Safety Wire Info

devildogae

Member
So I found a local shop that can drill holes for safety wire, so my question is what all should I wire up for next season? If anyone has pics of their wire jobs, a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
devildogae;295039 wrote: So I found a local shop that can drill holes for safety wire, so my question is what all should I wire up for next season? If anyone has pics of their wire jobs, a picture is worth a thousand words.
No need to pay a shop for it. It's easy to do. Buy a pack of cheap 1/16th drill bits from Harbor Freight, and go to town.
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
andykurz;295041 wrote: http://www.emra.ca/Tech%20Tips/Tech%20Tips.htm

I don't understand wiring the hose clamps & chain link, but it's a good primer nonetheless!
Chain link is for chains that have clip on master links, not riveted. Unless you're riding some YSR50 or Ninja 250, EVERY track bike, regardless of displacement, should run a rivet master link.

Leave clip on links for dirt bikes, there's no place for them on sport bikes.
 

bmrboy

New Member
Otto Man;295042 wrote: No need to pay a shop for it. It's easy to do. Buy a pack of cheap 1/16th drill bits from Harbor Freight, and go to town.


True , True ...... Like Otto Man says .... Buy a BIG pack of bits , get a center punch & vice .....
Start at the front & work your way back .... Lock-tite & wire ..... I get a little OCD when it comes to bike prep
But you'll never have to worry about things falling off ...... :agree: Have fun !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

mmmfishrighton

Control Rider
One thing I would disagree with. Do not buy crappy bits. It makes it more of a PITA. The best bits that I have used are the Dewalt Titanium 1/16th. Found at Lowes or Home Depot.

Other bits will break way easier and I've yet to break a Dewalt.
 

Meat

Member
I used quality bits as well when I wired my 636. I didn't break a single bit. I also used lube to keep the bits sharp as long as I could.
 

HondaGalToo

Control Rider
I suck at drilling, so I opted to buy predrilled bolts from Pro-Bolt.
The only things required to be wired in Nesba's A group are the oil filter, drain plug, and filler cap. That being said, I have more stuff wired than that. Can't hurt, that's for damned sure.
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
mmmfishrighton;295068 wrote: One thing I would disagree with. Do not buy crappy bits. It makes it more of a PITA. The best bits that I have used are the Dewalt Titanium 1/16th. Found at Lowes or Home Depot.

Other bits will break way easier and I've yet to break a Dewalt.
There's two methods you could go with.

1)Buy quality bits that will last longer

2)Buy a TON of cheap drill bits, and discard them when they aren't sharp anymore.

I went the 2nd route, and in my opinion, it's way easier. 1/16" drill bits are freaking tiny. Even the highest quality drill bits will break easily. I buy them in packs of 10 from Harbor Freight for like a dollar a pack. I will drill one or two bolts, and when it gets dull, I don't even waste time trying to sharpen them. I just throw 'em away.

Too much pressure on the drill bit is going to easily break it - whether it's a quality drill bit or not. The only difference with my way, is that I don't complain about snapping a $4 drill bit.

For anything bigger than 1/8", yes, quality steel bits make all the difference in the world in terms of longevity and retaining their sharpness. It's just not worth spending money on tiny drill bits for something as non-critical (In terms of precision hole sizing) as drilling bolts for safety wire. I will admit that I broke about 4 or 5 bits pretty quickly when I first started, but once I got the hang of how much pressure it would take to snap on, I didn't break them nearly as often. They went dull before they broke.
 

mmmfishrighton

Control Rider
Otto Man;295122 wrote: There's two methods you could go with.

1)Buy quality bits that will last longer

2)Buy a TON of cheap drill bits, and discard them when they aren't sharp anymore.

I went the 2nd route, and in my opinion, it's way easier. 1/16" drill bits are freaking tiny. Even the highest quality drill bits will break easily. I buy them in packs of 10 from Harbor Freight for like a dollar a pack. I will drill one or two bolts, and when it gets dull, I don't even waste time trying to sharpen them. I just throw 'em away.

Too much pressure on the drill bit is going to easily break it - whether it's a quality drill bit or not. The only difference with my way, is that I don't complain about snapping a $4 drill bit.

For anything bigger than 1/8", yes, quality steel bits make all the difference in the world in terms of longevity and retaining their sharpness. It's just not worth spending money on tiny drill bits for something as non-critical (In terms of precision hole sizing) as drilling bolts for safety wire. I will admit that I broke about 4 or 5 bits pretty quickly when I first started, but once I got the hang of how much pressure it would take to snap on, I didn't break them nearly as often. They went dull before they broke.

I have tried both of your options and prefer option number. Never broken a Dewalt Titanium but I have broken the cheap bits off in a bolt, which then becomes a pain in the ass to get out. Have you tried the Dewalt bits? You might like them better.

Also, I avoid Harbor Freight at all cost for anything. No likey.
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
devildogae;295135 wrote: Do any of you use a jig? Right now I don't have a punch or vice or a place to put them.
I safety wired most of the bolts for my R6 while they were on the bike. With the bolt torqued, I used a spring loaded center punch where I wanted the hole to be. I loosened the bolt a few turns, and turned it so the drill could fit. Drill it, re torque it, done.

The ones I couldn't do, I clamped the body of the bolt with a pair of vise grips and held the vice grips with a 2x4 underneath the bolt. Redneck as hell, but it did work just fine.
 

Dave561

Control Rider
Ive tried the drill press and vice option and prefer the vice. The hardest part of drilling is applyong too much pressure. Bits are about as trong as a toothpic. And the other issue is they want to grab and break as they exit the bolt. Once you get a feel for the amount of pressure an drely on the bit to work on exit by easing up on the presure you will be able to get through numerous bolts with a bit vs numerous bits to a bolt. I built a jig from a pice of oak. Take the oak and rip it lengthwise and drill a series of holes to hold various sized bolts.
 

devildogae

Member
Just an update for those interested in safety wiring for the first time. I did go get a center punch and vice + cheep bits. I drilled all my front caliper bolts now, but I did break the head of my bit off inside the caliper bolt. Then I went and got titanium bits, and wow what a difference a good quality bit made. I accurately was able to put pressure without snapping any. Worth the couple bucks I spent at lowes.
 

mmmfishrighton

Control Rider
devildogae;298483 wrote: Just an update for those interested in safety wiring for the first time. I did go get a center punch and vice + cheep bits. I drilled all my front caliper bolts now, but I did break the head of my bit off inside the caliper bolt. Then I went and got titanium bits, and wow what a difference a good quality bit made. I accurately was able to put pressure without snapping any. Worth the couple bucks I spent at lowes.
:) Yes, I win, John and his crappy bits lose.
 

Ruhe52

Member
Safety Wire Info

Slow speed with a jig in a vice. Drill press is even better. Punch works nice as well.
Wire anything that holds back fluid and obvious things caliper bolts pinch bolts etc.
no loc tite just a little grease. No need to glue it in and wire it it's not going anywhere and loc tite is crap to work with grease and just stay on top of your stuff.
Proper torque
Save the bolt glue for stuff
Like stator bolts and such and in that case red.
You prolly mentioned it but you wiring for the sake of or you looking to meet race requirements or just Nesba?

No matter why though I commend you on being responsible and wiring your bike.
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
mmmfishrighton;298484 wrote: :) Yes, I win, John and his crappy bits lose.
:D

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