bmart
Control Rider
You're right, but there are formal specs for things. I've made fun of the 'every weekend oil change guys' for years as the science doesn't support it. I send my engine (cars and bikes) oil off periodically for testing and even at my intervals, I change it too early. It shows as well in spec for the duty it has to perform.
The shearing and pressure forces of engine/transmission/clutch oil can't really be compared to fork oil, probably why Ohlins recommends 30k intervals and Honda recommends 7.5k for engine oil. I'm not suggesting those intervals for track/race use, but for under normal circumstances. Still, I know many who change their suspension fluid every season and engine oil every 1k miles or so...on their non-track use bikes. There's nothing wrong with it, but they're mostly just throwing their $ away and adding to recycling or worse.
Maintenance cycles/consumables are always an interesting conversation and have, I'm sure, been the source of many family brawls. lol (The newest Mobil 1 Extended Performance runs easily 20k miles in a car within spec. Crazy good tech.)
For me, a slow track guy, every 7.5k or so for suspension seems fine. I'm at that now on the "A" bike. I wish that Thermosman was closer so that I could visit and see what comes out when he drains both ends!
To add to the topic of engine oil that you touched on, I go 1500 miles on the track bikes (much of it coaching rolling around looking backward, not at speed) and the 'used up oil' tests have always come back as well in spec (aside from the one posted below). I tow a lot with the cars. Their interval is 7500 miles, so I change it then. Again, the oil test guys say I'm changing it way too early. Unlike my old cars, oil technology has come a LONG way. So like you, but at a later cycle, I still don't want to run it until it doesn't work well and create any damage.
Have any of you also tested engine, or perhaps more interestingly, suspension fluid? I'd be very interested in seeing the results at any mileage, car or bike. I've attached a few of mine. A 2004 Subaru that has nearly 100% towing duty; Mobil 1 since I bought it. The R6 was one of my track bikes. The aluminum turned out to be the clutch boss. Definitely worth the cost of the test to avoid a failure while in use (and easy to pay for with all of that extra oil money!).
The shearing and pressure forces of engine/transmission/clutch oil can't really be compared to fork oil, probably why Ohlins recommends 30k intervals and Honda recommends 7.5k for engine oil. I'm not suggesting those intervals for track/race use, but for under normal circumstances. Still, I know many who change their suspension fluid every season and engine oil every 1k miles or so...on their non-track use bikes. There's nothing wrong with it, but they're mostly just throwing their $ away and adding to recycling or worse.
Maintenance cycles/consumables are always an interesting conversation and have, I'm sure, been the source of many family brawls. lol (The newest Mobil 1 Extended Performance runs easily 20k miles in a car within spec. Crazy good tech.)
For me, a slow track guy, every 7.5k or so for suspension seems fine. I'm at that now on the "A" bike. I wish that Thermosman was closer so that I could visit and see what comes out when he drains both ends!
To add to the topic of engine oil that you touched on, I go 1500 miles on the track bikes (much of it coaching rolling around looking backward, not at speed) and the 'used up oil' tests have always come back as well in spec (aside from the one posted below). I tow a lot with the cars. Their interval is 7500 miles, so I change it then. Again, the oil test guys say I'm changing it way too early. Unlike my old cars, oil technology has come a LONG way. So like you, but at a later cycle, I still don't want to run it until it doesn't work well and create any damage.
Have any of you also tested engine, or perhaps more interestingly, suspension fluid? I'd be very interested in seeing the results at any mileage, car or bike. I've attached a few of mine. A 2004 Subaru that has nearly 100% towing duty; Mobil 1 since I bought it. The R6 was one of my track bikes. The aluminum turned out to be the clutch boss. Definitely worth the cost of the test to avoid a failure while in use (and easy to pay for with all of that extra oil money!).