r6 exhaust

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01wj

Member
So this new bike seems to be a never ending money pit. Anyway, I spoke w/ Mr. Swenson over at Andrew Swenson Design and he told me that pretty much the cat is going to have to go in order to get the exhaust to work with the aftermarket bodywork. I heard that it will fit w/ some bodyworks, but I guess the issue is the cat gets too hot to have it in the bellypan.

The thing is, when I bought this bike I really didn't want to drop another $2k on an exhaust (That figures a full system and then I'd have to get a Powercommander or something) because I figured at my skill level the extra horsepower and weight savings wouldn't really matter too much. (Plus regarding the weight, it would give me inspiration to go on a diet)

I'm also not a huge fan of all these fancy cans and headers because I did that on my R1 and come to find out a few years later, these titanium exhaust get brittle and crack and then everytime I crash there goes $400 for the canister.

So I found this on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R6-06-2011-Mid-Pipe-Y-Pipe-Exhaust-CAT-Eliminator-MJS-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c5ad244b6QQitemZ190502290614QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Any thoughts regarding it or should I just pony up and buy a Graves full system?
 
0

01wj

Member
Also, I did consider just buying a slipon, but it looks like they don't really solve the problem of the catalytic converter / muffler box or whatever it is.
 
Matt

Matt

New Member
i've heard cat eliminators or "y-pipes" work if you can't spring for a slip on.. i don't have any experience with them though..

your other option is to heat shield your bodywork from your cat. there are plenty of options. I've seen a few guys put a couple layers of thing sheet metal in the belly pan with some space between them for air to flow, or header wrap, or both...

if the cat eliminator / y pipe thing works, for as cheap as I hear they are i'd do that plus you're dropping weight.
 
trailmug

trailmug

New Member
I haven't looked at the stock exhaust very much, but I wonder how much the stock tune depends on the volume and/or back pressure of the cat box (it's not super-small, and might serve as an expansion chamber or resonator). Dunno if you have or were going to go for an aftermarket FI box/tune, but it might be something to ask a tuner about.

edit: Oh, I skipped the part about not having an FI box. I think if it were me, I'd check into the heat shielding idea.

nother edit: plus, the stock lambda sensor goes into the box, so if you were going to bypass, you should plan on welding a bung onto the Y if it hasn't one. Looks like the stock bung is in the back of the box, but I'm rather confident it has to be in the pre-cat exhaust stream. Really makes me wonder what that box looks like on the inside...
 
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01wj

Member
I guess I'll look into the whole 03 - 05 header thing then also. I will have to also ask someone about the mapping if I take the cat out. For some reason I wouldn't be surprised if I do need to get one of those tuning boxes, which I was hoping to avoid but its probably inevitable at least one of these days. Although those new Power Commanders w/ Autotune do look pretty cool.

Do those full systems really help that much? I have one on my R1 but never rode it on the track before I put it on. I see all these companies advertising 7 or 8 hp gaines but realistically if I'm at a track like Road America or something, I'm just going to use my R1. (That is unless I get talked into trying racing this year)

Thanks
 
greeny

greeny

Member
1up5down

1up5down

Control Rider
//// The MJS deal is a good route!

If you don't want to spend 1K or more on a full system, I may be able to help you out. I have an 08 OEM system with the cat removed (see link below). As mentiond by others you can purchase an M4 Y-pipe for $170 from Motomummy or $175 from MJS performance. I say go with M4 as they test all their stuff. You will walk away a full systems for under $400, which is not bad at all!

Purchasing a slip on without removing the CAT and purchasing a Y-Pipe will not help you. Why??? Because the CAT is welded to the headers.

You could purchase headers minus the CAT, a Y-Pipe and a slip-on. Doing this will cost you approximately $500-1K depending on the slip-on you select. In that case I would say go get a full system.

My parts for sale post:http://tracktalk.nesba.com/showthread.php?t=17957

M4 Y-Pipe:https://www.motomummy.com/store/product.php?productid=18663&cat=0&featured=Y

I only post this to help you better understand your options. Please do not feel as if I'm pusihing my headers and canister on you. Should you want to get a full system, shoot me a PM and I may be able to help you find a system at a really good price.

Good luck!
 
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01wj

Member
Thanks for the info. Sounds like just cutting my header and going this M4 route will work out the best. I don't really ever see a need for getting another stock one w/ the cats and all, so it looks like for about $175 I can get this taken care of. (Plus I'm sure if I REALLY need a stock one w/ the cats again one day I can find one on ebay or something)
 
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01wj

Member
*Plus if I just do it myself I won't have to ship these headers back and forth which I'm sure isn't cheap nowadays since oil decided to go back to the $100/barrel range again.
 
1up5down

1up5down

Control Rider
01wj;173855 wrote: Thanks for the info. Sounds like just cutting my header and going this M4 route will work out the best. I don't really ever see a need for getting another stock one w/ the cats and all, so it looks like for about $175 I can get this taken care of. (Plus I'm sure if I REALLY need a stock one w/ the cats again one day I can find one on ebay or something)
01wj;173856 wrote: *Plus if I just do it myself I won't have to ship these headers back and forth which I'm sure isn't cheap nowadays since oil decided to go back to the $100/barrel range again.
Click to expand...
Yes sir, just make sure you follow the M4 directions when go to cutt the CAT off. I love it when the NESBA family helps another out. Now, you can enjoy that R6 without an worry of it costing you major $$$. However, this hobby is not cheap!

Have fun and don't worry Andrew will not let you down on the paint work.
 
bugmn20

bugmn20

New Member
R6 Exhaust Question

KBacon;173441 wrote: I've also read that you can install a header from a '03-05 r6 & an aftermarket slip on

I am looking at some of these options too since I want to get rid of that big cat to shave weight and to work with my new bodywork. This may be a stupid question, but if you go the route of the 03-05 R6 header with a slipon, would you use a slipon from an 03-05 or a slipon from an 06+?

Also, when i bought my track bike the guy threw in the header pictured below. He said it was a Graves header for an 06 R6, but after looking at the pics of Graves headers for 06+ R6's, this one does not look like the ones in the pictures. Is there anyone who can help me identify this header and what it is for, or does anyone have any recommendations on how to ID it? It is definitely a titanium header and if it happened to be for an 03-05 that would be super sweet. I can't find any markings on it at all.

Finally I just want to make sure that I'm not messing up my motor or anything by not having enough back pressure or whatever. I'm guessing the remedies you guys have posted have taken this into consideration or you wouldn't have posted them. Any help on this stuff will be greatly appreciated!

Header.jpg


Header2.jpg


DSC03019.jpg


DSC03020.jpg


1up5down;173865 wrote: I love it when the NESBA family helps another out.
Click to expand...
I agree with this!
 
speedfree

speedfree

New Member
I just did this, as in last night. I bought the y-pipe for $170 delivered from MotoMummy. I cut off the cat box, which is a great, heavy, hot lump of crap. Took me 10 minutes. I beat the honeycomb pre-cat out of the collectors...that probably took me 30-45 mins with a masonry bit & a "custom grind" on an old chisel. Then I reassembled with the stock muffler. I chatted a bit with Jamie James about slip-ons and such, and he seemed to think the stock can will give more than enough flow unless you're running a Supersport-spec engine and/or race ECU.
The bike is going on the dyno the day before Barber, so I will get back to you with numbers. Meantime, it sounds properly uncorked with my sub-$200 investment.

-from my pimped-out Droid.
 
0

01wj

Member
So now that we're on this note about exhausts, I guess I should probably get a fuel management module to tune the bike since the exhaust is going to be all jacked up from stock. God how the $ just adds up w/ this sport.

Anyway, what are your opinions on Bazazz vs. Power Commander V? I was looking at getting one of these and the autotune add on just well because it seems really cool. Plus I was hoping then I wouldn't have to get that thing remapped depending on the fuel, (although I only use pump gas, but "pump gas" is 93 octane up in the midwest and when I'm back in Arizona it's only 91) and since I'm frequently in different places around the country, I figured it would run better w/ out getting remapped? (Road America at say less then 1000 ft elevation vs. Miller at almost 5000 feet)

Any suggestions?
 
speedfree

speedfree

New Member
I meant to mention that the M4 y-pipe is a brilliant bit of engineering, IMO. I honestly don't see how a full header could flow any better then this simple bit of stainless collector.

Not sure the PC-V is going to be compatible. They only spec the autotune for '09 and up bikes. FWIW, there are lots of used PCIII and Bazzaz units out there for these bikes. I got my PCIII with ignition module from a NESBA guy right here for essentially half price.

-from my pimped-out Droid.
 
trailmug

trailmug

New Member
01wj;173977 wrote: So now that we're on this note about exhausts, I guess I should probably get a fuel management module to tune the bike since the exhaust is going to be all jacked up from stock. God how the $ just adds up w/ this sport.

Anyway, what are your opinions on Bazazz vs. Power Commander V? I was looking at getting one of these and the autotune add on just well because it seems really cool. Plus I was hoping then I wouldn't have to get that thing remapped depending on the fuel, (although I only use pump gas, but "pump gas" is 93 octane up in the midwest and when I'm back in Arizona it's only 91) and since I'm frequently in different places around the country, I figured it would run better w/ out getting remapped? (Road America at say less then 1000 ft elevation vs. Miller at almost 5000 feet)

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
If you're in a higher-altitude region, lower octane gas works because the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) is less at WOT.. less molecules of air per piston stroke = lower absolute compressed mix pressure. Even, the lower octane fuel is ideal in higher elevations (just like 93 in an engine tuned for 87 burns slower than ideal). What sucks is that it isn't any cheaper. :p

Since bikes use a speed-density system based off of the intake MAP for fueling, I wouldn't think the tune would be terribly affected by changing altitude, though there could be some magic to how intake/exhaust flow in the different atmosphere (less mass, less inertia). Another advantage to auto-tuning is that your ram air box will be pressurized at speed (ram air's good for 6HP on an 08 R6). Plus as you say, having a wideband lambda feedback loop on your bike is just cool. :cool:

Bazzaz Pros:
  • Available quick shifter and traction control in one box
  • Controls all 8 injectors out of the box (PC needs secondary fuel add-on, only for 09+)
  • Requires you to sanity-check suggested map changes before they're applied
    PC Pros:
    Automatically adjusts map on the flyAvailable ignition controlBeen around forever
 
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