R1 fishtailing

[The Chad]

One other thing I would suggest also (after you get your basics taken care of) is when you make changes on your rebound and compression make BIG changes not just one click and only change one (rebound or compression) at time, that way you will be able to feel what it has done and then go back 1/2 of what you did your change to and feel what it is doing. Do this for both Comp and Rebound. Once you get it dialed in to where it is working you should only have to change a few clicks here and there depending on tracks, temperature, tire wear and riding conditions.

You need to learn exactly what the changes do and if you make multiple changes at once it will be harder to learn what those changes do to the handling, by doing one thing at a time you will learn it all quicker. Well, that way worked for me

 

[vinny337]

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[blueninja1]

i don't know how much it would help but you could apply some rear brake right before you brake with the front to minimize the weight shift forward and make the bike more level. worth a shot.

 

[ninjamansc]

blueninja1;165394 wrote: i don't know how much it would help but you could apply some rear brake right before you brake with the front to minimize the weight shift forward and make the bike more level. worth a shot.

This may have some merit. When I did the Yamaha Champion's school, one of the drills was lapping using only the rear brake. I was stunned by how much speed can be scrubbed with only engine braking and judicious use of the rear brake. Of course, that's the only time I've ever used the rear, so I could've been imagining it. :dunno:

 

[blueninja1]

ninjamsc can i ask a question? Did you notice a big difference in how you were able to take the corner just using the rear brake? I imagine the front end would feel very light, is this true? Did it affect your confidence? Lol sorry to ask so many questions, i'm very curious.

 

[sobottka]

blueninja1;165394 wrote: i don't know how much it would help but you could apply some rear brake right before you brake with the front to minimize the weight shift forward and make the bike more level. worth a shot.

the only way to "minimize" weight transfer (which is not a bad thing) is to not use the front brake, plus the bike needs to be on its nose (not level) to turn properly. if you are refering to the op's problem, he already is lacking weight transfer via over stiff springs

 

[blueninja1]

you may be aware of something i am not. just wanted to support my case if i can. i think someone before stated that a fishtailing bike can be attributed to the rear wheel lifting off of the ground/losing the contact patch with the floor. In a way to keep that contact patch and maintain grip, the initial application of the rear brake will settle the rear. Visualize the bike squatting at the rear. As a rider brakes into the corner, yes you do want the front to kneel and with the application of the front brake the bike will grip into the corner. As you say, the bike may be too stiff, but changing riding technique can also help a rider ride around the problem. By applying a small amount of initial rear brake, it will not significantly stop the bike kneeling and hence, he can corner as usual. Just my .02

Another thing you may not notice is that the line you choose may be bumpy, which can also contribute to unsettling the bike. You may want to vary your lines. I am by no means a pro at setting up a bike, so the cr will be of more use to you there, however I have dealt with fishtailing on a daily basis, controlling the slide, analyzing what conditions cause it, etc.

-brendon

 

[slowpoke]

^^ i would not introduce the rear brake or change your line.

Tons of great advice on here all of which points to getting your bike correctly sprung and then dialed in. Any one of us would be happy to follow you on the track to see if there's any additional rider inputs that are upsetting the bike.

 

[sobottka]

blueninja1;165461 wrote: you may be aware of something i am not. just wanted to support my case if i can. i think someone before stated that a fishtailing bike can be attributed to the rear wheel lifting off of the ground/losing the contact patch with the floor. In a way to keep that contact patch and maintain grip, the initial application of the rear brake will settle the rear. Visualize the bike squatting at the rear. As a rider brakes into the corner, yes you do want the front to kneel and with the application of the front brake the bike will grip into the corner. As you say, the bike may be too stiff, but changing riding technique can also help a rider ride around the problem. By applying a small amount of initial rear brake, it will not significantly stop the bike kneeling and hence, he can corner as usual. Just my .02

Another thing you may not notice is that the line you choose may be bumpy, which can also contribute to unsettling the bike. You may want to vary your lines. I am by no means a pro at setting up a bike, so the cr will be of more use to you there, however I have dealt with fishtailing on a daily basis, controlling the slide, analyzing what conditions cause it, etc.

-brendon

lofting te rear wheel during braking has nothing to do with "fishtailing", keep in mind that during heavy braking you should not have enough weight on the rear wheel to effectively slow you down ....or "you aint brakin hard enough!". this is why people say they use the rear brake to "set up for a corner", applying rear brake to a bike that is already unstable under braking is probably not a good idea. if the bike fishtails under heavy braking it will do the same even if you start off with a little rear brake because you're still transfering the same amount of weight to the front ...on the over stiff springs

 

[blueninja1]

thank you for the words of wisdom. i shall remember this ; ]