One of the things I suggest that folks do is go out on the track, do a few laps (2 to 3 are fine) and then pick a corner after a long-ish straight. As you approach that corner on lap x (after 2 or 3 laps in) and using a mark slightly preceding what you have used for the preceding laps, set the front [suspension] then increase the pressure to a point at which you are comfortable, continue this braking until you have reached YOUR turn-in speed. In doing so, you will see that you are likely far, far from the actual turn-in point. Smoothly come back on the gas and take yourself through the corner.
What you are trying to see here are three VERY important things: 1. You must have reference points to be CONSISTENT and REMAIN SMOOTH as you go faster. 2. Sportbike brakes work very well and they will not dump you over the bars (when used properly) IF you are smooth to apply [set], and progressively get to your maximum braking (regressive braking is the second part of the equation and extremely important to "trail braking"). 3. You can brake lighter and longer BUT the caution is that this technique takes time to develop (and sometimes an explanation). But the "brake later" thing that everyone throws out can at least be visualized here. That said, the way to smooth and fast is exactly what has been said above brake LIGHTER for LONGER.
So the way to really learn from this exercise is to then USE THE SAME braking marker (REFERENCE POINT) and work on braking LIGHTER to get to YOUR turn in point at the SPEED you are comfortable. This is step one. Step two is to then push that braking marker FORWARD 20 ft (NO MORE) and use the same braking techniques to get the bike to the proper speed. This develops the skill while also allowing you to build your entry speed progressively AS YOU LEARN PROPER BRAKING TECHNIQUES. So as you set the brakes a little later, you ay have to use more brake pressure, though it still won't be the harsh braking habits of some. The pros use this technique, and while they are on the edge of their brakes, they are also very deliberate in how they set and apply the brakes. They are braking LIGHTER, however the amount of braking they need is very great, and it is relative.
USE ONE TURN
AND ALWAYS ASSURE YOU start the drill 2 - 4 laps in. (reason is the first few laps you may come out of the last turn slower than with open track, etc., so just be cognizant of braking markers and your speed as you approach the turn you are using. This also has to do with brake marker/cone setup, using "fixed reference points" is always best but if you are using brake boards or cones just be sure they are set up the same way they were the last time you used them.
If it doesn't make sense, hit me up, but I've suggested that many try it and I've gotten good feedback and I know some of other CRs (much faster and smoother than I) have their own similar "drill" and can help explain as well.