Aluminum Welding/Brazing Rod--anyone use?

Laszlo

Laszlo

Member
Howdy all,
not track question per se, but with the knowledge and experience here I was curious if anyone used aluminum welding rods? Non electrode, just the ones that can be used with propane or MAPP gas --like described here: https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/46803-Aluminum-Brazing-Options.

I'm curious about it for use on non-track and non-heavy duty welds. Basically, as a result of high-siding in December, I now have an extra gas tank, extra handlebar, and extra kick stand, and I want to see about welding this into some sort of outdoor sculpture. At home I only have a little field FC90 Flux Core welder which would eat through the aluminum, and don't want to transport all this into Philly where I have access to a MIG/TIG but would have to haul it back and forth...so, for merely holding these parts together I've been curious about such welding . . . which really is more like soldering in a way.

Thanks all,
Laz
 
I found that learning to tig weld was easier than trying to get the aluminum rods you're talking about to melt/weld correctly. I'd say, don't waste your time/money.
 
Brandon35 said:
I found that learning to tig weld was easier than trying to get the aluminum rods you're talking about to melt/weld correctly. I'd say, don't waste your time/money.
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Same! Those things are more like soldering than it is like brazing.

I picked up a Primeweld TIG225 and it is awesome for my little home game shop.
 
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tad158 said:
Same! Those things are more like soldering than it is like brazing.

I picked up a Primeweld TIG225 and it is awesome for my little home game shop.
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That is the exact welder I picked up. I lived out in Cali for a brief period and their home bade is in/near Vegas.
 
Brandon35 said:
That is the exact welder I picked up. I lived out in Cali for a brief period and their home bade is in/near Vegas.
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Thanks for the recommendation. Looked it up and seems like really good machine, especially for my art and light duty needs... May end up getting it...
 
I find them useful in certain situations. They do well sealing up a welded fitting when you are chasing a pinhole. Great for fuel tank or other aluminum bodywork repair. Awesome for things like the bed of an F150. Have also used them to cast tips onto a kickstand. I don't know what that rod is made of, but it is surprisingly hard and strong. Certainly stronger than other weldable aluminums without heat treat. Still wouldn't trust it for structural though.
 
mikeinatlanta said:
I find them useful in certain situations. They do well sealing up a welded fitting when you are chasing a pinhole. Great for fuel tank or other aluminum bodywork repair. Awesome for things like the bed of an F150. Have also used them to cast tips onto a kickstand. I don't know what that rod is made of, but it is surprisingly hard and strong. Certainly stronger than other weldable aluminums without heat treat. Still wouldn't trust it for structural though.
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Thanks!
 
One tip with this stuff is a small tip. As in a small tip oxy setup. Bigger the fire the harder it is to work with. You want the fire small and hot.
 
mikeinatlanta said:
One tip with this stuff is a small tip. As in a small tip oxy setup. Bigger the fire the harder it is to work with. You want the fire small and hot.
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totally! Clean surface, focused heat, check heat is ready, and apply (and w/ alu set up so whatever is holding it is not a massive heatsink...).
 
Laszlo said:
will do! I have the tank, handlebar, side stand, and rear single hub...I'm visualizing and playing with how to display it in some way that indicates...let's say something that can convey unexpected errant directional movement....I'm motivated by images of mustangs bucking...https://cdn-ikpnefn.nitrocdn.com/Rf...ontent/uploads/2024/02/Untitled-design-94.png
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Or.. attach them however you can and take a still from the GoPro footage of the crash and frame it on top. Presto; unexpected, errant directional movement depiction achieved.
 
@Laszlo just saw this. I used harbor freight alumarods and Mapp Gas to fix my fairing stay because there was a moderate crack in it. It ended up snapping in half at around 100mph on the mini straightaway going into T6 at homestead. Had I not put a couple zip ties on the fairing to hold it to the frame, it would have probably knocked me off the bike. New parts and/or Zip ties are stronger than the rods.
 
Oooofff! Thanks for that feedback. I've used it for non load bearing decorative stuff around the property ... Based on after using it being unsure how deeply it penetrated into the base metal to fuse. I have access to the sculpture shop at PAFA in Philly and took up TIG welding to get better.... Getting there.

Thanks for that feedback! Have fun and ride safe.
 
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