R1 help

[Ron R]

2004. Need a new clutch and not going with slipper type. Any advice on a brand that holds up would be appreciated. Also my throttle bodies close slowly when I let off of gas at 400o or more rpm while sitting in neutral. If I close by hand they shut quickly. Checked cables and spring and the grip snaps back quickly when I let go so I'm a little confused. I know it fly by wire so if it's computer stuff I'll take it in. Thanks for your help.

 

[Ron R]

Ok not fly by wire?

 

[Thunderace]

I had a stock clutch and had no problems. I got a great deal on an STM and figured I would give it a try. Best decision I made with the old bike by far. It made it about 7 years or so of track riding until I wore down the pressure plates to the point it began to slip terribly. I didn't want to spend the money to replace the slipper, so I went back to the original basket. I was able to ride easily with the stock clutch, but corner entry just wasn't the same. I have always used stock fibers and plates in the bike.

I put the Motion Pro throttle and cables on my bike several years ago. Getting the cables attached at the throttle bodies was one of the hardest things I've ever had to do on my bikes. Compared to the stock cables, the Motion Pro cables were a little shorter overall. I noticed the difference with the amount of slack I had running through the forks. I can't imagine why yours would be longer unless they are the wrong part.

My bike has been through a few engines in the last couple years, but I've never had any problems with the throttle or throttle bodies. So I can't help in that regard.

 

[Thunderace]

Oh and I forgot to mention what I have on the new bike. It has the FTECU clutchless up and down shifter. It is by far the best thing I have ever had installed on a bike, without question. The first time I rode it, I was flabbergasted! You never touch the clutch when out on the track. It is so friggin' seamless I can't put it into words.

 

[tad158]

Have you cleaned the throttle bodies? Have you pulled the cables out of the bike? And see is the move freely? Have you checked that the throttle tube moves freely on the clipon and is properly lubricated?

An 04 is NOT throttle by wire, and doesn't really benefit from a flash.

 

[Ron R]

Cables move Very freely. You can see and hear how quickly it snaps closed. That's what makes me think it may be computer related rather than mechanical. I watched the servo driven butterflies when checking it out. They definitely close at different rates depending on how I work the throttle. As lm typing these post I Do realize it sounds impossible. I'm not very good with computers but I did spend my first eleven years out of high school working in the automotive and motorcycle industry. Certified mechanic to machining and building race engines. But that was some time ago and I was getting out of it when computers and electronic fuel injection was coming in. I really appreciate any and all help. Thanks

 

[Ron R]

Update. I removed the clutch cover to check wear and to my surprise I found an STM clutch. So maybe I just don't get how they work. Do they have to warm up? I haven't been able to get farther than my driveway (100 yrds) due to weather. But after warming the engine and running down the driveway it slips when the power comes in. Thanks

 

[wmhjr]

Update. I removed the clutch cover to check wear and to my surprise I found an STM clutch. So maybe I just don't get how they work. Do they have to warm up? I haven't been able to get farther than my driveway (100 yrds) due to weather. But after warming the engine and running down the driveway it slips when the power comes in. Thanks

I have YoYo slippers in both of my bikes. It should not slip until it's warmed up. My guess it that the clutch pack (plates) are worn. The STM slipper is of the same general "ball and ramp" design as the Yoyo. The clutch basket itself is pretty durable. What happens is when there is reverse torque on the clutch basket (meaning like engine braking), the basket is essentially spring loaded, and rotates on ball bearings in machined channels, slightly separating the basket, and lowering friction between the friction and steel plates in the clutch pack. Or, in other words, allowing it to "slip". When there is positive torque applied, the basket can't rotate in that direction, so the clutch pack operates normally.

This means that the clutch plates will wear a bit more because every time the slipper is "slipping" it's causing some wear on those friction plates. So, you have to replace the clutch plates. Not a big deal at all. When applying throttle, a Yoyo or STM should not slip regardless of whether the bike is warm or not.

 

[Ron R]

STM specific plates or any R1 plates will work? Thanks

 

[Thunderace]

Update. I removed the clutch cover to check wear and to my surprise I found an STM clutch. So maybe I just don't get how they work. Do they have to warm up? I haven't been able to get farther than my driveway (100 yrds) due to weather. But after warming the engine and running down the driveway it slips when the power comes in. Thanks

You can't get the STM to slip unless you put some serious load on it. Riding in your front street is not enough. I never warmed the clutch any more than just warming up the bike for normal use.

 

[Ron R]

You can't get the STM to slip unless you put some serious load on it. Riding in your front street is not enough. I never warmed the clutch any more than just warming up the bike for normal use.

Not saying your wrong but I've blasted many a bike down my driveway (street and dirt) and all but my Harley pulls up the front end when they start to hit the power band. When the mph acceleration rate ceases to match the engine acceleration rate Usually one of two are happening. Rear tire spin or clutch slipping. I'm positive the tire didn't spin. So if your saying the clutch didn't ether then where did all that energy go. Not trying to be argumentative just wanting to learn. Thanks.

 

[Thunderace]

I am referring to the clutch slipping under deceleration, the way a slipper clutch is supposed to work correctly. If the clutch is slipping under acceleration, you need new plates and fibers. In the seven or so years I had the STM, I had to replace the plates and fibers several times.

 

[Ron R]

I am referring to the clutch slipping under deceleration, the way a slipper clutch is supposed to work correctly. If the clutch is slipping under acceleration, you need new plates and fibers. In the seven or so years I had the STM, I had to replace the plates and fibers several times.

I figured we were at different ends on that. Any rebuild kits you recommend? And it looks like I need a special socket to take it apart? I had to leave right after I got the cover off. Thanks

 

[wmhjr]

STM specific plates or any R1 plates will work? Thanks

I don't know with the STMs. I only know about the YoYo, and it specifies OEM clutch packs. I believe the STM is the same but you should check with somebody that is familiar with them to be sure. You also need an install/maintenance guide. With the YoYo, you're putting the friction and steel plates back in but using a different order from inside and out. You also sometimes put the anti-chatter spring in a different location sometimes. It is a specific application issue, so you need to know the correct install/remove for your particular year/model.

 

[Ron R]

Yeah I called one store that sells them and they had zero info. Said info should come with clutch. Told him I didn't buy clutch. He said good luck. I'll try YouTube. Thanks

 

[Thunderace]

There is an STM install thread on the R1 forum with pictures write up. I used it to work on mine. I had the STM wrench but just sold it last year. You will need it or make one to get the basket off.

 

[Ron R]

That might be what I was just checking out. Lots of good pictures. But he left out torque specs. Thanks

 

[wmhjr]

According to one place I looked, an '04 R1 would have an STM FYA-S100 slipper clutch. It uses OEM friction plates, drive plates, and basket.

Again, what I don't know is the order of the clutch/friction plates, etc - as they can be different than when installing the OEM plates in an OEM clutch - and can be different between make/model/year of bike.

Personally I also found that it was about impossible to look at the friction or steel plates and find anything other than the color of the dot (on Suzuki OEM plates) to differentiate them between each other. Part numbers are different for the individual plates. Looking at the parts diagram for the '04 R1, though, it looks like all the friction plates are the same, and all the steel plates are the same so it might be a non-issue.

 

[Ron R]

Made the tool so tomorrow I'll take it apart. I was able to find out some info but still need torque for reassemble. Thanks

 

[Ron R]

There is an STM install thread on the R1 forum with pictures write up. I used it to work on mine. I had the STM wrench but just sold it last year. You will need it or make one to get the basket off.

Can you tell me where to find that. Info for these is scarce. Thanks.