Gsxr 600 front caliper bolt problem

andersoncm2

New Member
Finally Fixed!!

Well, I finally did it!!!!!! I had just about given up on trying to get the caliper bolts out myself and admit defeat. I was getting ready to call a motorcycle/atv repair shop about 50 miles away, swallow my pride, and pay someone to fix my screw up. Luckily, the metric bolt out set I ordered from Harbor Freight arrived today. I decide to go ahead and give the new tools a chance--heck, all they could do is not work just like the Craftsman set. Harbor Freight design was little different, and they WORKED!!!! Well, they worked on the 2 bolts that just had the heads rounded off. The socket bit hard and deep into the rounded bolt head; however, I still had to put a cheater pipe on the ratchet to get enough leverage to break the bolts loose. No locking compound on either bolt--they were just torqued down to probably 80-100 lbs/ft. Still, the one that I had been trying different techniques on (grinding, drilling, vise grips, voodoo, etc.) was so mangled, that the 12 mm bolt out socket would not take a bite. i tried the 11mm, wouldn't fit, so I hammered it on--but it still wouldn't bite--my attempts to remove this bolt had mangled the head so bad that the 11mm tried to bite, but there was really nothing left to grab on to. I tried the hammer on and try to ratchet off technique numerous times before I just gave up. My next thought was "I'm going to look like a total idiot taking the bike to a mechanic to get 1 bolt loose." I may be horrible with tools, but this thing was NOT going to kick my butt--at least if it did, I was going down with a fight!! I had already tried drilling the head as suggested above a few days ago, but had broken a couple of bits and gave up. So, I took the Dremmel with a cut off wheel and cut the head off the bolt, but the flange was still there. I broke out the drill once more and continued to drill in the previous hole I had started a few days ago. With the head gone, the drilling went much smoother. I was able to skip to some larger bits--all the way up to the largest I had (3/8), but the flange never "twisted off." I just had a 3/8 hole recessed in the bolt. I felt defeated, again--arghhhhhh. I broke out the dremmel again and carfully started cutting notches in the remaing flange. I then took an old screw driver and hammer and broke about 1/3 of the flange away. As I started trying to get the screwdriver under the remaing flange to pry it open and started tapping the hammer, the flange moved--as in the bolt was unscrewing. It couldn't be, could it? Without pressure on the bolt, that sucker just unscrewed--of course, now I had to use some pliers and screw driver to work the bolt around until I could pull it out. After, inspection, I did nick up the caliper bolt hole a little, but not enough to mess it up.

I did make sure when I put in the new bolts, I used anti-seize and torqued to proper specs!!

Thanks to all who gave advice!!!!
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
Awesome! Glad you got them out. Do you have a service manual for your bike? If not, PM me your email address. I'm pretty sure I have a .pdf I can send to you, my bike is also a k7 gsxr 600. If you're doing any work on your bike, the manual is a huge help.
 

andersoncm2

New Member
HondaGalToo;263664 wrote: Awesome! Glad you got them out. Do you have a service manual for your bike? If not, PM me your email address. I'm pretty sure I have a .pdf I can send to you, my bike is also a k7 gsxr 600. If you're doing any work on your bike, the manual is a huge help.
I, also, have a .pdf version of the service manual. However, thanks for offering to send me a copy. Sure makes it easy to just print off the pages you need than to leaf through (and in my case, tear out) pages. Also, when the pages get too greasy and illegible--just toss 'em (or recycle:idea:).

I defintely made sure I used correct torque when replacing the new bolts, unlike the last person who changed my front tire. I also tested to see how much force it took to break loose a properly torqued bolt--needless to say, it took a whole lot less force.

Again, thanks for the advice. I'm sure it will not be the last time I put myself into a jam and come asking for advice.:p
 

ScottG

New Member
andersoncm2;263681 wrote: I, also, have a .pdf version of the service manual. However, thanks for offering to send me a copy. Sure makes it easy to just print off the pages you need than to leaf through (and in my case, tear out) pages. Also, when the pages get too greasy and illegible--just toss 'em (or recycle:idea:).
I separate the pages of my physical manuals and put the pages into document protectors in binders. Greasy fingerprints just wipe right off. and you can use a grease pencil for notes if needed. My manuals have held up well over the years being protecting in the binders. It costs a bit more for all the doc protectors (assuming you don't have an office supply cabinet) but its still cheaper than a new manual.

Scott
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
Glad to see you got the bolt out, finally.

I always thought the whole "drill the bolt out" was one of the shittiest methods to ever actually try to implement. It sounds logical, but as you found out, drilling bolts isn't exactly easy, or fun. Not to mention, if you don't drill it exactly center, you can wind up drilling out a portion of the threading (Fork leg, in this case)...only exaggerating the problem.

The only thing more dumb than that idea is "Use a dremel and cut out a slot, and use a flat head screw driver to remove it". And it's like... dude, if I rounded off the bolt, using the proper sized socket, what the hell makes you think a flat head screwdriver is going to break it loose?!?!
 

bigkaley

Control Rider
Otto Man;263748 wrote: Glad to see you got the bolt out, finally.

I always thought the whole "drill the bolt out" was one of the shittiest methods to ever actually try to implement. It sounds logical, but as you found out, drilling bolts isn't exactly easy, or fun. Not to mention, if you don't drill it exactly center, you can wind up drilling out a portion of the threading (Fork leg, in this case)...only exaggerating the problem.

The only thing more dumb than that idea is "Use a dremel and cut out a slot, and use a flat head screw driver to remove it". And it's like... dude, if I rounded off the bolt, using the proper sized socket, what the hell makes you think a flat head screwdriver is going to break it loose?!?!
In this case, "drilling the bolt out" is actually just drilling the head off the bolt/s which then allows you to remove the caliper and then access the remaining length of the bolt, for which you use a vise grip, etc. to turn the rest of the bolt out without damaging the threads.
For a closed end situation where you can't get access (let's use the example of a broken frame slider bolt), using a Left-handed drill bit will help in trying to back the bolt out while drilling. The important thing is to have a game plan from the start: center punch the broken bolt to get the best chance to start the drilling as close to center as possible. Also, using penetrating spray (PB Blaster, etc) and heat will help breakdown any corrosion. If all else fails, being prepared to completely drill out, tap/cut new threads and step up the size of the bolt/ fastener, or use a thread repair kit (Helicoil, Keenserts, etc).

Lastly with the idea of using the Dremel to cut a slot, then the best method would be to use an impact driver to shock/ loosen and hopefully remove the broken/ damaged fastener.

Work on your bike/s long enough and at some point you'll end up using each of these methods.... hopefully with easier/quicker success each time. ;)
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
bigkaley;263903 wrote: Work on your bike/s long enough and at some point you'll end up using each of these methods.... hopefully with easier/quicker success each time. ;)
I was a ASE tech for several years, working in a state that was dead nuts in the rust belt of the East coast.

Yeah...I've covered each method, several times.

By far the easiest, if the situation allows, is to heat it up with a torch and vise grip it out.

The whole slot and dremel thing is still useless. because even using an impact driver, the flat head is so small and frail they commonly explode upon impact anyways. I'm sure it's worked for many people, but you won't see me using that method anytime soon.

I just got done safety wiring pretty much everything on my virgin R6, so I'm still a bit bitter with anything that involves drilling. :)

Probably why everyone looks at me like I'm crazy when I put never seize on pretty much any bolt I encounter... LOL
 

D-Zum

My 13 year old is faster than your President
The shop/mechanics manual also works nicely to be on your smart phone or your tablet. That way you don't have to carry anything extra..your manual's in your pocket.
 
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