Safety wire size??

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
So I'm slowly getting a basic track day tool kit together and I have purchased a set of safety wire pliers and wire. My problem is that the safety wire I purchased was way too big, 0.041. I knew it was probably too big but that was all that was available at that store. I have found several other sizes at different locations since then. The 2 most common sizes for bikes that I have come across are 0.028 and 0.032. What size do you use and why? Does one size have more benefits? Any other information would help. Just to let you know the pliers are Harbor Freight special. They are labeled as 6" pliers wire 8.25 inch length over all.
 

kevin kline

Control Rider
.0032 is what I always used and most use. This is what most motorcycle sites sell. Never tried anything else works great.
 

ninjamansc

THE Comstock
Control Rider
That's exactly what I have in my home tool box. Same size only much smaller for trackside use.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
Thanks guys.
Now I have to figure out what I'm going to do with this thicker wire. Probably make hangers unless someone wants it next time I make it to the track.
 

mpusch

Micah

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
Just to be clear does anyone know if the clips can be used on the drain plug? I think that I have heard the same thing as Micah but I would like to know for sure.
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
It doesn't directly state in the N2 rider's manual that you can't use clips - so until it's changed, clips are OK to use. HOWEVER...I would not use a clip on the drain plug. Not just because that's the safety wiring rule with WERA/CCS (can't use spring clips on drain bolt), but simply because you don't change your oil often enough for it to be a hassle. Spring clips for the fill plug, caliper bolts, pinch bolts, etc? Go for it.
 

wmhjr

Grandpa
Control Rider
Don't use a clip on the drain plug! Like John said, it only takes 30 seconds to wire it. Do it right! That plug and the filter are too important to compromise
 

wmhjr

Grandpa
Control Rider
Eddie, that's true. But remember - rules for CCS, WERA and N2 are not all necessarily the same. N2 Advanced is pretty close to CCS but not exactly the same. WERA is a bit more draconian in terms of what needs to be wired. Sometimes there are some caveats too - such as using a dab of silicone in place of safety wire.

But in any case - oil filters and drain plugs should be safety wired. No clips. No silicone.

This, BTW is a VERY good point to bring up for tech. We're starting to see more and more brand new R1's and '17 GSXR1000s coming through tech. Those rocket ships are almost track ready right off the dealer floor - EXCEPT they don't have drain plugs or filters wired.

PLEASE!!!!! If you're in Advanced it's MANDATORY - and if you're in Intermediate, it's pretty darned close. Safety wire those oil drain plugs and filters. Also, even though it's not required, I recommend safety wiring your radiator cap. We would all feel very bad to turn away a bike and rider who drive 8 hours to an event because they can't pass tech. And if you're in Intermediate but are hoping for a bump to Advanced, do yourself (and others) a big favor and prep your bike to Advanced standards! Even if you're in Novice, but are spending a good bit of time on the track, do yourself a favor and avoid leaking oil ending up on your rear tire.

If there are enough questions and a group of people want a quick tutorial on prepping a bike, let us know and maybe we could do a quick seminar/demo in the evening at an event or two.
 

wmhjr

Grandpa
Control Rider
I should also mention for the safety wiring newbies - there is actually a "correct" way to safety wire. Neither us, nor either CCS or WERA in my experience have really required anything other than safety wire being applied and twisted for the required parts. However, the correct way to safety wire is to actually insert the wire through the bolt head, and wrap around clockwise (for a standard right hand thread) and then twist. And there should be zero slack between it and the spot you're securing it. This serves to maintain tension "tightening" the bolt - not just keep it from moving too much. Anybody who's been either around aviation or car racing knows what I'm talking about.

http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/blog/images/2016/how-to-safety-wire/safety-wire-3.jpg
 

Mike:p

Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
If there are enough questions and a group of people want a quick tutorial on prepping a bike, let us know and maybe we could do a quick seminar/demo in the evening at an event or two.

I think that is a great idea! I would love to learn how to safety wire a whole bike. Learn how to do it right from the beginning. Could a bike be set up completely wired so people could take pictures of it, have someone there to show where to mark the bolts for drilling and how to pull the wire in the correct direction so that it puts tension on the bolts. A checklist would be cool too. I don't know when it could be done, at lunchtime or at the end of the day, but I would be there no matter what time. This would be one more thing to add to the list of N2's awesomeness.
 

Dave561

Control Rider
Director
End of day on a double weekend would be the best. I've done it in the past. Bring 1/16" drill bits and if wanting to do oils drain bolt, bring oil and do a change at track. Won't drill in place easily
 

Otto Man

John
Control Rider
I should also mention for the safety wiring newbies - there is actually a "correct" way to safety wire. Neither us, nor either CCS or WERA in my experience have really required anything other than safety wire being applied and twisted for the required parts. However, the correct way to safety wire is to actually insert the wire through the bolt head, and wrap around clockwise (for a standard right hand thread) and then twist. And there should be zero slack between it and the spot you're securing it. This serves to maintain tension "tightening" the bolt - not just keep it from moving too much. Anybody who's been either around aviation or car racing knows what I'm talking about.

http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/blog/images/2016/how-to-safety-wire/safety-wire-3.jpg

I agree with Bill 100% on this. If you ask the race orgs and people who've been in the game for a minute, you'll learn that the point of safety wiring for our sport isn't actually for the secured purpose of safety wiring (like in air planes and stuff). It serves more of a reminder to yourself that if a bolt that is normally safety wired (via clips or not) isn't wired, it's a reminder of "Hey numb nut, don't forget to tighten this". From a mechanical standpoint, there isn't any real need to safety wire it (Look at MotoGP bikes...no wired caliper bolts/pinch bolts on there). I would strongly advise to anyone that out of good habit, do not start a nut or bolt unless you plan to torque it right then and there. Otherwise, you leave the possibility of forgetting about it. That's where the safety wire rule is supposed to catch your mistake. "Hey that's not safety wired, let me double check it before I wire it...oh shit, I never tightened it..."

The wiring doesn't have to be airplane inspection ready, hence the reason clips are allowed. As long as the bolt can't turn 360 degrees once wired (So it can't back out all the way), that's all that matters.
 

wmhjr

Grandpa
Control Rider
John is right. Torque to spec immediately after putting the bolt in and tightening it. Too many stories about loose bolts just due to lost attention, lack of sleep, or (most typically) getting interrupted while wrenching.

We'll talk about doing a session on prepping a bike. I wasn't thinking of actually drilling bolts out - I usually use a drill press and jig the bolts. But Dave is right that the middle night of a 2 day event makes the most sense. Have to do it early too - as we have a reputation to maintain in terms of social activities :)
 

Motofun352

Control Rider
Could be I'm the odd one here......I use the 0.028". It's just a little easier to thread through those damn tiny holes...7 twists per inch was how I was taught but I just take a FWAG at it usually. Oh....don't leave those "sharps" (ie cut-offs) lieing around.
 

mpusch

Micah
Could be I'm the odd one here......I use the 0.028". It's just a little easier to thread through those damn tiny holes...7 twists per inch was how I was taught but I just take a FWAG at it usually. Oh....don't leave those "sharps" (ie cut-offs) lieing around.

Great, great point about the excess. That stuff will stick right into your tire. Throw the scrap out immediately.
 
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