Racing and clutch wear question

[tankslapper]

2nd year racing my GSX-R 750 and during my last race weekend noticed clutch slipping at 13,000 rpm or so at peak power. Questions are this. After two years of hard racing would it be about time to replace a clutch? If so, what parts do I need to replace? Lastly, on my Suzuki w slipper clutch, which I don't think I take apart or get to, is this a rather straight forward job I can do myself without too much aggravation? Any comments appreciated.

Thanks
Marty

 

[RacerRuss]

With my R6, I go through a clutch about every 15-20 individual race starts, so about every 5 race weekends. Not sure about the Zooks, but I would expect it to be a little better since you don't have to launch at 11krpm.

 

[sobottka]

RacerRuss;147851 wrote: With my R6, I go through a clutch about every 15-20 individual race starts, so about every 5 race weekends. Not sure about the Zooks, but I would expect it to be a little better since you don't have to launch at 11krpm.

wow! my stock R6 clutch lasted 5500 (track/race only) miles??? probably 50+ race starts and i only replaced the steels :dunno:
replacing a clutch isnt too hard or too expensive. get a service manual, that should help. replace the steels and friction plates to be safe.

 

[avizpls]

more or less goes like this

drain oil ?
remove clutch cover
use a hook thingamajig to wiggle out the plates
install in proper order *there is often a curved plate and thicker plates that have specific locations*
install clutch cover
add oil ?
start.

 

[gixxercurt]

i would make sure to go back with an oem clutch/steels

 

[LesPow]

avizpls;147870 wrote: more or less goes like this

drain oil ?
remove clutch cover
use a hook thingamajig to wiggle out the plates
install in proper order *there is often a curved plate and thicker plates that have specific locations*
install clutch cover
add oil ?
start.

Start bike First! and Warm up oil and Drain bolt before cracking open.

 

[Todd Lewis]

A couple of thoughts on this thread.

My R6 clutch has lasted for 23,000 track miles, including countless race and practice starts.(I understand replacing preemptively if chasing points Russ).

I do not warm up my motor prior to draining the oil. Modern oils have particle suspension watch-a-ma-call-its that make this unnecessary. Just another cold start on your motor. If a motor has been idle long enough to negate this, I would drain and refill with cheap oil, run to operating temp, then drain.

YMMV... I'm a tard.

 

[LesPow]

T. Lewis;148172 wrote: A couple of thoughts on this thread.

I do not warm up my motor prior to draining the oil. Modern oils have particle suspension watch-a-ma-call-its that make this unnecessary. Just another cold start on your motor. If a motor has been idle long enough to negate this, I would drain and refill with cheap oil, run to operating temp, then drain.

YMMV... I'm a tard.

A friend once cracked his oil pan while trying to pull his drain bolt. I heard it was advisable to warm the engine/oil pan/oil, to avoid that happening and hot/warm oil supposedly drains out better.