Safety Wire Help PLEASE!!!!!!
- Thread starter motorkas
- Start date
Bubba Zanetti
Member
Kas:
I wish I had known you were looking to safety wire everything on your bike. I would have walked the TZ over to you, pulled the bodywork and gone over all the wired spots. Going through tech Vinny said "Damn Bubba! This thing is safety wired"!
It came that way since it was raced and I have just kept up with it.
A warning about blue loctite. I would only use it on bolts/ fasteners, etc. that you remove 'rarely'. That crap can dick up threads and cause serious headache. That product has its place and I have and do use it on a few spots. However, a good tourgue wrench and consistantly going over your machine is the best practice. The case cover bolts on the TZ are only tourgued to 4 foot pounds and they have never come loose...yet. That is pretty much finger tight. When I am draining the gear oil out of the tranny, That is one of my routines to take my TW and go over those bolts. So far so good.
With the loctite I have had to us eit on one of the rear sets and the subframe. For whatever reason those two areas vibrate loose. When I remove the subframe or rear set I take the bolts to the wire wheel on the bench grinder and wire off the old loctite. I then take a plastic or brass .22 caliber gun cleaning brush and clean out the hole of the old dried loctite. That way when putting the bolt back it I dont add more loctite and basically cross thread the bolt into the hole. That is one of teh issues if you let it build up! Of course nothing beats safety wire except a good cross thread!
BZ
I wish I had known you were looking to safety wire everything on your bike. I would have walked the TZ over to you, pulled the bodywork and gone over all the wired spots. Going through tech Vinny said "Damn Bubba! This thing is safety wired"!
It came that way since it was raced and I have just kept up with it.
A warning about blue loctite. I would only use it on bolts/ fasteners, etc. that you remove 'rarely'. That crap can dick up threads and cause serious headache. That product has its place and I have and do use it on a few spots. However, a good tourgue wrench and consistantly going over your machine is the best practice. The case cover bolts on the TZ are only tourgued to 4 foot pounds and they have never come loose...yet. That is pretty much finger tight. When I am draining the gear oil out of the tranny, That is one of my routines to take my TW and go over those bolts. So far so good.
With the loctite I have had to us eit on one of the rear sets and the subframe. For whatever reason those two areas vibrate loose. When I remove the subframe or rear set I take the bolts to the wire wheel on the bench grinder and wire off the old loctite. I then take a plastic or brass .22 caliber gun cleaning brush and clean out the hole of the old dried loctite. That way when putting the bolt back it I dont add more loctite and basically cross thread the bolt into the hole. That is one of teh issues if you let it build up! Of course nothing beats safety wire except a good cross thread!
BZ
HondaGalToo
Control Rider
Good point about the loctite, Bubba. I use it on stuff I don't want to remove much...rearsets is really the only thing that comes to mind. Proper torque specs, and frequent checking is the best bet (along with wiring the important items).
Odd, but the brake calipers on my Honda cbr 929 came with red loctite. The gixxer, no loctite, and in fact I use antiseize on those caliper bolts.
Odd, but the brake calipers on my Honda cbr 929 came with red loctite. The gixxer, no loctite, and in fact I use antiseize on those caliper bolts.
Bubba Zanetti
Member
Judy:
I have seen the red on some items too. Guess the manufacters dont wnat it coming off LOL!
Bo:
Thats the difference between you and the shade tree guy/ gal doing maintenance. You have been doing it for years, they havent and keep loading the loctite on and then wonder why the threads are completely f'ed up after the third time they remove and replace an item.
BZ
I have seen the red on some items too. Guess the manufacters dont wnat it coming off LOL!
Bo:
Thats the difference between you and the shade tree guy/ gal doing maintenance. You have been doing it for years, they havent and keep loading the loctite on and then wonder why the threads are completely f'ed up after the third time they remove and replace an item.
BZ
HondaGalToo
Control Rider
Me too, once I learned to clean it off in between applications. :doh:
I just find that I don't really need it on too many items. In general, my theory is if the bolt didn't come with loctite on it, I generally don't put any on. And when I do use it, a little dab'll do ya! I used to coat the entire bolt. Not necessary, and led to ...difficulties.
Ya learn by doing, and fortunately, I haven't really screwed up anything major. Yet. LOL.
Oh Kas at Barber hmmmmmmm this is going to be delicious!!!!!!!!! Hey Dave is still have that breeding bench we used on D Zum should I bring it?
Mike Ruhe
SE CR 52
2006 Yamaha R6
2009 Yamaha Zuma 125
2010 BMW S1000rr
2011 Suzuki GSXR 750
Support our Servicemen and Women
www.swettwarriors.org
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson
Mike Ruhe
SE CR 52
2006 Yamaha R6
2009 Yamaha Zuma 125
2010 BMW S1000rr
2011 Suzuki GSXR 750
Support our Servicemen and Women
www.swettwarriors.org
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson
Well when you give it up so easy you are the first guy that comes to mind in these situations
Just remember what Do Do Brown says what happens in the South Stays in your...
Mike Ruhe
SE CR 52
2006 Yamaha R6
2009 Yamaha Zuma 125
2010 BMW S1000rr
2011 Suzuki GSXR 750
Support our Servicemen and Women
www.swettwarriors.org
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson
Just remember what Do Do Brown says what happens in the South Stays in your...
Mike Ruhe
SE CR 52
2006 Yamaha R6
2009 Yamaha Zuma 125
2010 BMW S1000rr
2011 Suzuki GSXR 750
Support our Servicemen and Women
www.swettwarriors.org
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson
moman
Member
Never saftied a radiator cap. If put on properly they lock in place, never seen one come loose.motorkas;292439 wrote: Thanks Moman - it's not threaded - I checked - I think the HP4's must have been the first - I was hoping they were going to make it easy. . .
On S1KRR I have the Alpha Racing oil fill plug which comes with a safety cable attached to a tab you put under one of the clutch cover screws. On the HP4 I drilled a small hole in the head of one of those screws and the cap and saftied together.
motorkas
Member
vinny337;292490 wrote: It's all good Bro! I look forward to working with you next season...
Can't wait brother!!!!!!!! Don't be afraid to point out any little thing you see us doing wrong (we actually like it - need to know what's wrong to get better) - if we're not starting to fix it by the next session - it's time for berating, insults to our manhood, and open threats. . .seems to work for everyone else. . .
Kas:
I wish I had known you were looking to safety wire everything on your bike. I would have walked the TZ over to you, pulled the bodywork and gone over all the wired spots. Going through tech Vinny said "Damn Bubba! This thing is safety wired"!
It came that way since it was raced and I have just kept up with it.
A warning about blue loctite. I would only use it on bolts/ fasteners, etc. that you remove 'rarely'. That crap can dick up threads and cause serious headache. That product has its place and I have and do use it on a few spots. However, a good tourgue wrench and consistantly going over your machine is the best practice. The case cover bolts on the TZ are only tourgued to 4 foot pounds and they have never come loose...yet. That is pretty much finger tight. When I am draining the gear oil out of the tranny, That is one of my routines to take my TW and go over those bolts. So far so good.
With the loctite I have had to us eit on one of the rear sets and the subframe. For whatever reason those two areas vibrate loose. When I remove the subframe or rear set I take the bolts to the wire wheel on the bench grinder and wire off the old loctite. I then take a plastic or brass .22 caliber gun cleaning brush and clean out the hole of the old dried loctite. That way when putting the bolt back it I dont add more loctite and basically cross thread the bolt into the hole. That is one of teh issues if you let it build up! Of course nothing beats safety wire except a good cross thread!
BZ
Thanks brother - I definitely use blue loctite on those bolts that I touch the least but in no particular order, I've had rear set pegs, shift linkage bolts, front sensor bolts and fork pinch bolts work lose so I check pretty much everything inbetween sessions. I'm really enjoying the piece of mind the safety wiring is going to bring. The rear set peg that loosened up twice had loctite on it both times - I thing part of the problem was I was doing it track side and then hitting a session so it didn't cure properly but after reading Ruhe's "what do you do in between track days, I think I'm doing "full body work off, inspect everything" next year. . .
Strange - I can't imagine red loctite on those bolts given how many times we pull our wheels off
Sweet - good to know - I've used the red loctite on my hunting rifles (the lift handle for the bolt) and have never had a problem with it - I've had Blue loosen up on my rearsets but honestly, after letting it cure properly, never had problem after wards. . .
They say the "converts" are always the worse - from now on - totally preaching the "safety wire" gospel to those who'll listen!!!!!!!!Me too, once I learned to clean it off in between applications.
I just find that I don't really need it on too many items. In general, my theory is if the bolt didn't come with loctite on it, I generally don't put any on. And when I do use it, a little dab'll do ya! I used to coat the entire bolt. Not necessary, and led to ...difficulties.
Ya learn by doing, and fortunately, I haven't really screwed up anything major. Yet. LOL.
Most of the BMW OEM bolts I've pulled had blue loctite on them from the factory - haven't been cleaning off the threads though - definitely going to start now!!!!!
The radiator cap was probably the easier of all the things drilled so far. . .I got the Sato racing pre-drilled plug - just waiting on the K&N filters to show up so I can do the oil change and wire everything - quick question - there's not a lot of room between the top of the oil filter and the headers - how are you getting a torque wrench in there to torque the filter to proper specs - I have a rachet wrench that will work but I don't think a torque wrench with a 17mm socket is going to fitI mainly use it on my rearsets,clipons,pinch bolts on triple trees,steering damper mount and bodywork.Keep in mind I DO TORQUE bolts to a specified values noted by service manual!
We're definitely having a long chat at Barber!!!!!!!!!
I was waiting for the "pics" to show up in any second. . .Oh Kas at Barber hmmmmmmm this is going to be delicious!!!!!!!!! Hey Dave is still have that breeding bench we used on D Zum should I bring it?
Mike Ruhe
SE CR 52
2006 Yamaha R6
2009 Yamaha Zuma 125
2010 BMW S1000rr
2011 Suzuki GSXR 750
Support our Servicemen and Women
www.swettwarriors.org
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson
And you guys wonder why I try so hard to get my brother out to these events - its to throw him to the wolves while I run in the opposite direction!!!!!!! Honestly looking forward to all the abuse (with the exception of the breeding table. . .
Wait a minute...how the heck did I get dragged into this?????
Never saftied a radiator cap. If put on properly they lock in place, never seen one come loose.
On S1KRR I have the Alpha Racing oil fill plug which comes with a safety cable attached to a tab you put under one of the clutch cover screws. On the HP4 I drilled a small hole in the head of one of those screws and the cap and saftied together.
I've never seen any properly torqued (And lock tited, where required) bolt come loose, but they still get safety wired.
D-Zum
My 13 year old is faster than your President
Usually with an oil filter I spin it on the threads until it's snug against the motor, then hand tighten for another 1/2 to 3/4's of a turn. I use/prefer the K&N filters because of the 17mm nut on the end pre-drilled for safety wiring. I wire through that, and also use a hose clamp wired as well. I've seen safety wire broken due to vibrations, thus why I double wire the filter.
motorkas
Member
Good to know big guy (although, from what I hear, your "1/2 to 3/4" hand turns would be equivilent to a rachet wrench in my hands turn. . .borislav;292616 wrote: Kas there is no torque for oil filter,just get it nice and snug and when you safetywire it make sure to put a tension clockwise so there is no chance for filter to come loose (counter clockwise)!
Thanks brother!!!!!! - The K&N filters just arrived a couple of minutes ago so it's looking like my DIY oil change will be taking place in a day or two!!!!!!
THANKS!!!!!!!
Usually with an oil filter I spin it on the threads until it's snug against the motor, then hand tighten for another 1/2 to 3/4's of a turn. I use/prefer the K&N filters because of the 17mm nut on the end pre-drilled for safety wiring. I wire through that, and also use a hose clamp wired as well. I've seen safety wire broken due to vibrations, thus why I double wire the filter.
). . .Also, thanks for the double safety wire suggestion!!!!!!!!! (I'm using .4 wire for most and have .3 for the smaller, tighter stuff).
motorkas
Member
I was going to safety wire my sprokets, clip ons and body work. . .but then I realized apparently that shit's supposed come of the bike on track . .Dave561;292619 wrote: Well at least your shit won't be falling off when we buzz you.
(I'm guessing long couple of days at work because it's never THAT easy with you. . .
)
HondaGalToo
Control Rider
My Gixxer manual lists a torque spec for the filter. It's about 14 ft lb, IIRC. Prior to this bike, which I bought the wench for that a torque wrench fits, I did the above. Just got it snug. Over tight and it's a bitch to remove.