Tech Question and a small update on Humpty Dumpty

HavocCat

Chris
So, I got Humpty Dumpty back together today, however in the process of the rebuild I developed an issue...

I took the opportunity of crashing as a good excuse to buy some new fancy clip ons that I have been frothing over for a while. When I got them installed with my replacement upper, I found that I have a slight rubbing on the top of the fairing when at max turn left or right. When turned right, the throttle cable housings are just barely coming in to contact with the upper part of the fairing. When turned left, the plastic housing for the mode switch buttons and old high beam switch comes in to contact.

I have checked function of all controls at all steering angles, it does not cause any issue to running any of them such as clutch, brake, throttle returnability...

So my question is, is a slight contact like this a failable tech item? I took my 90 degree angle grinder and ground off the sharp corner of the plastic housing on the clutch side, however I am not sure how I would go about making the throttle cable housings not contact.

I will attach some pictures to show you all what I am looking at.

BvrR4HF.jpg

Here is a general overall picture of how it turned out. Do these lever guards look unusually low to anyone? They don't contact the fairing, but this is the optimal angle for effectiveness for where I have my levers at.

PR0Pd84.jpg

Here is the throttle side. You can see at the left side of the picture, there is gap between the brake and the lever guard, but the throttle cables are just contacting the upper part of the fairing.

IQ79MtB.jpg

Another throttle side shot, backed out a little bit.

XuRhnXh.jpg

Here is the clutch side.

6PkBDs9.jpg

A side shot of the clutch side. I should note here that the clutch lever never contacts the fairing anywhere in the turning radius. And the mode switch is not affected either. The only part hitting is the plastic housing.

GPEurx6.jpg

Another angle of the clutch side. I have never set up aftermarket clip ons before, so I just sat on the bike and put the clip ons and levers where I thought they were comfortable... If any of it looks off to anyone please let me know! :rolleyes:
 

vinny337

Vin is in...Beastmode!
Control Rider
Hav,
It's your call, eventually you'll need to replace the OEM parts with the quick throttle and on/off switch. You'll have more room to make adjustments…
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
Agree with the Vin. I think you're fine. You've said the throttle snaps back at full lock in either direction and that there isn't a chance of the clutch switch hitting and getting broken.
My throttle cables hit the fairing when I turn the bars all the way to the right, too. Hasn't caused any problems other than scratched paint. ;)

Are your cables hitting when the bars are straight? If so, might be worth rotating the levers up just a tick.
 

adotjdot

Control Rider
ATP/3C
Hey HavocCat,
Thanks for the update and checking in with us! Always good to see people addressing issues like this before they get to the track. So when I am looking at a bike during tech, I am looking for a few things with regards to controls.
1) Throttle snap back at all steering angles, lock to lock
2) No binding of cables, lock to lock
3) No interference of controls with any other part of the bike, lock to lock
4) The ability to apply all of the controls with both hands on the bars without interference from other parts of the bike, lock to lock
So it sounds like you are good with #1-3, but based on the pics you may have a problem with #4. While it is rare if never that we will ever be at full lock while we are out on the track, my concern would be that during a situation such as head shake or anything that would create a need to make a drastic adjustment to your steering, that there is a possibility that you would get your hand caught in between the bar and the bodywork and not be able to properly apply the brakes or the throttle would stick open with your hand jammed in there.
My suggestion would be to sit on the bike with the bars just loose enough to move in and out, and the controls just loose enough to twist up and down, and get them right to the point where they are comfortable for your body position as you would be leaned over into a corner (butt slid over, toe on end of peg, hips open, bent at waist, head down and elbow bent). Snug the bars and controls down and retest your lock to lock to see if there is still interference while you have your hands on the controls.
This is a borderline tech yes/no for me. Something I would probably have to see in person but wanted to let you know what I would be looking for. Thanks!
 

NegativeCamber

Bob
Control Rider
I agree with A.J. The first thing I noticed was the lever angles. You definitely want total control of your bars and levers, lock to lock. Your hands have the chance of getting knocked off during a tank slapper. And there is potential for bad things happening in the paddock when you are making a tight turn, locked out either way.

The way I look at it is if you're unsure about something and seek clarification on the fourm, it's probably iffy... And iffy at 150mph+ is no good.

Good on you for asking! I'd angle them levers up!
 

HavocCat

Chris
Thank you for all of the input! I'll be making some adjustments tomorrow to try and get everything squared away. I like that iffy at 0 is no go at 150. That should almost be a decal or sticker or something!
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
AJ and NegativeCamber brought up some great points. Looking at at again, I agree about the possibility of fingers being trapped in a 'slapper.
What clip-ons are those? I have Woodcrafts so I can tilt up and down by rotating the attachment point to the bars, but that's it. Those look more angled downwards - is the angle adjustable in addition to just tilting up and down by rotating them on the bars? If so, that would be your answer. They do look pointed down at a pretty high angle. Hadn't considered if that was adjustable or not, as mine don't have that capability! :)
 

borislav

Control Rider
If your clip-ons are Woodcraft they do sell some risers which may work for you IF you can't get desired adjustment with what you have! (Disregard if somebody already mention this because when I saw AJ's response I stopped reading):D
 

D-Zum

My 13 year old is faster than your President
Just for the sake of clarity, the first time I read AJ's response, I was on my phone..and it looked like a book. Albeit a well written book. But, I still felt compelled to
bust his chops a little bit..because that's what friends do.

Anyway...on a sort of serious note....what kind of clip-ons are those? Woodcrafts would have pinch bolts on both sides. I only see one set..so Vortex?

That's a pretty serious angle/drop on those bars. Are you absolutely SURE you didn't put them on backwards? None of the clilp-ons I put on my Suzuki's
ever dropped that far, from what I recall. But, then again I angled my bars out more so I was a little more stretched out because that was just my preference
being a non-aerodynamic person.
 

HavocCat

Chris
They are Vortex Clip-ons. Angle is not adjustable, they will rotate around the fork tube (obviously), and the other adjustment is in and out with the actual tube itself.

I rotated them forward a bit today, pushed the controls closer to the outside of the tubes, then pushed the tubes inward to tighten everything up.

I was able to fully clear the throttle cables (with room to spare), as well as clear the clutch side plastic housing doodly hoo.

I did end up with my 90 degree grinder out again though to shave about half of my clutch adjuster wheel off. at max right turn it was contacting the gauge cluster.

I'll have to have someone look at it when I get to the track again that actually knows what they are looking at, however I do believe I have them about as good as I'm going to get them.

On a side note, who's going to the Beave at the end of May and has a power outlet to share for my warmers? :D
 
Top