7/6 First Time - JMU Student

Discussion in 'Member Introductions' started by GTBrandon, Jul 9, 2019.

  1. GTBrandon

    GTBrandon New Member

    Just wanted to say that this was an awesome experience being out at an N2 event. Definitely caught the bug to keep coming back. I came from taking cars on track with NASA-MA, but took a break to have less cars and more motorcycles in college.

    I have a 05 R6 with a GPR V1 and some cheap adjustable levers. I’m thinking after this first event I want to upgrade my rear set, brake/clutch levers, and new clutch (mine is pretty toast). Any of y’all have recommendations on brands, or have some of these for sale used? Also anything else I didn’t list that I should look into.

    Biggest thing for me was body position throughout the day. I need to load up that rear peg more, get back, and get off the damn seat.

    Can’t say again how much fun I had with the whole N2 crew at this event. Hoping to be back at Summit in August!
    tdelegram likes this.
  2. tdelegram

    tdelegram Control Rider

    Keeping your bike in good mechanical operating condition is the most important factor. There are many riders on stock machines killing it out there. Make sure your wearable items are in good shape, tires, brake pads, chain, sprockets brake fluids engine oil , filter and suspension fluids. If you really want to upgrade I would recommend you start with suspension springs to match your weight and have the ride height and clickers set. Otherwise save your $’s for track days and tires.
    mdhokie and Jester like this.
  3. HondaGalToo

    HondaGalToo Control Rider

    Agree with Tom. If you have the cheap brake/clutch levers, those might be worth upgrading, because there have been issues with the cheap ones. They aren't machined to the tolerances of the stock stuff, sometimes causing brake lock up. Not always,. The brands I'd recommend are CRG, Pazzo, ASV. I wouldn't use anything else.

    In addition to track days and tires, I'd spend money on schools - the YCRS two day ChampSchool, the one day ChampDay. Or, do an ATP day offered by N2, they are listed on the schedule and have an additional cost on top of the track day. There's details about the program on the site, but many YCRS principles are taught.
    tdelegram likes this.
  4. Motofun352

    Motofun352 Control Rider

    Good safety gear and brain gear (ie training) are important. But most of us also suffer from moditis too. I've been a big fan of Woodcraft. It's extremely well built but that comes at a cost. Attack and Renthal is good stuff too (also $$). My advice is stick to the name brand stuff and avoid the knock off stuff that usually is compromised by being made of cheap materials and/or with low tolerances. Pay attention to the sales sections (here and at WERA). You might be able to find good used stuff, especially for a R6. Give Emerson at Bobbleheadmoto a call with your wish list, see what he's got available.
    tdelegram likes this.
  5. bmart

    bmart Control Rider

    Hit me off list. We can talk about 03-05 R6 & 06-09 R6S.
  6. Sahm

    Sahm New Member

    I'd say upgrade to steel braided brake lines before anything else. They'll improve your brake feel even with your current levers.
    meowculpa likes this.
  7. GTBrandon

    GTBrandon New Member

    Also, I have noticed recently a sort of ticking coming from the bike after it gets hot. Seems to go with engine rpm speed, as if maybe the valves need adjusting? Currently at 16k, not sure if it's worth doing yet or if that's even the issue. Any ideas on what that might be? Also while I'm in there if I'm going to adjust the valves, anything else to do preventatively while the valve cover is off?

    Thanks for the suggestions on the mods, I think I got ahead of myself and should focus on spending more money on seat time and schools than upgrades. Will probably try and just do new SS lines and possibly new lever/master cylinder. Never checked suspension fluid so maybe I can look into that, but also might just leave that until I do something with the shocks later on. If anything I'll just dial in the rear spring for my weight which should be pretty straight forward.
  8. Motofun352

    Motofun352 Control Rider

    16k is probably the vendor recommendation for a valve lash check. If you've never done an over head valve, shim under bucket adjustment, it's not a beginners job. Not terribly difficult but it will try your patience. Other than a good set of feeler gauges it doesn't take any specialty tools. A couple of hints:
    • Give yourself plenty of room to work...it's tight in there.
    • Get the shop manual or borrow one.
    • Allow for a whole day, especially if it's your 1st time.
    • Take notes, you will not remember.
    • Keep all the parts in exact order, somewhere you won't knock them on the shop floor, :(
    • If you have to change one shim, you might as well pull them all, at least to know what's in there for future reference.
    • After you measure gaps the first time, go back and do it again, make sure you get the same #'s.
    • If you're lucky you may be able to swap shims around...I've never been lucky.
  9. GTBrandon

    GTBrandon New Member

    I’ve done it on BMW’s a ton, but they were back in the days of when an engine bay had all the room in the world. Not sure if it’s worth doing given such a tight space.

    If I get a shop to do this, are there any other items it makes sense to have them do while it’s there? I’m fairly mechanically inclined but I’ve learned there are some things where the time it takes makes it worth just paying someone instead.
  10. vinny337

    vinny337 Vin is in...Beastmode! Control Rider

    Welcome to N2!
  11. Motofun352

    Motofun352 Control Rider

    I didn't want to scare you off this job. It's not rocket science if you are comfortable working on engine type stuff. Patience is the key in my opinion...that and keeping track of where you are and what you're doing. The most frustrating part is needing a particular shim and not having it readily available. That's why I've bought several "kits" of spare shims off of the for-sale section of the web site. I might have $100 of extra shims that I'll never need but then I won't have to wait to get what I need either.
  12. GTBrandon

    GTBrandon New Member

    Might be a dumb question, but don't you only need one shim. Whatever the spec is for the motor, and then just make sure they're all the same adjustment. Or am I missing something here.
  13. bmart

    bmart Control Rider

    Each cylinder has multiple intake and exhaust valves. Each valve will require one shim, unless it is a screw type adjustment. The shim is partially filing a space to set the proper gap for the valve. So....each valve will get measured and have the proper shim for it specifically. One can frequently pull them one at a time, after taking measurements of the gap, and also measure the corresponding shim. Then you may be able to move them around to get all valves into spec. This is an unlikely scenario and you should be armed with different size shims. I made a spreadsheet that does the calculations for me.

    Exhaust valve measurements normally get smaller, so I set them to the largest in spec measurement.

    Intakes usually get bigger, so I set those to the smaller side of spec.

    tdelegram likes this.

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