with a Dremel works really well too. The drywall bit can get kind of squirrely if you're like me and aren't used to it. Since the bodywork is thin the sanding wheel can take quite a bit off very quickly, it's just not as precise.
 

mdhokie

Member
How big a hole are we talking? It looks like it might be sizable. Do you have any pictures of the finished result?
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
The kickstand sensor is removed and the wire is not visible; either cut or tucked away somewhere. Will have to go on a wire hunt.

I think the main part of the kickstand actually does not interfere; the only part that hits the belly pan is the spring and the protrusion that the spring attaches to. I was contemplating whether I could attach the spring to the outside of the kickstand as it is on my FZ1 instead of on the inside; if I could find a way to rig that up, it should clear the belly pan without cutting.

If you cannot get the switch wired up, I would not put the kick stand on. I have seen too many people high side their bike at super low speeds because of a non functioning kick stand kill switch. The last one was at Pitt Race, he went out in his group (Intermediate), yet he was too far away for me to say or do anything. Just watched it happen as he leaned left to go on track, drove that kick stand into the pavement, and launched himself and the bike into that metal guard rail on the right. He was OK, but he definitely got a few bruises and fucked up the bike a good amount.

You will be OK with remembering 95% of the time. It's that one time, that 5%, that'll bite you in the ass and say "no more". I've been living the kick stand-less life for the past 5 years, you adapt to the new life without a kick stand.

If the wiring is there, hook it all up, swing down stand, mark how much needs to get trimmed, trim, refit, retrim as needed. Not a whole lot to it, and it's only race plastics, used at that, who cares what it looks like. Doesn't have to be pretty.
 

Menotomy

World's Okayest Racer
Control Rider
I agree with John above. When my bike had a kickstand there were a couple times the safety switch saved me. I'd be in a rush and I'd put it into gear only to have the engine die because the switch did it's job. Maybe I would've noticed on the way to pit out, maybe I wouldn't.

Not sure what year your R1 is, but the easiest route might be to just by another one. I wouldn't be surprised if it was clipped near the wiring harness end of it and soldered together. You can find them relatively cheap on eBay. Not sure what year yours is but here is an example.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-07-YA...ash=item4b2bb6c5c1:g:FPUAAOSwyGZZ94rY&vxp=mtr

There are probably forum posts or even Youtube videos (or someone on here) that has info on where to find the clip so you can reconnect it, screw it in, then bolt your kickstand back on once you figure out what to do about the bodywork.

Or, as Vinny said, practice your rearstand technique. Once you get used to it you can do it pretty easily on your own. I just recommend getting a quality rearstand with big wheels that's sturdy, not one of those $70 one that you have to bolt together. They will flex out of position and you can't get your bike back on.
 

mdhokie

Member
I got one of the pit bull rear stands and it seems pretty sturdy. I tried out doing the stand by myself but it seems pretty iffy procedure and a matter of time before I drop the bike. I can't reach the brake if I'm reaching down for the stand, so if there's any incline at all, I have to worry about it rolling. If the stand is more than 2 feet from my tire, I have to lean all the way over to get it, and bike is basically resting only on my leg which is also moving as I reach. I weigh in at about 150lbs so if the bike ever goes far off vertical, a small portion of my body weight at an awkward angle doesn't do much to stop it. I'm not sure how you guys seem to find it easy to do...

Warning taken about the kickstand switch. I used to have an antique bike which didn't have the kill switch, and I started off many times with kickstand down. The forward motion always kicked it right back and it wasn't enough of a bump to lift the rear tire so it never seemed to be a problem. It sounds like these bikes have a much more violent reaction! The kickstand on the antique was much springier with more flex though; the ones on the R1 seem to be much more rigid.
 

Menotomy

World's Okayest Racer
Control Rider
It was tough the first few times I did it but once I learned to trust the bike and I realized it will balance on its own pretty well it became easier. I'm mid 170s with a 440lb bike (SV650) so I'm in the same boat as far as weight. There are two techniques I use when lowering it from the stand. One is to stand next to it, put your foot under/on the wheel of the stand, and push forward. The bike will roll off the stand. Another is to sit on the bike and push your heel against the wheel and push forward, and/or kick it with your heel. One more option is to just have someone else help. You can also push your bike into a sport chock, put the rear stand on, then roll it back for a front stand if you're doing warmers. If you're not doing warmers, just push it into the chock and leave it.

The only paddock I've ever had a problem with due to slope is NYST which is at a really steep grade. Never pit alone there, ever. Otherwise, the bike isn't going to roll off on a slight incline unless you push it.
 

D-Zum

My 13 year old is faster than your President
Practice putting your bike on the stands, you have all winter.

Agree with Vinny all the way on this.

Welcome to having a real track bike. I hate the side stands on my street bikes now but I can’t ride around with a pit bull stand with me. Unless that come out with a portable model.
(Note to call George with the suggestion)

It’s easy to get your bike on the stands.

If you want, you can come over and see how I do it or I can come show you.

I’m not far away in Pasadena Md.

Pm me if interested.
 

D-Zum

My 13 year old is faster than your President
I got one of the pit bull rear stands and it seems pretty sturdy. I tried out doing the stand by myself but it seems pretty iffy procedure and a matter of time before I drop the bike. I can't reach the brake if I'm reaching down for the stand, so if there's any incline at all, I have to worry about it rolling. If the stand is more than 2 feet from my tire, I have to lean all the way over to get it, and bike is basically resting only on my leg which is also moving as I reach. I weigh in at about 150lbs so if the bike ever goes far off vertical, a small portion of my body weight at an awkward angle doesn't do much to stop it. I'm not sure how you guys seem to find it easy to do...

You’re overthinking the problem. You don’t need the brakes at all if you leave the bike in gear as you shut it off and dismount the bike.

Then you have the left hand on the bar. Right hand on the tail.

Transfer left hand to the tail. Firmly hold the bike up by the tail. Reach for your stand that you strategically placed within easy reach for your return when you left for your session with your now free right hand.

Line stand up with rear swing arm spools and when aligned swing your body around behind the bike keeping firm support on the tail section.

Push down on stand handle. Bike will lift up by rear and stand handle will snap down in place.

Done.

Again if you want a demo or whatever. Let me know.
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
Advice from a short person who can't get the bike on the rear stand easily (eg not at all) with no kickstand....my solution (this works only if you have rearsets with the pegs that do not fold up) was to get a jack stand and lean the bike on it by the footpeg. Surrogate kickstand. Then I dismount, and put it on the rearstand. Works well for me.
 

mdhokie

Member
Thanks D-Zum; I tried a couple times and was able to do it just fine in my garage. My concern isn't so much that it's impossible to do, but that you have an interesting dilemma on your hands if for some reason your rear stand got bumped off the paddock pavement into the dirt, just out of reach, or some other hypothetical situation where the rear stand wasn't exactly where you wanted it, and what should be a trivial operation just got complicated. Just makes me sweat a little to picture myself in that situation.
 
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