Fairing Refresh

Stripe750

Stripe750

New Member
Hey Nesba,

Instead of purchasing new race fairings, I've decided to repair the few cracks in my current set and redo the paint job. I'm looking for your advice on using fiberglass repair kit or Pro-flex. Also since my fairings are currently painted, would I have to sand down (i'm thinking between 700-1000 grit) the first few coats and then repaint?

Any advise would be appreciated. THANKS
 
Thunderace

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
Here is a product that I have used many times. It includes the resin, hardener, fiberglass mat & spreader. However, I prefer to use brushes to apply the resin. This product has everything you need to repair the fiberglass on the inside

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=1236001&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50218&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50221

This is the product that I have used many times to fix the outside. You can buy it in a 1/2 pint which will cover a lot of surface area. Just apply as smooth as possible and sand when done. It does require you to sand the outside area prior to application.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=111704&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50218&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50223

Depending on how much work you need to do, these two products will do a lot of surface area for less than $50. After this, you are ready for paint.
 
Stripe750

Stripe750

New Member
Thunderace,

Thanks so much. I actually order both products. The prices were better than the local O'Riley's and AutoZone.

Thanks. I found a step by step thread on the kawi forum that should walk me through the process. After this....PAINT. I'm going rattle can though.

Thunderace;299793 wrote: Here is a product that I have used many times. It includes the resin, hardener, fiberglass mat & spreader. However, I prefer to use brushes to apply the resin. This product has everything you need to repair the fiberglass on the inside

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=1236001&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50218&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50221

This is the product that I have used many times to fix the outside. You can buy it in a 1/2 pint which will cover a lot of surface area. Just apply as smooth as possible and sand when done. It does require you to sand the outside area prior to application.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=111704&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50218&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50223

Depending on how much work you need to do, these two products will do a lot of surface area for less than $50. After this, you are ready for paint.
Click to expand...
 
Thunderace

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
Stripe750;299871 wrote: Thunderace,

Thanks so much. I actually order both products. The prices were better than the local O'Riley's and AutoZone.

Thanks. I found a step by step thread on the kawi forum that should walk me through the process. After this....PAINT. I'm going rattle can though.
Click to expand...
I've used rattle can on almost all the paint I've done over the years. Only once did I use an HVLP sprayer using the Advanced Auto Parts lacquer paint. That was the job that I liked the least. My last creation was done with really good rattle can and I will redo that process when the time comes. Good luck with the repair and painting.
 
Stripe750

Stripe750

New Member
Thanks again Thunderace. The good news is that its not as damaged as I thought. The cracks didn't break the fiberglass. It just cracked down to the original paint. So I'm probably just need to sand down those areas and use the body filler to patch everything up.

I do have a question, since the fairings are already painted. Do I have to sand it all down to the base primer? That's some major sanding!!
 
Stripe750

Stripe750

New Member
Thanks again Thunderace. The good news is that its not as damaged as I thought. The cracks didn't break the fiberglass. It just cracked down to the original paint. So I'm probably just need to sand down those areas and use the body filler to patch everything up.

I do have a question, since the fairings are already painted. Do I have to sand it all down to the base primer? That's some major sanding!!

Thunderace;299953 wrote: I've used rattle can on almost all the paint I've done over the years. Only once did I use an HVLP sprayer using the Advanced Auto Parts lacquer paint. That was the job that I liked the least. My last creation was done with really good rattle can and I will redo that process when the time comes. Good luck with the repair and painting.
Click to expand...
 
Thunderace

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
I've had up to three coats of paint on a bike before. I would say that it would be best to sand down the surface with 400 grit prior to primer, just to be safe. They say you can use urethane over lacquer, but not the other way around. I wasn't taking any chances.

My last paint job, I spent a large amount of time sanding to get all the old paint off. I was changing from lacquer based paints to a urethane based paint and didn't want any contamination issues. It was well worth the time, since the end product came out really nice. I have attached a picture of what my body work looked like prior to primer.
 
Stripe750

Stripe750

New Member
Wow, looks like I have aways to go. The bike it black at the moment and I've sand down the areas where bondo is going but I have a lot to go if I have to take all the current black color off. I guess I'll be buying an electric sander. Thanks for talking me through this. I feel like I can approach this now and do a pretty good job. To make this easier, I may just go with a matte black color scheme.

thanks for all the help

Thunderace;300284 wrote: I've had up to three coats of paint on a bike before. I would say that it would be best to sand down the surface with 400 grit prior to primer, just to be safe. They say you can use urethane over lacquer, but not the other way around. I wasn't taking any chances.

My last paint job, I spent a large amount of time sanding to get all the old paint off. I was changing from lacquer based paints to a urethane based paint and didn't want any contamination issues. It was well worth the time, since the end product came out really nice. I have attached a picture of what my body work looked like prior to primer.
Click to expand...
 
Thunderace

Thunderace

BIG JIM
Control Rider
A five or six inch random orbit sander is the way to go for the bigger areas. I also have a Dremel Multi-Max that I use for the harder to reach areas.

Dremel-Multi-Max-Multi-Tool.jpg


Keep the grit on the paper as high as possible. You will be tempted to go lower, but all it will do is add fine scratches that you really won't see until you put on a layer of paint. Just be patient and change the paper as it gums up with paint.
 
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