220V Wiring Question

BonesDT

Member
My uncle just gave me this Lincoln AC-225 buzz box:
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...et.aspx?p=2493

I don't have 220V at my apartment complex so I have to try to rig something up at my Mom's house. Below is a picture of the box outside her garage which the air conditioners (I think that's what those big boxes do) run off.

Can someone walk me through what I have to do to wire up an outlet for the welder from this? There's a free set of terminals, but I only see 2 terminals, but don't I need 3? Do I need a separate fuse?

I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible, because I'm not even sure the welder works. This box is about 30' from the inside of the garage, but if wire that long is going to cost too much, then I don't mind making an outlet right next to the box and just setting up shop right there.
 

ninjamansc

THE Comstock
Control Rider
Don't mess with that box. It's a service disconnect. And it's wired wrong, because there's no ground on either side. The top wires are power coming in, bottom wires are to the load. I hope it's got thermal overloads (which judging by the size it doesn't), because there's no fuses.

Your best and safest bet is to get an electrician in there and look at what you've got.

Honestly, you're better off getting a quality welder (MIG or TIG/stick) that can plug into standard 110V. The 225 AC buzz boxes are just low-cost stick welders. Don't know what your intended usage is.

Also, you could get an inexpensive generator that puts out 220V. Might cost the same as setting up a proper outlet.
Just my 2 cents.
 

BonesDT

Member
Hmmm. I spoke to my Mom's electrician (probably wired that box), and he quoted me over $100 to install an outlet, but I didn't even want to spend that much.

I'm just getting into welding, just completed an intro stick course at the local school. We were using big $ 220V machines. I want to do all kinds of general auto welding, I have a bunch of diff projects lined up. I was thinking about buying a 120V MIG (been eyeing the Hobart Handler 140!) to weld sheet metal in the comfort of my own garage (no moms nagging me), but I was going to use this freebie stick welder to do the thicker jobs, like 3/16"-1/4" brackets and square tubing to make a welding table and a ramp door for my trailer.
 

AC1108

New Member
It's not the best thing in the world but a long time ago at a house I rented I made an extension cord from 10/3 SO cord I picked up at Home Depot. On one end I used a standard female 220v end and on the other I put a 220v male dryer plug so I could used the dryer outlet that was in my utility room next to the garage. It worked great as all of my welding was short and on a low amp setting.
 

beac83

Member
Hmm,

Look at the rating plate on your welder. What is the amperage of the primary side? (Where it says 220v or 240v, nearby it will say xx Amps or YYY Watts) That's the first step. This info is needed to properly size the wire and keep from starting unintended fires in the electrical supply.

Actually $100 for installing an outlet is dirt cheap. Materials alone will cost you about half that, and if you aren't an experienced electrician, you can make mistakes that will cause damage - like burning down the house/garage, etc.

Unintended fires from the stick side of the welder - well, as they taught me in welding class - when you set yourself on fire, put yourself out!
 

AC1108

New Member
Should have added that with the way I did mine you have to take voltage drop into consideration and keep your cord as short as possible.
 
I made an extension cord out of some plugs from Lowes that matched what I needed and some cable that hooks up to my cloths dryer outlet inside the house. I have it long enough to reach the garage or outside. It works perfect and might have cost $30 for materials. I don't need to weld very often, so adding an outlet didn't make sense.
 

jpj

New Member
You have several options with that service disconect. First verify that it is the service for the AC condensing unit. Go to the inside breaker panel and check the amperage rating on the breaker for the outside unit. Your welder will require a 50 amp breaker. The next thing to check would be the wire size into the disconnect. Minumin size should be a #8 AWG, #6 would be even better. Your welder came with a 5-6 ft cord for electrical connection. This cable could be connected to the bottom of the outside service disconnect for use. You will need a proper ground connection. The picture looks as if the ground connection has been run through the conduits with no connection point at the disconnect. If you can verify this info, I can possibly give you some guidance for the connection. 1) Breaker panel 50 amp service. 2) #8 or #6 wire. 3) Ground connection point somewhere. ??? 4) Or, Give the local electrical contractor the $100.
 

tattsailor

New Member
I agree with JPJ. You need a dedicated breaker for a welder of any type. They are a serious draw on the electrical system. If you are not an electrician don't try and "RIGG" something to work. You will end up dead on the floor bro. You should make sure it is wired correctly.

Remember you you be operating a welder that grounds itself to the piece of metal, steel, ect you are working on, thus completing the electrical circuit. Do you want that "Rigged"? Faulty ground ect

Come up with the 100 bones
 

BonesDT

Member
Thanks for everyone's input. I misspoke, the electrician wanted $200 ... that's to install an outlet in my mom's house 30 mins away from me. It's just not worth for it me ... especially considering I don't even know if this buzzbox works.

I think I'm going to save the money for a 120-volt Hobart Handler 140 MIG that I can use in the comfort of my own place. I'm also going to look for a house to buy. I'm sick of this non-240V supply holding me back.
 
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