Stripped fork pinch bolt...

[Handicapped Racer]

As long as the bolt is only stripped off and not cross threaded, I can tell you how to get the bolt out.

The pinch bolt is a 8mm x 1.25mm thread pitch, find a drill bit that is slightly larger than the body of the bolt, spray the bolt with Wd40 or cutting oil. Make sure the drill bit is in good sharp condition. start slowly drilling into the center of that damaged bolt head, putting firm pressure on the back of the drill. "slow steady drilling cuts better than fast drilling" keep drilling until you cut through the mushroomed part or head of the bolt. Eventually you will cut through the head of the bolt and into the body. The head will fall off and as long as you did not strip the bolt you can the use a left handed bit to back the bolt out. Very easy to do if you follow directions.

 

[Ruhe52]

Stripped fork pinch bolt...

15 lbs is the recommended torque spec to begin with.

Yep my thought was the other bolt is already loose and thus putting way more pressure on the one remaining.. Tighten that side down and take some load off the bolt giving you the trouble. have seen people round out bolts that were in fine simply by over tight bolts to start with but also just pulling the easiest completely out and then making the other a biotch to remove.

One other assumption on many posters here. Were you able to get the ez out that snapped off removed? None of the drilling of said bolt head works with out that being done.

 

[Handicapped Racer]

Ruhe52;299657 wrote: Yep my thought was the other bolt is already loose and thus putting way more pressure on the one remaining.. Tighten that side down and take some load off the bolt giving you the trouble. have seen people round out bolts that were in fine simply by over tight bolts to start with but also just pulling the easiest completely out and then making the other a biotech to remove.

One other assumption on many posters here. Were you able to get the ez out that snapped off removed? None of the drilling of said bolt head works with out that being done.

If he snapped a easyoff in the bolt, it's much tighter than 15ftlbs.

 

[devildogae]

Ruhe52;299657 wrote: Yep my thought was the other bolt is already loose and thus putting way more pressure on the one remaining.. Tighten that side down and take some load off the bolt giving you the trouble. have seen people round out bolts that were in fine simply by over tight bolts to start with but also just pulling the easiest completely out and then making the other a biotech to remove.

One other assumption on many posters here. Were you able to get the ez out that snapped off removed? None of the drilling of said bolt head works with out that being done.

I haven't got it out yet, but I've tried. I've broke some of it off with a center punch, but it's very imbedded. I'm going to try and jbweld an alen head in there and or use a left turning bit. Haven't been able to get back to it, prolly until next week sometime.

 

[Lonewrench]

you guys are fucking killing me, ship it to the shop i'll fix it for free

 

[griffonrider]

Lonewrench;299997 wrote: you guys are fucking killing me, ship it to the shop i'll fix it for free

Statement like this are exactly the reason your stock is so high in my book

 

[komodo_goods]

hahahaha perfect Chuck

 

[Handicapped Racer]

Lonewrench;299997 wrote: you guys are fucking killing me, ship it to the shop i'll fix it for free

Chuck you da man, but I think I read that he can't seperate the wheel from the fork. He would have to dis-assemble the front end to be able to box up a fork and axle for you to service.

 

[Mike55]

Ok I've kept an eye on this thread and have one more suggestion. Check to see if there is enough space in the gap at the bottom of the fork to fit a small cutting wheel. If so, try to slowly and carefully cut the pinch bolt in half. That will take the tension off and then it's just a matter of spinning the two halves out of the threads. This would obviously be easier to do if it's the outside bolt. I'm not saying that it's the answer since I'm not there to see it first hand, but you seem to be running out of options. Drilling and re-tapping it is the obvious final choice but will be difficult with a broken easy-out wedged in it and without the luxury of using a press.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

 

[Handicapped Racer]

Mike55;300011 wrote: Ok I've kept an eye on this thread and have one more suggestion. Check to see if there is enough space in the gap at the bottom of the fork to fit a small cutting wheel. If so, try to slowly and carefully cut the pinch bolt in half. That will take the tension off and then it's just a matter of spinning the two halves out of the threads. This would obviously be easier to do if it's the outside bolt. I'm not saying that it's the answer since I'm not there to see it first hand, but you seem to be running out of options. Drilling and re-tapping it is the obvious final choice but will be difficult with a broken easy-out wedged in it and without the luxury of using a press.

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To do properly "if at all possible" would require both items to be held in something that is stationary. Cutting aluminum with a cut off wheel is not optimal. It will cake the cut off wheel with aluminum especially when one won't be able to control the movement of the tool. Even if you can get a wheel inside the id of two areas the jerking sensation of the tool will damage the Id clearance, thus potentially causing another problem upon tightening due to the lack of material, which will intern possibly brake the stanction if over tightened too far, and bring him back to ground zero "fork Fubar".

Something's are over people head and it's ok. If chuck wants fix it I'd say yank the front end and ship it to him before you make a bad situation worse.

 

[Mike55]

I agree with that assessment of my suggestion. I'm just thinking that the cost of shipping an entire front end with a wheel attached to a shop and back would be more expensive and time consuming than just trashing the lower fork leg to remove the wheel and then buying one from ebay. If that's the case he may as well explore all other avenues and if he ends up saving the lower leg then it's a bonus.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

 

[Handicapped Racer]

Mike55;300016 wrote: I agree with that assessment of my suggestion. I'm just thinking that the cost of shipping an entire front end with a wheel attached to a shop and back would be more expensive and time consuming than just trashing the lower fork leg to remove the wheel and then buying one from ebay. If that's the case he may as well explore all other avenues and if he ends up saving the lower leg then it's a bonus.

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I think if he yanks the entire front end he can dis-assemble down to the fork and axle. It may be a odd shaped parcel but doable.

 

[Mike55]

Also, if he can cut the bolt and relieve the tension on the axle, at least he can remove the wheel and fork tube to address the problem. Right now he's kind of a sitting duck.

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[griffonrider]

Mike55;300018 wrote: Also, if he can cut the bolt and relieve the tension on the axle, at least he can remove the wheel and fork tube to address the problem. Right now he's kind of a sitting duck.

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It's not a sitting Duc. It's a lame Kaw. Don't worry, I won't quit my day gig

 

[Mike55]

Ok upon further consideration I'm going to highly recommend that you stop right where you are and seek out a reputable shop to take it to. It sounds like this can only snowball on you. The $50 they might charge (at the most) to extract the bolt will be well worth it. The offer from Chuck is probably your best bet, but that would require further disassebly and potential damage. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

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[devildogae]

Mike55;300011 wrote: Ok I've kept an eye on this thread and have one more suggestion. Check to see if there is enough space in the gap at the bottom of the fork to fit a small cutting wheel. If so, try to slowly and carefully cut the pinch bolt in half. That will take the tension off and then it's just a matter of spinning the two halves out of the threads. This would obviously be easier to do if it's the outside bolt. I'm not saying that it's the answer since I'm not there to see it first hand, but you seem to be running out of options. Drilling and re-tapping it is the obvious final choice but will be difficult with a broken easy-out wedged in it and without the luxury of using a press.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

I've thought about this, but don't have any room to cut the bolt, it's pinched pretty tight. I would have to cut through the aluminum fork.

 

[devildogae]

Lonewrench;299997 wrote: you guys are fucking killing me, ship it to the shop i'll fix it for free

Chuck, I might take you up on that offer, and get everything refreshed, thanks for the offer.

 

[devildogae]

Handicapped Racer;300013 wrote: To do properly "if at all possible" would require both items to be held in something that is stationary. Cutting aluminum with a cut off wheel is not optimal. It will cake the cut off wheel with aluminum especially when one won't be able to control the movement of the tool. Even if you can get a wheel inside the id of two areas the jerking sensation of the tool will damage the Id clearance, thus potentially causing another problem upon tightening due to the lack of material, which will intern possibly brake the stanction if over tightened too far, and bring him back to ground zero "fork Fubar".

Something's are over people head and it's ok. If chuck wants fix it I'd say yank the front end and ship it to him before you make a bad situation worse.

Indeed, going to try again tomorrow or Tuesday! I'll post some pics.

 

[flynlow69]

Putting the bolt in beside it is a must. Did the ones you got out have loctite on them? I've had a few bolts jammed up with loctite. Broke them loose with a little heat on the thread side.

thanks for keeping this going with updates.

Good luck!

 

[devildogae]

Been crazy with the snow and v-day, I will let you guys know when I get back at it