16' Enclosed Trailer Build Ideas

[borislav]

Just picked up the trailer this past week, looks great. I bought it sight unseen and I completely forgot to ask about the roof. It's a V-nose so I knew it would be a flat roof, but I always thought that roofs were 1 piece design, I didn't realize they made segmented roofs. It looks well constructed with heavy duty waterproof tape over the seams and I know I'll have to reseal it in the future just like any other roof, but has anyone else had issues with leaks in a multipiece system?

That is going to be one hot sumbitch in July at let's say Road Atlanta, I would invest in that rooftop a/c asap.
If you do this and next summer you come of track in 95* weather and you enter that sweet cool trailer you will thank me!

 

[borislav]

This is my setup, unfortunately haven't been using it in a while now!

 

[tdelegram]

View attachment 10303
This is my setup, unfortunately haven't been using it in a while now!

Looks familiar

 

[borislav]

Looks familiar

From your previous life!

 

[Italian Stallion 1199s]

Not seeing a roof vent on it so I assume the framing isn't braced for a roof vent or roof mounted AC. Never been a fan of the portable style A/C units. They take up valuable floor space and generally don't work as well as the roof mounted ones. Mini splits are an option too, but they're not the most pretty to look at (but highly functional)

Speaking of hot weather, when it comes to mounting a roof top unit, is it as straight forward as just reinforcing the current beams? They are 24" OC. I feel like it shouldn't be that difficult.

 

[Otto Man]

Yes. You can source some of the square tubing (I believe it's 1"x1" for most standard trailers) and weld it in as needed, usually a 14x14 opening. Most rooftop AC units are heavy and in the neighborhood of 100lbs or so. Definitely want some bracing in there. Might as well go big as well and get a 15k BTU unit, wire the trailer for 30 amp service. One breaker for the A/C, one for a microwave/interior outlets, and an outside (tire warmer/fan/etc) outlet.

 

[MK3Brent]

Is your trailer insulated at all? Not sure if I read that.
You'll absolutely need to do this if you want to have any comfort inside during the day with the AC on.

 

[Otto Man]

Insulation helps for sure but man it's a very time and labor intensive job. If you're ordering a new trailer, it makes sense to order it with insulation for the build. So much easier to do that when there's no walls in the trailer.

If buying used, as most of us do...it's a labor of love. Myself, I'd rather just get a bigger than needed AC unit and do without the insulation. A 15k (even a 13.5) BTU roof top A/C unit in an uninsulated trailer will freeze you out of a 7x16 or even a 8.5x20 for that matter in Road Atlanta...in August. Sure, it's not efficient but who cares.

 

[MK3Brent]

It's probably my unit then, but I have a 15K Furrion that struggles in my dark color van with black panel interior. (Some insulation in the walls.)
I might look into it more before next year.

I was wondering how baking hot this black trailer will be in the summer.

 

[Otto Man]

Some of that has to be the unit itself. My Work and Play toy hauler is almost 30' long and only has a 13.5k btu unit and hasn't had a problem keeping it cool. A 15k BTU should be extreme overkill for a space as small as a van.

 

[tdelegram]

Some of that has to be the unit itself. My Work and Play toy hauler is almost 30' long and only has a 13.5k btu unit and hasn't had a problem keeping it cool. A 15k BTU should be extreme overkill for a space as small as a van.

Worknplays have great insulation and build quality. Tin can trailers that are not fully insulated and dark in color need some extra help.

 

[HondaGalToo]

Looking forward to it!
Many Thanks!

To follow up, my e-track was installed with large rivets because it's aluminum studs. My old steel trailer used self tapping screws into steel studs, which they said would pull out of aluminum. So, they didn't add any additional plywood or anything, just riveted through the plywood walls into the aluminum studs. They say that will hold up better and can be used as true tie-downs, as it won't rip out. Removal would require drilling out the rivets, so it's never moving, lol.

 

[Italian Stallion 1199s]

To follow up, my e-track was installed with large rivets because it's aluminum studs. My old steel trailer used self tapping screws into steel studs, which they said would pull out of aluminum. So, they didn't add any additional plywood or anything, just riveted through the plywood walls into the aluminum studs. They say that will hold up better and can be used as true tie-downs, as it won't rip out. Removal would require drilling out the rivets, so it's never moving, lol.

I just picked up some e-track last week and wanted to mount a rail to the wall to hold some fuel cans and was thinking this exact same thing! For a 1/2" plywood wall, plus the thickness of the e-track, what diameter and length is recommended for the rivets?

 

[rpm894]

To follow up, my e-track was installed with large rivets because it's aluminum studs. My old steel trailer used self tapping screws into steel studs, which they said would pull out of aluminum. So, they didn't add any additional plywood or anything, just riveted through the plywood walls into the aluminum studs. They say that will hold up better and can be used as true tie-downs, as it won't rip out. Removal would require drilling out the rivets, so it's never moving, lol.

I just ordered an aluminum trailer with finished walls, so no plywood. I think I’m going to have to mounting e-track and whatnot directly into the aluminum studs. Ive never seen these before, but someone on WERA boards said they use these to mount a tire rack. Looks like they will hold riveted through aluminum, but you can still use a bolt. https://www.rivetnutusa.com/rivnut-rivet-nut/

 

[HondaGalToo]

I just picked up some e-track last week and wanted to mount a rail to the wall to hold some fuel cans and was thinking this exact same thing! For a 1/2" plywood wall, plus the thickness of the e-track, what diameter and length is recommended for the rivets?

My trailer shop did the install. I'll see if I can find out.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

 

[tad158]

Why not just screw the etrack to the wall? There are a zillion holes for screws for extract for a reason... full them with screws.

I moved a piano in my trailer with the etrack screwed to the wall with zero issues. Gas cans will be no issue....

 

[CaseyAlbert]

Why not just screw the etrack to the wall? There are a zillion holes for screws for extract for a reason... full them with screws.

I moved a piano in my trailer with the etrack screwed to the wall with zero issues. Gas cans will be no issue....

Your plywood walls appear a TON more structural than the flimsy wall covering in the aluminum trailer I have.

 

[tad158]

It's just 1/2" plywood screwed to the aluminum studds. The e track gets its strength from the fact that load gets spread over many fasteners over a large area.