Brake cleaning and maintenance

[physicistkev]

Riddler

I use the RJL (non S) and they stop my boat just fine. I have heard that the S version has a lot more dust. :dunno:

 

[jimgl3]

i want to thank one and all who mentioned sanding the pins. never would have occurred to me and now the brakes i thought were in need of rebuilding are functioning like new! if you haven't tried that one you really should!

 

[lemondrop]

you use a high grit paper on the pins?? like 320, 400, 600??

just to confirm, the pins being the things that hold the brake pads on??

 

[jimgl3]

i used 400. yep. those are the ones...they hold the pads in the caliper and the pads slide on them...hence the stickiness i THOUGHT was the pistons, though i was puzzled, as they pressed back in with such ease. the pins looked clean just looking at them, but sanding made all the difference in the world.

 

[Bubba Zanetti]

Thanks Kevin!

BZ

 

[dmb367]

I used a 120 grit sanding sponge, but mine had some serious issues :wow:

 

[riddler]

physicistkev;42247 wrote: Riddler

I use the RJL (non S) and they stop my boat just fine. I have heard that the S version has a lot more dust. :dunno:

I originally bought the RJL pads, then the seller notified me that the RJLs were recalled for my 98 R1. They gave me the SRJLs as a replacement. They do make a lot of dust.

I have more questions:
1) Do you push each of the pistons all the way out (while clamping the others in place) for a full cleaning?
2) New seals on my bike were $160 at retail - A little pricey. I don't have any leaks so with a clean up of the pistons should I just use the current seals? Is there something recommended to lube those seals?

 

[physicistkev]

For cleaning I will use some brake-clean and a tooth brush. Nothing very aggressive. Just clean it up. At the end of the year I will disassemble the calipers completely and clean everything. Split the calipers and pop out all of the pistons. I only replace the seals that are necessary, which is usually none. I had neglected my brakes over the past few years and last Aug they got fresh everything. The seals only get ruined when you let crap build up on the piston and it drags past the seal. They will eventually wear out, but it should be over many years. I use a little brake fluid to wet the seals when I install them and when I install the pistons. Just make sure you clean everything after you get the new pads on. Any brake fluid will attract dust and dirt.

 

[rk97]

Great tips guys! I had this thread open on the laptop in the garage ...and got nowhere.

the caliper pin caps won't budge. Stupid design on Honda's part, but they're just flat-head screws. I can see where the previous owner struggled to avoid rounding them off to replace the pads, and now I'm coming very close to doing the same.

Any advice on getting those free? impact wrench maybe? I'm VERY close to just trying to find some new (used) calipers on eBay, and paying through the nose for shipping...

the bike is rideable as it sits, but the pistons are NOT pulling back in all the way. I'd really like to get this straight before 4/10, but I'm stuck until i can get the pin covers off

 

[physicistkev]

You want one of these

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?mv=rr

Make sure you buy some extra bits. Also make sure you get various sizes of bits. I use this tool when I have to take off any screw that doesn't come out with a little more than normal effort. Never use this tool to install a screw, only removal.

 

[rk97]

yeah, i was thinking impact wrench might be the best route, but it's hard to hold the caliper in place and keep it from rotating. may bolt it to the work bench.

i'm also wondering if i can replace the screws with bolts instead when I'm done... Thanks.

 

[awhicker]

You may not need them at all. I have a Cr125 that uses those caps and I was under the impression that they were used to keep dirt, mud, and water from getting into the heads of the pins. Maybe the caps are stainless or coated and maybe the pins are not.. The pins themselves are allen and the pins get torqued, right? If it's a sportbike, most of the problems seem to disappear.

It also seems to me that a bolt would work as long as it doesn't get in the way.

I hope the impact works, it should, but if it doesn't drill bits and extractors are the next step. And that isn't fun.

 

[Meat]

I just put on new calipers because I could not get my pin out, and it is an allen head. I am the one that installed the pin, so I am the only one to blame. I really didn't think I over-torqued them, but I couldn't get one of the 4 out. I broke an allen socket, and an allen wrench. I finally stripped the allen head. Drilled it out to accept an EZ-out and proceded to break that off in there as well.

I am guessing the steel pin gauled the aluminum caliper. That is the only thing I can think of. Now I have machined stainless steel pins that have a hex and are pre-drilled for safety wire. Torqued them to 144 in-lbs and safety wired them.

 

[physicistkev]

if all else fails, and you don't mind ruining the seals. Torch the body of the caliper around the pins. The alum should expand more than the pins and you might have an easier time getting them out. Although this is a risky maneuver and can cause more damage if your not extremely careful. I think with the impact driver you could get the small pin caps out and then the brake pins themselves. I use a Ryobi 18 Volt impact driver for the small stubborn bolts on the bike to get them off. Works very well. With a full charge it will work loose my 50mm clutch nut and put it back on . Quite handy let me tell you.

 

[tiggen]

My shop manual says that I should replace the bolts that hold the caliper to the fork bracket when I change pads. Does this make sense to anyone?

 

[HondaGalToo]

tiggen;50650 wrote: My shop manual says that I should replace the bolts that hold the caliper to the fork bracket when I change pads. Does this make sense to anyone?

They all say that. I've reused those bolts several times. The ones on my gixxer are big bolts. The Honda had smaller ones. I just kept an eye on them, if they seemed "thin waisted" or seemed to "give" when torquing them, then I'd swap 'em out. Always have a couple spares in case. I also do a dab of locktite on them as well. The Honda's are preloaded with the red stuff when new.

 

[tiggen]

I figured it was a CYA type thing, but since all of this mechanical stuff is new to me, I thought I'd ask. Thanks for the info.