Do i need new brake discs?
- Thread starter f4iguy
- Start date
HondaGalToo
Control Rider
I would think the rotors are fine, I think they take a long time to wear out. Just make sure they aren't warped. Are your brake pads old, or have a lot of miles? I'd check your pads...
finny47
Member
Advice from another F4i newbie
I'm new to Nesba and track days myself this year, but have done a lot of research from old posts and worked with TurnOne Racing on proper maintenance. I would be a lot more concerned with your brake fluid, lines, pads and clean pistons than rotors if the bike has not been down.
Brake fluid is recommended to be changed every year.
If you still have the stock brake lines, upgrade to stainless.
Pads should be rated HH. (Clean the rotors before using new brake pads).
Here's a post from the Nesba archives on cleaning the pistons:
Use a diluted solution of simple green and a toothbrush to clean the pistons, remove the pads and put a small pc of 3/8" plywood in the caliper and pump the lever to push out the pistons (keep an eye on the fluid level so as not to get too low!) and then take out the plywood and scrub away, spray clean with water in a spray bottle or brake cleaning fluid, repeat this 2 or 3 times to assure the pistons all move at the same rate and your good to go. Apply silicone caliper grease to the pistons and pad retaining pins to assure everything slides nice.I've been using the ATE blue & gold also and it's great stuff and easy to tell when the old stuff is flushed out, I only recall paying about $10/can and they were quart sized cans. I look at it as cheap insurance for the most important part of the bike next to tires!
The use of a fine emery cloth is also recommended to "shoe shine" that ring of crud off the sides of the pistons.
If you're in the Midwest, I would strongly recommend working with TurnOne Racing to get you up and running and answer your questions. Definitely have them do a suspension setup for you.
I'm new to Nesba and track days myself this year, but have done a lot of research from old posts and worked with TurnOne Racing on proper maintenance. I would be a lot more concerned with your brake fluid, lines, pads and clean pistons than rotors if the bike has not been down.
Brake fluid is recommended to be changed every year.
If you still have the stock brake lines, upgrade to stainless.
Pads should be rated HH. (Clean the rotors before using new brake pads).
Here's a post from the Nesba archives on cleaning the pistons:
Use a diluted solution of simple green and a toothbrush to clean the pistons, remove the pads and put a small pc of 3/8" plywood in the caliper and pump the lever to push out the pistons (keep an eye on the fluid level so as not to get too low!) and then take out the plywood and scrub away, spray clean with water in a spray bottle or brake cleaning fluid, repeat this 2 or 3 times to assure the pistons all move at the same rate and your good to go. Apply silicone caliper grease to the pistons and pad retaining pins to assure everything slides nice.I've been using the ATE blue & gold also and it's great stuff and easy to tell when the old stuff is flushed out, I only recall paying about $10/can and they were quart sized cans. I look at it as cheap insurance for the most important part of the bike next to tires!
The use of a fine emery cloth is also recommended to "shoe shine" that ring of crud off the sides of the pistons.
If you're in the Midwest, I would strongly recommend working with TurnOne Racing to get you up and running and answer your questions. Definitely have them do a suspension setup for you.
Quantum_Ape
New Member
I'd also like to throw in, if your using a pad that requires it, break them in before heading to the track. Since you ride street on the same bike it shouldn't be any trouble. Just don't replace them the night before and jump on the track 
Yes there are pads you don't have to mate and they are great for the track only bikes as its hard to put 200+ miles of stop and go on them
I mate my pads to be sure even if i don't need to, especially since i ride my SV on the road. I'd rather know they are at top shape then head into T1 at full speed and find out my pads only have 70% breaking power
Yes there are pads you don't have to mate and they are great for the track only bikes as its hard to put 200+ miles of stop and go on them
I mate my pads to be sure even if i don't need to, especially since i ride my SV on the road. I'd rather know they are at top shape then head into T1 at full speed and find out my pads only have 70% breaking power
Quantum_Ape
New Member
It would definitely at least make it interesting! I almost made that mistake myself actually so i thought i would throw it in.