Chain suggestions?

Rydell

Rydell

New Member
Well time has come and my chain is wore out. I have an 06 R6 that's almost alwas on the track... considering this is my first chain shopping experience, anyone care to provide tips or advice?
 
sobottka

sobottka

New Member
any name brand o-ring chain with a rivited master link will do (rk, did, ek whatever). might as well get a 520 with new gears too.
 
Donnyballgame

Donnyballgame

New Member
520 means narrower chain=thinner sprockets and less steel in the chain. That will give you less chain and sprocket to sling around and more hp to turn the tire.
 
Thunderace

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
I have used several of the DID VM 520 chains on my R1's over the years. I got a deal from Moon last year on an RK chain and it's been good to go so far. Most people say not to go the 520 route on the big bikes, but the chain has held up fine for me.

520 setup = less rotating mass = quicker acceleration = quicker wear.
 
Rydell

Rydell

New Member
Sweet. Thanks guys. I think I'll have to go with one of those... any specific brand you recommend? Just go with trackdaystore?

EDIT: Sprocket is ok. The teeth aren't bent / broken. They have a little sign of wear but are ok. Would I need a 520 rear and front sprocket with the 520 chain?
 
Thunderace

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
I usually replace the sprockets when I replace the chain. If the sprocket is even slightly worn, you will wear out the chain faster. Usually, you can get a chain/sprocket combo kit for about $150-$175.
 
KBacon

KBacon

New Member
I've had really good luck w/ DID chains and steel sprockets... Aluminum rear sprockets are lighter... But they wear a lot faster. The chain and sprockets should be changed together... As they wear together... You can get away w/ just a chain... But your chain will wear out faster... And chains cost more than sprockets...

Trackday had the best prices when I was looking the other day... And if you find a better price... They'll match it... And you earn points towards track day credit... That you don't get anywhere else...
 
Goldie

Goldie

Member
I like Drive Systems superlight steel sprockets. They are steel but lighter than you typical OEM steel sprockets. Last longer than aluminum. I'm not racing so a bit more metal on sprockets ain't a big deal to me as long as I get longevity in return, which is the case.
 
Rydell

Rydell

New Member
While were on the subject, how crazy does it sound to do -1 +2 on the 06 R6? I have good cornerspeed, I just cringe when I rev the wee out of my bike to get decent exit speed. And with the R6's it's sort of required. I figured a tooth delete would be best approach for this. Suggestions?
 
sobottka

sobottka

New Member
Rydell;139172 wrote: While were on the subject, how crazy does it sound to do -1 +2 on the 06 R6? I have good cornerspeed, I just cringe when I rev the wee out of my bike to get decent exit speed. And with the R6's it's sort of required. I figured a tooth delete would be best approach for this. Suggestions?
Click to expand...
thats a common place to start but i would suggest -1f+1r for less shifting ..at least here in the mid west. get over the rev thing :notsure: just keep it off the rev limiter.
 
jtsgsxr6

jtsgsxr6

Member
Most chains I've tried have been good, the only one I don't like is the EK srx 520 I have in Natural finish. It does not seem to have any coating or plating, and the plates rust really quick. I constantly clean and lube my chains too. If my bike would sit out one night at the track with this chain and it would rain, the next morning it would be brown with surface rust.

My main chain now is an RK gold, this chain does not rust on the links due to the plating or coating. Plus gold chains are bling bling:D
 
Rydell

Rydell

New Member
EDIT: Found the stock teeth. Also found alot of articles on what number of teeth to run on. Lots of different opinions. I will be a provisional novice racing with WERA next season, I've read on r6messagenet that 17/44 is good for this. And the more experienced riders go 17/43. I was originally suggested 15/47 which seems way off and quite a unique set up. Considering I am in the South east region, and will be on all East side tracks, what would you folks suggest?
 
sobottka

sobottka

New Member
17/43 ??? :doh: seriously? report back here and let us know how that works. you were given good info here.


ediit: maybe that info wasnt given here so here's what i recommend. 15/45-47. at road america (longest/fastest straights in america)i used a 15/43. whoever told you to use a 17 is screwing with you
 
Rydell

Rydell

New Member
Sobottka, all this info was on r6messagenet. Definitely going with your recommendation, though.

Would you mind explaining how this affects the bike? Front sprocket tooth deletion I'm sure adds torque and low end speed, how does the teeth of the rear factor in?
 
sobottka

sobottka

New Member
adding teeth to the rear is the same as dropping teeth on the front. i think 1 front tooth = 3 rear teeth as a standard. the suggestions i've given will lower your overall gearing but every bike i know of needs lower gearing than stock for almost all race tracks

i dont view gearing as most do. most track day guys and new racers generally think in terms of getting the highest rpm in 6th gear without hitting the rev limiter. i tend to think about a compromise between reducing downshifting (which aids heavy braking) and corner exit plus making adjustments to keep off the rev limiter as i approach the brake zones in any given gear
 
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