Brake Question

stephenjpauls

New Member
All,

I have a question about brakes. The front brakes on my GSXR-600 drag slightly on the pads. They have always done this... and it has not gotten worse, but I'm just wondering if a little drag is usual. I recently replaced the rotors, rebuilt the calipers, flushed the breaks and put on new RJL pads. I also run braided steel lines, which were on the bike when I got it. If this is a problem, do you think it is with the master cylinder or the calipers?

Thanks the the help!
 

jasonhise

Member
Same problem w/ a 2003 ZX-6RR, just scuffed the rotors when I replaced w/ Vesrah RJL's and it seems less obvious, but still doesn't spin completely unhindered. I also sprayed the calipers w/ brake cleaner in between changing pads and let the calipers air dry. Brakes work great on the track though... Any thoughts??? I hope this wasn't thread jacking...
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
Yeah, with new pads, mine sometimes barely spin for one full revolution. Once the pads are a bit worn, I'll maybe get 2 or so spins. When I put the front wheel on, before tightening any axle or pinch bolts, I first spin it and hit the brakes a few times. Then I'll tighten the axle and right side pinch bolts. Remove it from the stand and roll it forward, hit the brakes, causing the suspension to compress a few times, then tighten the left side pinch bolts. That procedure will get the wheel centered between the calipers.
 

Sklossmonster

New Member
Don't forget to make sure and really clean your brake pistons. The brake dust buildup around where the piston meets the dust seal can cause unnecessary drag on your front wheel.

In order for the pads to retract slightly when you release the lever, as designed, those pistons need to be clean.

I use a thin strip of fine emery cloth during a brake pad change to reach behind the pistons and ensure smooth movement of the piston body past the dust seal, but then again I'm a complete psycho :D
 

ronhix

New Member
Good word Marshall, I agree. Two things to focus on here.

1. Rotors must be perfectly straight.
2. Caliper piston seals must be clean.

I struggled with trying to reach "front wheel free spinning perfection" last season on my Jiggy Thou. Here's what I found. With stock rotors and calipers, three full spins of the front tire is a good mark that everything is pretty much as good as you can get. Two spins is about average and less than 1 full rotation is an indication that something needs attention.

I have seen some real "free spinning magic" happen with upgraded rotors and/or calipers, but not with stock.

BTW, I found the Vesrah SRJL pads to be much better performers than the Vesrah RJL.
 

danch

New Member
Sklossmonster;40606 wrote:
In order for the pads to retract slightly when you release the lever, as designed, those pistons need to be clean.

I use a thin strip of fine emery cloth during a brake pad change to reach behind the pistons and ensure smooth movement of the piston body past the dust seal, but then again I'm a complete psycho :D
Flooding the area with brake cleaner will get them as well.

Don't go too long without cleaning those suckers - T1 at Road America is a Real Bad Place to learn that your pistons didn't retract and your rotors aren't flat anymore...
 

stephenjpauls

New Member
Thanks for the replies,

When I did my calipers, 2 track days on them since, I removed the calipers, took them completely apart. I cleaned them up with brake fluid, a soft tooth brush and a cloth till they looked brand new. I then replaced all of the seals and put new fluid in and bleed the brakes.

I replaced the Rotors with used ones… however I tested them by putting them on the bike and with a dial gauge spun the wheel to find that they were almost perfect... I don't recall how much they were off of perfect, but it was less that 1/10 what Suzuki said was too much.

When I put the bike away this winter I got about 1.5 – 2 rotations. The main reason I was asking is my Triumph has no drag at all, the pads do NOT touch the rotor.
 
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