Chain Install

Demps

New Member
Hey Guys-

I need to put a new chain and sprockets on my R6. I am debating doing it myself, but do not have the proper chain riveting tool.

Anybody know of any GOOD shortcuts for not having the ~$80 tool? Ever use a clip type master link? Any thoughts at all?

I would like to go with the riveted chain, so does anybody in the Southern Wisconsin or Northern Illinois area have a chain tool they would let me borrow for a fee/beer/whiskey/women/whatever you are into?

Let me know. I would be happy to come and get it.

Thanks for any advice or possible tool rental!

Later everyone.
 

betarace

Member
Pick up a chain tool on eBay for 40. Motion pro. Not the most elegant tool in the box, but gets the job done and you will be glad you have it
 

eE jeremy

New Member
Don't like using clip master links on bikes going 150mph, the tools aren't that much, and a ton of people have them, surely you can find one to borrow. I'd let you use mine but you're kind of far away
 

some guy #2

Member
I bought the DID knock off on Ebay for $60 bucks and have used it numerous times (even at the track). It is a solid investment.
 

j_fuggin_t

Member
if it were up to me it would be illegal to use a clip master, i've watched two ppl get hurt because of them. Buy the motion pro kit if you just do them every once in a while or do it right and get the rk chain tool and have a good tool for life. rivet rivet rivet ONLY
 

gkotlin

New Member
betarace;224200 wrote: Pick up a chain tool on eBay for 40. Motion pro. Not the most elegant tool in the box, but gets the job done and you will be glad you have it
The motion pro chain tool I have is for timing chains. It's not as heavy duty.

Buy the big heavy duty ones and use it forever. Buy a cheap or small one and you'll be buying replacement pins all the time.

Buy once, buy right.
 

dlockhart5x

New Member
j_fuggin_t;224256 wrote: if it were up to me it would be illegal to use a clip master, i've watched two ppl get hurt because of them. Buy the motion pro kit if you just do them every once in a while or do it right and get the rk chain tool and have a good tool for life. rivet rivet rivet ONLY
I took some research but I learned how to properly use clips links from a thread on the USGPRU bb. (GP bikes are often changing gearing and sometimes that requires multiple chains to find that perfect halfatooth ratio :D.) Alignment of the sprockets is the critical issue. Side loading of the link puts stresses on the clip that it is not intended to carry and leads to it popping off. The clip does not carry the tension load it just holds the side plate in place. That said for a big diesel where gearing changes are minimal, a rivet link is likely the best solution.
 

denbsteph

Member
It appears this thread is heading in the direction of what BRAND is the best for breaking chains or riveting them. I purchased the Stockton Tool company chain tool kit. From what I have read, seen and viewed it's how you use the thing. If you don't match the pin up correctly on the link, you snap the pins. The instructions on the Stockton kit says to "grind down the rivet head". I don't know about yall, but if it says grind it , I will. The instructions are there for a reason and that's what works best for their tool. I used their chain breaker the other day and had no issues. I bought the kit today because I need the rivet attachment. For 39 bucks, I'll give her a whirl. It's just a matter of preference......like riding a Honda or a Yamaha......I guess. Just use common sense when using whatever chain breaker/rivet tool you get.
 

gkotlin

New Member
dlockhart5x;224312 wrote: I took some research but I learned how to properly use clips links from a thread on the USGPRU bb. (GP bikes are often changing gearing and sometimes that requires multiple chains to find that perfect halfatooth ratio :D.) Alignment of the sprockets is the critical issue. Side loading of the link puts stresses on the clip that it is not intended to carry and leads to it popping off. The clip does not carry the tension load it just holds the side plate in place. That said for a big diesel where gearing changes are minimal, a rivet link is likely the best solution.
No research done here. Good old trial and failure.

The clips work ok if you have the sprockets aligned very well. If they're not aligned well, you'll throw the clip and the plate. Don't ask me how I know. I've tried putting JB weld over the clip as well. It just hardens and the vibration cracks it off in a session or two. Rivit links are the best. But if you must use a clip, align the sprockets well, put the open side of the clip on the trailing end of the link and safety wire it.
 

j_fuggin_t

Member
dlockhart5x;224312 wrote: I took some research but I learned how to properly use clips links from a thread on the USGPRU bb. (GP bikes are often changing gearing and sometimes that requires multiple chains to find that perfect halfatooth ratio :D.) Alignment of the sprockets is the critical issue. Side loading of the link puts stresses on the clip that it is not intended to carry and leads to it popping off. The clip does not carry the tension load it just holds the side plate in place. That said for a big diesel where gearing changes are minimal, a rivet link is likely the best solution.you're right, they have their place for situations, but i still dont trust them and never will.

denbsteph;224316 wrote:
It appears this thread is heading in the direction of what BRAND is the best for breaking chains or riveting them. I purchased the Stockton Tool company chain tool kit. From what I have read, seen and viewed it's how you use the thing. If you don't match the pin up correctly on the link, you snap the pins. The instructions on the Stockton kit says to "grind down the rivet head". I don't know about yall, but if it says grind it , I will. The instructions are there for a reason and that's what works best for their tool. I used their chain breaker the other day and had no issues. I bought the kit today because I need the rivet attachment. For 39 bucks, I'll give her a whirl. It's just a matter of preference......like riding a Honda or a Yamaha......I guess. Just use common sense when using whatever chain breaker/rivet tool you get.
I use a dremel to break a chain, even if the rivet tool is right next to me. Following the directions to the T the motion pro will break, never had an issue with the rk
 

mpz

Member
denbsteph;224233 wrote: Cycle Gear has them on sale tomorrow, rivet and chain breaker kit reg 90 bucks tomorrow...........39.95!!!
Thanks for sharing. I decided to pick one up as well.
 

BillFred

Member
Just don't over tighten and crack the head the head of the rivet. Learned this the hard way. Chain went flying off on the front straight at Putnam in October. 2nd lap of 1st session. No crash, but ruined my weekend.
 

denbsteph

Member
BillFred is correct!! SportbikeTrackgear has the the tutorial videos that walk you step by step and tells you what you are looking for. THANKS for the info!!!
 

Morrand

Member
j_fuggin_t;224333 wrote: Following the directions to the T the motion pro will break, never had an issue with the rk
I agree with this. I've broken two or three chains with my chain tool*, and haven't lost a pin yet.

And, yeah, it is possible to over-flare the master link. Just a dab of flaring will do it.

* That would be a redundant "chain" in there, but it is the off season, after all.
 

jimmeigs

New Member
Using the Dremel is the best thing said here to save pins. I own the Motion Pro and was breaking pins regularly until I started completely removing the flared rivet heads. Only takes a couple of minutes.
 

nk140

Member
jimmeigs;224855 wrote: Using the Dremel is the best thing said here to save pins. I own the Motion Pro and was breaking pins regularly until I started completely removing the flared rivet heads. Only takes a couple of minutes.
:agree: I use a dremel for the pins since I broke my pin on my second chain install. I will be using the dremel for pins for now on.
 

denbsteph

Member
Stupid question coming. How do you know if you have over tightened the rivet? Meaning from a "eyeballing" position? I have got the rivet on there pretty good I feel, I can see with what appears to be some "copper" showing on the inside of the are I compressed. I have a feeling she may be on to tight, is this a correct assumption?
 
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