Looking for your enclosed trailer air conditioning ideas!

Discussion in 'N2 Paddock Section' started by Rydell, Mar 1, 2011.

  1. ninjamansc

    ninjamansc THE Comstock Control Rider

    How is the water-tightness of that hatch? I've considered similar, but was too worried about road spray working it's way in and soaking the wood.
     
  2. dbakerpa

    dbakerpa Member

    Its a cam lock marine hatch and is VERY water tight. I sealed the flange with silicone. I am going to make some vinyl side skirts for the door so rain doesnt blow in if its open.
     
  3. 1literduceater

    1literduceater New Member

    I thoght about it but end up just brining my lap top and watching a movie on that. Works well for me.
     
  4. 1literduceater

    1literduceater New Member

    That was a good idea you came up with!!
     
  5. JU190

    JU190 New Member

    I'm currently wiring my trailer up also.
    What do most tracks offer as far as electric?
    I plan to power a RV a/c unit, lights, and 2 sets of warmers
    I'm trying to decide between 30amp or 50amp. (seems like 50amp 220v would cost more for a cord and may be alittle over the top)
     
  6. dbakerpa

    dbakerpa Member

    If you stay in the bike trailer most dont charge for the 30 amp or the camping for that matter. I havent been charged at Jennings, CMP, VIR. If you need big power they will charge you for the camping and the power.
     
  7. Mikey75702

    Mikey75702 Member

    I'm pretty sure there are locks on the power hookups at njmp and summit. I believe you have to pay at both, but im not 100% sure as i have never done it.
     
  8. JohnS

    JohnS Member

    NJMSP $10 to tent camp - tent or enclosed trailer
    NJMSP $35 for power
    RV $60 includes power

    2 years ago
    Summit cannot remember if I paid to stay there
    Summit $10 for power.
     
  9. Rydell

    Rydell New Member

    IIRC - last cornerspeed event VIR charged for power.
     
  10. madmanr1

    madmanr1 New Member

    I run a portable unit in mine and it works fairly well but during extremely hot days the temp in the trailer can overwhelm the output. Some insulation and perhaps some RV roof paint could help. On the window units...I saw a set up one track day...guys built a folding removable plywood wall that they set up in the ramp opening in the back of the trailer that had a cutout for the window a/c and just used the side door for entry/exit. No cutting up the trailer walls, no worry about venting or dripping. Pretty ingenious I thought.
     
  11. borislav

    borislav Control Rider

    ...if YOU waited few more months we would all celebrated this thread 5th birthday!;)
     
    Otto Man likes this.
  12. motorkas

    motorkas Member

    I love me some "Bo". . .:rofl:
     
    Otto Man likes this.
  13. madmanr1

    madmanr1 New Member

    Just doing my part :)
     
    vinny337 likes this.
  14. juanfox

    juanfox New Member

    I have a Dometic B57915 Brisk II Air Conditioner which is 13,500 BTU in my RV travel trailer. It has a high performance design for increased airflow, easy installation, and maintenance. It is portable and still working perfectly. Still, it is portable and still working perfectly.
     
    vinny337 likes this.
  15. Victory

    Victory New Member

    Keep in mind the RV units are designed for the road vibration and shocks while the others aren't. If you are on a budget look to salvage yards there are quite a few almost new campers that are sitting in the yard because of roof leaks or small accidents that didn't affect the AC or REF units. Paid $300 for a Keystone unit last year and $450 for the Refrigerator. I suspect the AC had never been run.
     

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