Two Issues: Tight Clutch, Bike shutting off

[darth nater]

After my last few trackdays, my left hand is sore from pulling in the clutch. I originally thought it was due to being tense and not relaxing, but after feeling some clutches on others' bikes, my clutch lever seems more difficult to pull in. What would cause this? The way the clutch line was run, it is a little tight and becomes wrapped around the frame when turning the bars, so that is already on m list of things to fix. Would the lack of slack for the clutch line make it hard to pull the clutch in?

My second issue has happened twice to me now. First time was at Summit JC setting up for the right hander at the end of the backstraight. I pulled in the clutch and downshifted and the bike just shut off. It also happened this morning when I was riding around my house, same scenario I was slowing down to turn and pulled in the clutch to downshift and it shut off again. I know it is not electrical as all the gauges are still on and the bike fires right back up, so it does not completely shut off. I was thinking it might be fuel delivery issue as I've noticed some acceleration hesitation lately. Any ideas what I could check or look for?

Thanks for any input...

 

[chikn munky]

Makes me think that something is not rite whith you're engine. Checked or changed oil lately?

 

[darth nater]

chikn munky;24733 wrote: Makes me think that something is not rite whith you're engine. Checked or changed oil lately?

Yeah, just changed it before last track day. Weird thing is I went all day at JC and it didn't do it until the 2nd to last session. And it fires right back up after it shuts off.

 

[dogger]

Clutch: Avoid sharp bends in cable and lubrication might give you some relief.

Dying: May be a faulty sensor. Tip-over switch, Throttle position sensor, camshaft or crankshaft sensor? I had an r6 that would die at random. Throttle position sensor had dirt in it and was sticking. Cleaned it with contact cleaner and it was good to go.

 

[TN10R]

Clutch cable could be about to break and is unraveling inside the housing. I would remove it from the bike and check it out. If ok, lube it up till lube comes out the end. Confirm correct routing on reinstall.

The bike dying could be a lot of things. When was the last time the throttle bodies were synced?

 

[darth nater]

dogger;24765 wrote: Clutch: Avoid sharp bends in cable and lubrication might give you some relief.

Dying: May be a faulty sensor. Tip-over switch, Throttle position sensor, camshaft or crankshaft sensor? I had an r6 that would die at random. Throttle position sensor had dirt in it and was sticking. Cleaned it with contact cleaner and it was good to go.
I plan on checking all the cables over the winter and lubing/replacing if necessary. I will have to look into cleaning the sensors. Thanks for the tip.

TN10R;24778 wrote: Clutch cable could be about to break and is unraveling inside the housing. I would remove it from the bike and check it out. If ok, lube it up till lube comes out the end. Confirm correct routing on reinstall.

The bike dying could be a lot of things. When was the last time the throttle bodies were synced?

Not sure when the throttle bodies were synced. I bought the bike in June already setup as a track bike. I have not done anything mechanically to it except oil changes and tire changes.

 

[rk97]

others have already advised replacing the clutch cable, and as cheap as they are, i think you definitely try that first.

beyond that, consider:

- checking out your clutch springs. maybe one is fouled up, or binding somehow? clutch springs are like $15, so you may want to replace those as well, just to see if it helps.

- could the loss of power be an electrical issue? Kick-stand kill switch? or the grip mounted kill switch? I remember one guy who was having problems with his ignition not staying on very well, but only when he made lefts... something with how he moved on the bike to set up for left turns. It would be fine under power, but once he pulled the clutch - nothing.

good luck - the 'sometimes' gremlins are the worst to trouble-shoot.

 

[kd83]

Just kick it nate

 

[Handicapped Racer]

Clutch first. improper routing would definately casue a problem. remove the cable from the clutch perch and from the clutch cover, see if you can move the cable back n forth without too much effort. If it binds then you may have an issue. or it really just may need to be lubricated. binding sould'nt be a problem since you are pulling the plates apart.

Cutting off, first check your idle in neutral should be around 900-1000 rpms make sure that's set properly. when it cuts off, does it cut off immediately or does it cut off as the rpms drop.

after you check those and correct the routing of the cable.

Never replace parts when you don't know what the problem is. You may spend more money in the end!!!

have you touched the clutch or cable before this problem. sorry gotta ask!!!!!

 

[darth nater]

I bought this bike in June as it is today. The first owner wrecked the bike and turned it into a track bike, so it was setup for track when I got it. I literally took it took the track just like I bought it (except for oil change) for my first track day. Since then all I have done is oil changes, tire changes, put on a scott's damper, and loctite bolts.

I have not wrecked or dropped the bike at all. I ran it for a total of 5 TDs since July. The last TD was the first time I noticed any issues with shutting off. I have the idle set around 1200 RPMs and its hard to pay attention since I never know when it is going to happen, but the shut off seems to happen immediately, not as the rpms come down.

The bike does not have a kickstand kill switch and I do not believe it to be ignition related as I can fire the bike right back up and the gauges never shut off. I have no problem starting the bike as it fires up immediately, even with no choke (it is FI, but still has a choke).

Thanks for the questions/inputs. I am not mechanically savvy. The other point I must make is that my streetbike is an '05 GSXR750 which has a higher redline. I catch myself often on the track running fairly far into the red on the RPMs as I try to keep them high since it is a 600 and also it redlines sooner than my 750. So I think I am fairly rough on the engine, but I have only hit the rev limiter once.

Kyle, I like your idea but if I kick it and it falls over I'll have to re-tech, so you'll just have to let me borrow your R6.

 

[BLARNEY]

You could run it on the limiter for an hour and not really hurt it.



When the sidestand was removed, the switch was jumped somehow.

Find that and inspect it...... make sure it is well and permanently jumped.


Tom