Harbor Freight Trailer

TeamBeer

TeamBeer

Member
I bought a new Harbor Freight 4X8 Folding trailer last week and got it mostly assembled yesterday. Not too bad of a project, but I was glad my son was around to help me. Those Chinese are really into precision...the holes for the lock pins are nowhere near lined up, but that shouldn't be too hard to fix. I am curious how other people have setup this trailer or similar lightweight trailers for hauling a bike and gear. I have a wheel chock for the trailer but was also curious what people thinnk of the Pit Bull Trailer Restraint system.
 
some guy #2

some guy #2

Member
I use a condor wheel chock (baxley is another good one) but wouldn't use the pingel tube type ones. The Pitbull TRS looks really nice but it also costs 2/3 what the trailer does!

I've hauled 2 bikes on mine to Barber and Road Atlanta at 70+ and no problems. Keep the tires aired up and squirt some grease in the axles every trip and you'll be set.
 
Saltman

Saltman

Member
Everyone who has them love them. I plan on going the same route next month. HF trailer with PB restraint. Put 4x8 3/4 thick wood down and bolt it down.
 
lplonske

lplonske

New Member
just got two Pitbull TRS for new new trailer, install was super easy and the bike seems solid. My first test will be driving to Roebling in a week and a half
 
HondaGalToo

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
barry38;172259 wrote: The Pit Bull TRS is by far the quickest. easiest, safest way to secure a bike on a trailer.
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:agree: And if you get a different trailer in the future, no problem to remove the plate and reinstall in a different trailer.

I've used various tie-down configurations over the years, the Pitbull TRS is one of the best things I've purchased.
 
TeamBeer

TeamBeer

Member
Ok, you all convinced me and I ordered the Pit Bull TRS even though it cost almost as much as the trailer. I hate having to screw with straps.

Did you put any kind of support under the plywood when you mounted it?
 
erick1670

erick1670

Member
this is how I got mine with one bike and 2 bikes, I have it with Strapless system but I have to say that the Pitbull is much eazier.....

DSC00075.jpg

DSC00077.jpg


one bike

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I place my ramp in front of it and I am thinking to place my generator in the free space you see at front...
 
erick1670

erick1670

Member
TeamBeer;172272 wrote: Ok, you all convinced me and I ordered the Pit Bull TRS even though it cost almost as much as the trailer. I hate having to screw with straps.

Did you put any kind of support under the plywood when you mounted it?
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yes, I did b/c the plywood flex too much for my liking so I did place a pece of metal that you can get at home depot to support the mouting plates so they are more regith, the metal peces were 4'x1.5"

this is how it goes in mine but you will have to do it along the side the red supporting pece of the trailer
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and this is the pece of metal I use
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some guy #2

some guy #2

Member
I did not brace the plywood on my folding trailer. My chock base plate is mounted only to the plywood with some washers on the bottom. No complaints so far and I've removed the base plate quite a few times with no problems.
 
mattf

mattf

New Member
You can't kill an HF trailer. I've had mine for years, and I've hauled everything from my street bikes to my track bikes to my dirt bikes to oversized Beemers (plus couches, junk, etc) everywhere. Great little do-it-all trailer. Good luck!

Oh, and the PitBull TRS is the way to go.
 
rk97

rk97

Member
some guy #2;172281 wrote: I did not brace the plywood on my folding trailer. My chock base plate is mounted only to the plywood with some washers on the bottom. No complaints so far and I've removed the base plate quite a few times with no problems.
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Same here, but I'm considering adding something more substantial.

On the Pit-Bull TRS instructions, I believe it says that 3/4 inch (treated) wood is fine, but they can't account for the condition of the wood itself. The wood decking is undeniably the weakest link.

with that in mind, I've strongly considered putting a 2x6 under that portion of the trailer just to act as a giant washer...

the alternative is to buy a second pit-bull base plate. I think they run $30 or so. Quite reasonable.
 
jcurtis

jcurtis

Control Rider
N2
That is the same thickness of plywood inside enclosed trailers... not too different....Just make sure it is exterior grade plywood (marine grade) and put a poly on it or another type of sealer and reapply as necessary.

Second base underneath if fine as well, the metal is much stronger... just not the additional mounting plates with all the holes, the ones that are mostly solid. You could probably make one yourself.
 
TeamBeer

TeamBeer

Member
Well I started on the lights last night and the cheap Chinese wiring harness doesn't make good contact with the connector on my car. After messing with it for a while I was able to get the left side to light up, but I don't think I want something that hit or miss. I will probably just go buy a wiring harness at Autozone (I know it will be Chinese too), but I will be able to look at it first. All of the wires were good, it was just a matter of the plug being crap.

I am also curious how you have run the wires. The clips they provide don't stay on very well and there isn't a clear path through the frame. It seems like I should find some sort of conduit to protect the wiring.
 
jcurtis

jcurtis

Control Rider
N2
Yes, the wiring is kind of cheap. I used the enclosed wires and tried to run them on the inside bottom flange of the outside channel support. If you are going to fold it at some point build in a little slack by overlapping a bit and clip it so it is easy to remove that one clip so you can fold it without damaging the clips. Not sure if the wiring is the same, but mine lasted about 3 years and I was going to replace it just before I sold it. It did not look pretty but it did the job. HF sells a replacement wiring harness as well.

I would keep an extra wiring harness on hand and check the lights before each tow (as you should).
 
rk97

rk97

Member
TeamBeer;172405 wrote: Well I started on the lights last night and the cheap Chinese wiring harness doesn't make good contact with the connector on my car. After messing with it for a while I was able to get the left side to light up, but I don't think I want something that hit or miss. I will probably just go buy a wiring harness at Autozone (I know it will be Chinese too), but I will be able to look at it first. All of the wires were good, it was just a matter of the plug being crap.

I am also curious how you have run the wires. The clips they provide don't stay on very well and there isn't a clear path through the frame. It seems like I should find some sort of conduit to protect the wiring.
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I bought a new plug from Uhaul and just spliced that onto the HF wiring harness. It's been solid for the last year; you just have to realize that the harness they supply is a 5 wire system, and the Uhaul connectors are 4-wire. Just means you have to wire the marker lights to the same connection.

As for routing the wires, their clips work better than you would think, but I still ran it through the frame where possible.

Like Jim said; be sure to leave enough slack that you can fold the trailer. Running the wires with the trailer upright and folded works nicely. Then just use loose zip-ties to hold the slack high enough that it doesn't drag.

My ground wire comes out more often than I'd like... I should really solder it and get it over with.
 
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