Oil

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Dave_636

New Member
Meat which Purolator oil filter are you using for the ZX6R? I knew about Rotella being the real deal when it came to bikes but I have been using the K&N filter. If I can get a better filter for less money I am there.
 
AC1108

AC1108

New Member
I use Hi-Flo filters from the shop I work at. Retail is about $7. I change my oil every other trackday or after every race weekend to be on the safe side. Oil and filter are much cheaper than a motor.
 
Meat

Meat

Member
Dave_636;66978 wrote: Meat which Purolator oil filter are you using for the ZX6R? I knew about Rotella being the real deal when it came to bikes but I have been using the K&N filter. If I can get a better filter for less money I am there.
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I use the Purolator Pure One PL14612, but it also looks like I can also get the longer PL14610 in there. I had gotten a great deal on a bunch of the PL14612's. When I run out of them I will switch to the longer PL14610.

I have the Leo Vince full exhaust; I have no idea if the longer PL14610 will fit with the stock header.
 
D

Dave_636

New Member
Thanks for the reply. I'm running a full Leo Vince exhaust as well so looks like I will give the longer filters a try.
 
Meat

Meat

Member
Dave_636;67661 wrote: Thanks for the reply. I'm running a full Leo Vince exhaust as well so looks like I will give the longer filters a try.
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Excellent. Should work perfectly.
 
gregMo

gregMo

New Member
if you really wanna learn about oil, read this:
http://www.ducatimonster.org/forums/tech/122020-motor-oil.html
(read posts by George Morrison- oil guru!!!) there is a section about rotella and oils 4 turbo diesel engines, looks like they are the best alternative for motorcycle engine needs. just remember, never use thicker oil then recommended by manufacturer! ...that goes to you guys who are using xxW-50 instead of xxW-40.
cheers, gmo
 
Tony A

Tony A

Member
sent out a sample yesterday of mobil one racing 10-40, after 5 days on it I will post up results when i get them back
 
Tony A

Tony A

Member
ok my sample is back, and like meat is high in aluminum and also iron and tin.
I like the clutch theory:) but :dunno:
 
Meat

Meat

Member
Tony A;71247 wrote: ok my sample is back, and like meat is high in aluminum and also iron and tin.
I like the clutch theory:) but :dunno:
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My Aluminum was about doubles yours and your iron was about double mine. How many track days was on this oil?

I am only at 4 track days until Barber (Aug 8-9), but will send in sample and post up results after that.

Tony, thanks for posting up your sample. It will be nice once we get a few samples in a row to track what the changes are. I do this on my Dodge truck (Cummins Diesel) and they will reprint the numbers from your previous samples and then the results from your newest sample. It is really pretty nice to see what changes there are.

I found out that this last oil change I was idling the truck motor too long, when cooling it down after long trips.
 
Meat

Meat

Member
Just got oil back after 6 track days on it and my TBN number was actually better and still had a ton of additive left. They recomended doing another 3 to 4 days on it next time as the oil still was well within spec. So, 9 or 10 track days will be my next change interval before I send it back in.
 
meanstrk

meanstrk

Control Rider
I am another firm believer in Shell Rotella oils, and use them in EVERYTHING I own, from my Chevy truck to my Subaru WRX and all 10 motorcycles.

Oddly enough, the Harley Davidson manual even states that if you don't have the "approved" Harley oil, then use Shell Rotella as the alternative. I just found that one out from my buddy that has a new XR1200. Course, Harelys don't use the same oil for the tranny.

The only time I have ever had a bad experience with car oils in bikes was when I was using Castrol GTX oil. I had two bikes end up with clutch slippage, which went away after switching to the Shell stuff. Needless to say, I don't touch Castrol anymore.
 
gregMo

gregMo

New Member
...belive it or not but castrol is not a synthetic oil, also it's labeled as it is... Just 4
That reason I will never touch castrol again...
I need to try rotella next time. Do they have 10-40 in full synthetic???
 
dmb367

dmb367

New Member
gregMo;79822 wrote: ...belive it or not but castrol is not a synthetic oil, also it's labeled as it is... Just 4
That reason I will never touch castrol again...
I need to try rotella next time. Do they have 10-40 in full synthetic???
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Shell Rotella T Full Syn is not a true Class IV synthetic, so you better not touch it either :banghead:
 
Meat

Meat

Member
HondaGalToo;79893 wrote: Marketing and lawsuits by Mobil against Castrol. Most oils that call themselves "full synthetic" are highly refined, but still have a PAO base. A true full synthetic will be ester-based. Motul 300V is one; it's green and smells like bananas/coconuts! I forget all the specifics, but I found this for your reading pleasure:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
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Thanks Judy. I actually knew that Rotella is often called "hydro cracked Synthetic" and that it is not a true synthetic, which has more uniform molecular structure and therefore flows better and doesn’t have the lager molecules present in conventional oils that often impede flow to an extent (on a very small scale, at the surface level).

I was just hassling the guy and wanted to see if he knew why synthetic was good and why he would stay away from Rotella Synthetic since many racers and others use it with fantastic results.
 
HondaGalToo

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
Oh, hahaha, missed that part, about the hassling. Shoot, as long as you change it often, well, ya know...it's all good.
 
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