Rear brake pads touching the rotor

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R6_Fred

New Member
I got new tires mounted yesterday and put them back on the bike last night. I went ahead and changed the front brake pads (got some Galfer organic pads), but didn't do anything with the rears. But after I installed the rear calipers and mounted it over the rotors, the rear wheel wasn't spinning very freely; a part of the pads was touching the rotor with every rotation. I knew that light touching was normal and that it'll get fixed during the first few miles of riding, but when I finished the install and tried to go for a ride, even moving the bike in neutral seemed a bit harder than before.

Anyway, this morning I went for a ride and I didn't have any feel/effect on my rear brakes. So when I stopped, I touched the rear rotor and it was HOT!! Like I spat a bit on my finger and touched the rotor and it sizzled. That's not normal, right? Are the calipers not releasing the pads fully back? Do I have to use a C-clamp to push them back manually?
 
matt2212

matt2212

Member
I always clean the caliper pistons and bleed the brakes whenever I do pad changes

Pull the pads and clean w break clean and a toothbrush then you should be able to push the pistons in by hand reinstall pads, pump up brakes, add some new fluid then bleed them
 
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R6_Fred

New Member
Thanks Matt. I wasn't doing a pad change on the rear (I did that only for the fronts and they are fine), so I simply put everything back the way I found them. But during the removal and install, is there a chance the pistons moved in front a bit? I'm going to take another look and remove them and clean them, but I don't have a bleeder system handy and I have a track day tomorrow :(
 
matt2212

matt2212

Member
In my truck so please excuse the typing

Yes something could have slipped sideways so if u remove and clean then push the pistons back it will allow things to realign.

Clean before pushing them in, keeps dirt out of seals where it can make prob worse

To blead you just need a pice of fish tank air hose put it over blender valve hold pressure on brake w 1 hand and crack bleeder hold pressure down on lever until fluid stoops coming out and you have closed the bleeder, pump 3-4 times until firm and repeat
 
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R6_Fred

New Member
Got it. Will try that first. If it doesn't work, will swing by AutoZone and pickup a bleeder kit.

Worst case, I'll just disconnect the rear brakes on the track :). Don't really need it, do I?
 
HondaGalToo

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
R6_Fred;246007 wrote: Got it. Will try that first. If it doesn't work, will swing by AutoZone and pickup a bleeder kit.

Worst case, I'll just disconnect the rear brakes on the track :). Don't really need it, do I?
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Agree with Matt's suggestions. You may be joking, but you won't pass tech with no rear brake. And should you go moto, you'll need that rear brake. :)
 
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R6_Fred

New Member
HondaGalToo;246008 wrote: Agree with Matt's suggestions. You may be joking, but you won't pass tech with no rear brake. And should you go moto, you'll need that rear brake. :)
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Actually, I wasn't joking :(. I've read threads that said people don't ever touch their rear brakes and couldn't care if it was disconnected.

So on a side note, coming down a straight-away and braking heavily for a corner, should I start with the front, but reel in the rear brakes as well? How much before I start feeling the rear slide?
 
stow

stow

New Member
Did you forget a spacer by any chance? I have seen this happen before. I had a friend change out his rear tire once and the spacer fell out during removal and rolled under his tool box. He never saw it so he didn't know it needed a spacer. Needless to say his rotor was getting very hot.
 
HondaGalToo

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
I never use the rear brake on the track, either. On the street for emegency stops yeah. But, as I said, if you end up in the grass, you'll want rear brake only. Plus, even though many of us don't use them on the track, they're required to pass tech. ;)
 
stow

stow

New Member
R6_Fred;246015 wrote: Not that I know about! Is there a spacer between the caliper mounting bracket and the rotor?
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R6? I know there is a spacer between the caliper bracket and the wheel. Make sure the mounting bracket is properly position in the swing arm retaining/alignment slot.
 
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R6_Fred

New Member
stow;246020 wrote: R6? I know there is a spacer between the caliper bracket and the wheel. Make sure the mounting bracket is properly position in the swing arm retaining/alignment slot.
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I did double check that the mounting bracket is sitting in the alignment slot. But there are no spacers, either between the bracket and the rotor OR the bracket and the wheel. If there is one, wouldn't it push the pads closer to the rotor and make it rub some more?

There's a washer/spacer on the outside going on the axle along with the axle nut; should that go on the inside?
 
stow

stow

New Member
R6_Fred;246028 wrote: Wow, cool site! Thanks Stow!
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No problem. I haven't worked on an R6 in over a year, so that part could be an internal wheel part, but from what I can remember it is a spacer.
 
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