Skeptical about shop repair - 2014 Daytona 675R Shift Issue

JR711

New Member
Last year I replaced OEM rearsets with Woodcraft including GP shift conversion kit. I was able to use OEM quickshifter. Everything worked beautifully for 1 and a half track days then I could not shift past 3rd gear over about 8K RPM's. I could shift through the gears at lower RPM's. Didn't matter if I was using the clutch or not. Over subsequent trouble shooting sessions shifting became more finicky.
I talked to Woodcraft and they had me tweaking shift arm angle but I couldn't find an adjustment that alleviated the issue.
I also found these two posts: http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=112050 & http://www.triumph675.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-155945.html

Somewhat stumped and out of time to spend on this myself I took the bike to the dealer and shared all the info I could find. They said they couldn't isolate so they called Triumph. Triumph asked if it had been laid down, (it has, 2 different lowsides on left side of bike) and if so something could be bent in the transmission. They have now quoted me 4-5 hours labor ($100/hr) to inspect the transmission and another 10-12 hours to repair, if that is the issue.
Only thing I can think to do at this point is take the bike back, put stock rearset set-up back on to see if that works, keep playing with shift arm angle, take somewhere else.
Track day scheduled at PittRace on the 18th and no bike!

Thoughts?
 

mpusch

Micah
Hmm...If I were you I'd probably try the stock rearsets and see if anything gets better. Free attempt before spending serious money on something. I'm really not an expert, but that would be pretty surprising to have a lowside bend the transmission? Anecdotal, but I've highsided my first-gen Daytona twice on the left side and just replaced consumables.
 

tdelegram

Control Rider
JR,

First off I think Micah is right about going back to stock to see if that solves the problem.

On bikes there are generally 2 types of transmissions, a cassette type and what I'll call traditional on non-cassette type. The cassette transmissions are easily accessible through a case cover similar to a stator or clutch. Traditional transmissions require the motor to be removed and the cases to be split, this is a major job as you're essentially taking the entire motor apart as well as the tranny. I am not sure what type of tranny your bike runs but this may explain the hours quoted. Regarding the work itself, as noted above test it stock first and see of the problem still exists. Another area to look into is the shift shaft (the part that goes into the tranny and attaches to the foot shifter) as well as any metal brackets (look up at the bike from the underside to see if there are any) that support the shift rod externally. Get a small flat edge and check them all to see of they are bent/warped. If everything checks out as straight and the stock components don't solve your problems then I think its time to turn to the dealer.
 

mmmfishrighton

Control Rider
What did the dealer do when they couldn't isolate the problem? The first thing I would do would be replace the shift pivot plate.
 

borislav

Control Rider
What does Triumph oem qs cut out spark or fuel?
Does your bike has second set of injectors for high rpm?
Reason behind these two questions is,
I had same issue with my R6 two years ago. What turned out to be was, somehow on my PCIII second set of the injectors (High rpm) qs function was disabled.
I contacted Dynojet and tech via host session through my computer hooked up to PC III was able to enable function and problem solved.
You may have different issues but I thought to share, you never know!?
 

P33rks

New Member
Did you ever get to the bottom of this, I've just bought a 2014 and have the same issues, got a race meeting at the end of the month too
 
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