Let's talk hole shot...
- Thread starter vinny337
- Start date
Go to the local 1/8mi drag strip for a Test & Tune day. Should be about $20 for as many runs as you are going to want to make. I always started well just couldn't ride for sh!t after the first corner haha. If you are on a 06 750 there is not much need to rev the shit out of it and slip the clutch. I never looked at the tach and just went by feel. I would slip the clutch a little, try to have my feet on the pegs and the clutch released and WO throttle ASAP. I didn't mind the front wheel in the air and would try to keep it about 6" off the ground through 1st and 2nd gear. Never started on a 600 and I doubt you could get a good start on an R6 like that. Take a buddy to the drag strip so you can have some bragging rights afterward.
And you will need to adjust your brake markers for T1 since you will be going slower than havnig a full run down the straight. I never did the pit row practice start but it is good to go ahead and get on it when rolling out for the sight-in lap so you can get a feel on how deep to go into the first turn from the start.
If by "feel" you mean peak torque...then youre correct. Can you launch an R6 just as hard? Yessir
600s generally dont make much usable torque so it takes some RPM to get them moving versus a 750 or 1k.
Back in the days of AMA/Prostar there were factory kit boxes that allowed the 600s to leave at 15000 rpm.
On a dyno it was shown to give an additional 10hp at redline over a stock one. A drag strip is good to practice at. Those that say 1/8 mile tracks suck just dont get it. You cant run a good 1/4 mile without a good 1/8th time. Well unless you have a high horsepower vehicle that can pickup 40mph on the back half.
Benchmark for good 60' time is 1.7. Should be able to cut that time on just about any stock height/wheelbase motorcycle. Next time you want is your 330. Should be in the low 4 second range (4.4 or less) . I would not bother "strapping" or "lowering" the bike as this wont help you with roadracing/track riding. It will shed some ET... but the point of going to the dragstrip is to get the bike moving as you ride it. oh and reaction time means bupkiss at a test & tune. The light can go green and you can sit there for 5 seconds if you want. Just focus on your short times at first. As you get a feel for the process... then you can start trying to use the "tree" to get you rolling.
Heres a vid of a good launch but poor entry into turn 1...lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17cXpuUn57g
some guy #2
Member
Even if I get a less than stellar start going deeper into 1 can make up some ground. Since you're going slower I feel more comfortable making hard passes on people.
I should also mention that bikes with slipper clutches may not like you "slipping" the clutch to get rolling. The old "snap & slide" maybe elicit a squall or chatter from your clutch. On my 06 GSXR it felt like I was rolling over some whoops. Those bikes are easy to disable the slipper and have cable operation. Hydraulic clutches really eliminate engagement feel. The slipper gives you a smaller engagement window.
Also some factory clutches tend to use small fibers/jutter springs to help street riders from killing themselves by flipping over backward and keeping the clutch lever soft so don't be suprised if you need heavier springs or your clutch stack rearranged to suit your preference.
Also some factory clutches tend to use small fibers/jutter springs to help street riders from killing themselves by flipping over backward and keeping the clutch lever soft so don't be suprised if you need heavier springs or your clutch stack rearranged to suit your preference.
I learned by riding dirt bikes all my life.
The first thing I would do is study your dyno results and determine at what RPM range your bike makes the most torque. Torque is a measure of how much a force acting on an object causes that object to rotate, i.e. torque turns the rear tire and gets you moving.
My dyno chart indicates that my bike begins to make substantial torque at 5,000 RPM. It continues to produce increased torque up to about 11,500 RPM at peak. Then, it gradually tapers off. The difference in torque in that range is about 12 foot pounds. So, I know that launching in that 5k - 11.5k RPM range is good. Anything below 5k and above 11.5k is a waste. The higher in that 5k - 11.5k RPM range I can launch, the more torque I will have available at the rear tire. I recommend making an indication on the tachometer with a paint pen so that your peak-torque RPM is easily located.
Next, you'll want to locate the proper box to line up in and get to it. Placing a piece of tape on the tank with the box number for that sprint is helpful.
After you've lined up in the box, slide as far back in the saddle as you can get so you don't slip backwards when you ease off the clutch.
Plant your feet in a normal stance. You don't need to place your feet as far back as you can get them. You want to minimize the distance that you have to move your feet to return them to the pegs. Drag racers kick their feet way back, but their pegs are in very close proximity to the feet when placed on the ground.
Lean forward like you're tucked in for a long straightaway. You want to load the front-end with weight to help keep it down, if you are too aggressive with the clutch and throttle. You also don't want the tank smacking you in the face. If the bike wants to wheelie, you want your body to come up with the bike, not the bike come up to you.
Now, it's about feathering the clutch and working the throttle. Regarding the clutch, you're working between the area when it's is just starting to grab and it's about half engaged. When the clutch starts to engage, you are placing a load on the engine and RPMs will decrease. You'll want to give positive throttle to keep the RPMs up. It's been my experience that:
[list type=decimal][*]Too much clutch and too much throttle, and the bike wheelies, maybe badly.[*]Too much clutch and too little throttle, and you kill the engine.Too little clutch and too much throttle and you're going nowhere fast.Too little clutch and too little throttle, and your competition leaves you in the dust.[/list type=decimal]
By this time, you should be moving. Now, you need to return your feet to pegs to cover the brake and shifter pronto! This is a very important step. If you've launched properly, you will be upshifting pretty quickly. If the bike wheelies badly, you can tap the rear brake to bring the front end down, else ride it out, if you're comfortable. You can also disengage the clutch or close the throttle to remove the wheelie.
Don't forget to steer!
Pick your line and fill in the gap. If you've launched better than the other riders, you need somewhere to go. Open space, preferably on the track surface, is always a wise decision.
The rest is history...
Ultimately, knowing the right combination of clutch and throttle to execute the perfect launch is nothing anyone can tell you. You will have to learn by yourself. You will get to a point where you can judge RPMs by feel. A test & tune night at the local drag strip is a perfect place to practice. Riding dirt bikes is great education too. There's nothing like throwing a 30 foot roost in the mud.
The first thing I would do is study your dyno results and determine at what RPM range your bike makes the most torque. Torque is a measure of how much a force acting on an object causes that object to rotate, i.e. torque turns the rear tire and gets you moving.
My dyno chart indicates that my bike begins to make substantial torque at 5,000 RPM. It continues to produce increased torque up to about 11,500 RPM at peak. Then, it gradually tapers off. The difference in torque in that range is about 12 foot pounds. So, I know that launching in that 5k - 11.5k RPM range is good. Anything below 5k and above 11.5k is a waste. The higher in that 5k - 11.5k RPM range I can launch, the more torque I will have available at the rear tire. I recommend making an indication on the tachometer with a paint pen so that your peak-torque RPM is easily located.
Next, you'll want to locate the proper box to line up in and get to it. Placing a piece of tape on the tank with the box number for that sprint is helpful.
After you've lined up in the box, slide as far back in the saddle as you can get so you don't slip backwards when you ease off the clutch.
Plant your feet in a normal stance. You don't need to place your feet as far back as you can get them. You want to minimize the distance that you have to move your feet to return them to the pegs. Drag racers kick their feet way back, but their pegs are in very close proximity to the feet when placed on the ground.
Lean forward like you're tucked in for a long straightaway. You want to load the front-end with weight to help keep it down, if you are too aggressive with the clutch and throttle. You also don't want the tank smacking you in the face. If the bike wants to wheelie, you want your body to come up with the bike, not the bike come up to you.
Now, it's about feathering the clutch and working the throttle. Regarding the clutch, you're working between the area when it's is just starting to grab and it's about half engaged. When the clutch starts to engage, you are placing a load on the engine and RPMs will decrease. You'll want to give positive throttle to keep the RPMs up. It's been my experience that:
[list type=decimal][*]Too much clutch and too much throttle, and the bike wheelies, maybe badly.[*]Too much clutch and too little throttle, and you kill the engine.Too little clutch and too much throttle and you're going nowhere fast.Too little clutch and too little throttle, and your competition leaves you in the dust.[/list type=decimal]
By this time, you should be moving. Now, you need to return your feet to pegs to cover the brake and shifter pronto! This is a very important step. If you've launched properly, you will be upshifting pretty quickly. If the bike wheelies badly, you can tap the rear brake to bring the front end down, else ride it out, if you're comfortable. You can also disengage the clutch or close the throttle to remove the wheelie.
Don't forget to steer!
Pick your line and fill in the gap. If you've launched better than the other riders, you need somewhere to go. Open space, preferably on the track surface, is always a wise decision.
The rest is history...
Ultimately, knowing the right combination of clutch and throttle to execute the perfect launch is nothing anyone can tell you. You will have to learn by yourself. You will get to a point where you can judge RPMs by feel. A test & tune night at the local drag strip is a perfect place to practice. Riding dirt bikes is great education too. There's nothing like throwing a 30 foot roost in the mud.
ceptorman
Member
All you need to do is hold the throttle all the way open until the red limiter kicks in, you know that technique that the squids already have down, then instantly pop the clutch, and just deal with itvinny337;294615 wrote: Definitely a technique that will take some practice to learn. What’s your technique and how did some of you racers become successful at this? Elaborate please, rant if you have to…I won't use it against you
Quickone4u
Member
Sounds legit!ceptorman;298665 wrote: All you need to do is hold the throttle all the way open until the red limiter kicks in, you know that technique that the squids already have down, then instantly pop the clutch, and just deal with it