Steering Damper Settings

[D52]

Looking for recommendations as far as how “soft” I should adjust my steering damper for next weekend. I’m currently a novice rider and completed 4 track days last year on my street bike (14 D675 - mostly stock). Late last fall I picked up an 07 D675 track bike with a Pitbull damper (20 clicks) already installed. I have never ridden a bike with a damper before and am not sure what a good “starting point” would be, if you will. Additionally, other than a quick ride or 2 around the block, the upcoming weekend at Summit will essentially be my first time riding the bike. On top of that, it is also my first bike that I’ve had the suspension adjusted for my weight, my first bike with GP shift, I’m without a quickshifter (at least for the time being… my street bike has one) and it's my first time at Summit.


Needless to say, my plan for the first several sessions is to just take it easy and acclimate myself to everything so I do not want to add an additional variable with damper settings at this time. What’s an appropriate range for settings for someone in my situation?


Thanks in advance!

 

[mpusch]

I have the same year Daytona, but with a gpr V1 damper. I usually run it at about 5 out of 10. Want it to do something for you without it noticeably affecting your feel (at least that's what I go by, kind of vague, I know).

I think given the quick handling of the Daytona, a damper is pretty important.

 

[buzz-06]

set it at 3-5 clicks and go have fun, if the bike becomes unruly coming out of the corners and really starts shaking its head then turn it up a little but I don't think you'll have issues. Come find me in the pits next weekend and say hi, black dodge with a black/red Suzuki

 

[mpusch]

I'd also suggest double-checking that there's no air or inconsistency in the travel. For my first year I didn't realize at the max of turning the bars I would lose dampening. Had a nice tankslapper on the front straight at pittrace. Not sure if the damper would have prevented it, but I always make sure mine is serviced and in good shape now.

 

[D-Zum]

Agree with the guys who have already posted. You want to run it at the lowest setting possible.

When I got my 1198S I didn't love the handling right away. It's only for street riding, but still felt like it took a lot of effort to
get the bike to turn. I took a shot at considering the damper as the culprit. I took out two clicks, and it was like a whole new
bike.

 

[bmart]

I have a Scotts on my R6 and run it 6 clicks out from full damping.

 

[D52]

I appreciate everyone's input!

I have the same year Daytona, but with a gpr V1 damper. I usually run it at about 5 out of 10. Want it to do something for you without it noticeably affecting your feel (at least that's what I go by, kind of vague, I know).

I think given the quick handling of the Daytona, a damper is pretty important.

I kinda get what you're saying. I'm new to using a damper and didn't want to get too involved in figuring out optimal settings, but at the same time didn't want to completely blow off any benefit, especially since I've read in a few different places that it's a useful addition to a Daytona

set it at 3-5 clicks and go have fun, if the bike becomes unruly coming out of the corners and really starts shaking its head then turn it up a little but I don't think you'll have issues. Come find me in the pits next weekend and say hi, black dodge with a black/red Suzuki

Agree with the guys who have already posted. You want to run it at the lowest setting possible.

When I got my 1198S I didn't love the handling right away. It's only for street riding, but still felt like it took a lot of effort to
get the bike to turn. I took a shot at considering the damper as the culprit. I took out two clicks, and it was like a whole new
bike.

The previous owner had it at 7/20. I dialed it back to 4 and was surprised at what a difference 3 clicks made just in the garage. I took it for a quick ride around the block and 4 is definitely easier to handle than 7 and feels more like my street bike. It may or may not be the most ideal track setting, but the "feel" is familiar and that makes for a good starting point. I can adjust from there.

 

[Gorilla]

Run it as light as possible a lot headshake is usually a geometry problem

 

[buzz-06]

Run it as light as possible a lot headshake is usually a geometry problem

+1 to this, I didn't want to get to involved with my previous post because you're still pretty new to track riding. A damper helps with headshake but should never be used to mask the problem either, if the bike is shaking its head a lot then you've got other issues. For reference I won and podiumed in my fair share of novice races running pretty respectable times with a worn out stock damper on an 06 R1, I only had it on there because it's required.