Torque specs for R6 rear wheel drive hub nuts

[Bossgobbler]

The service manual for my 07 R6 specifies 100 Nm (72 ftlb) for the rear wheel sprocket self-locking nuts. This seems high. The "general" tightening torque for a garden variety (steel) 14 mm nut is 30 Nm (22 ftlb), which seems reasonable. I thought that since the nut and bolt are steel, perhaps the spec of 100 Nm was correct, if unusual. I now think the 100 Nm value is a typo, as I stripped one of the nuts trying to achieve 100 Nm. :doh: Another possibility is that I used a torque wrench that maxes at 100 Nm. I understand that the accuracy at the extremes of the torque wrench are off, but I didn't think it would be so much as to result in damage.

Does anyone know the correct tightening torque specs for the the 07 R6 drive hub? Any other ideas? Thanks.

 

[flyR6]

I've had 3 R6s and a R1, all had 72ft-lbs for the torque on the rear. I use a Craftsman 150ft-lb torque wrench and never had any problems.

I would say the manual is correct and to get a torque wrench of at least 100ft-lbs. Most items calibrated are recommended to be used in 50-75% of max range for the most accurate readings.

 

[jimmeigs]

My 2006 r6 service manuel specifies the following: REAR WHEEL AXEL NUT - 110NM, REAR WHEEL SPROCKET NUT - 100NM, REAR WHEEL DISC BOLT 30NM.

Send me your email and I'll send you the .pdf version of the service manuel.

 

[greeny]

although it's the proper torque, i've heard of a lot of people having problems breaking off the studs. maybe there's too many cheap wrenches out there, i dunno. either way, i usually get mine to about 50 ft-lbs and call it a day. i've never had a problem with that.

 

[Bossgobbler]

jimmeigs;180881 wrote: My 2006 r6 service manuel specifies the following: REAR WHEEL AXEL NUT - 110NM, REAR WHEEL SPROCKET NUT - 100NM, REAR WHEEL DISC BOLT 30NM.

Send me your email and I'll send you the .pdf version of the service manuel.

Thanks for the offer. I have the 2007 manual, which quotes the same specs. I just questioned whether they were correct.

 

[BillFred]

My 03 says 72 also. I've cranked mine down to about 50. I was worried about shearing off studs also.

 

[jimmeigs]

I did shear off a stud last year trying to get them to 100nm. I pretightened to around 50nm then when I went to 100, one of the studs sheared. I had the stud reintalled by Turn One Racing since I was going to have some more stuff done anyway. Not sure what Joe tightened them to but I had no issue for the track year with them.

 

[Andrei]

I hand tightened mine . True story.

 

[buzz-06]

this was talked about on the wera forum not long ago, I believe the general consensus was somewhere in the rhelm of 22-30ftlbs and blue loctite. Thats what I torqued mine to on my R1 and knock on wood I havent had on fly off yet.

 

[pearsonm]

I think 100 NM is standard in Japanese sportbike manuals. I agree it seems too high - I warped the crap out of the washer on my SV. I'm too chicken to go less than 90, especially since my current bike has no safety pin.

Anybody else out there have a F4i? What do you set yours at?

 

[Lonewrench]

Torque rear axle to 100 nm if you desire 80 will do since there is a fuji style axle nut on it. The sprocket carrier nuts are good @ 40 nm as well.

 

[Smithereens]

I sheared one with a good torque wrench. Considering the nuts are self locking something less tha 72lbs with a little blue loctite should be sufficient. If you're going to go all the way to 72lbs make sure the stud threads are cleaned of old loctite before you torque the nuts on.

 

[trailmug]

I agree that 100Nm (74 ft/lbs) on a M10 nut is too high. I have a suspicion that would put you into the plastic (no reuse) range of the steel.. Even a 12.9 M10x1.50 bolt is preloaded around 60 ft/lbs. I'm certain these are not 12.9 studs. I'm in favor of thinking this is an error. Or they expect you to buy a new cush drive hub with every sprocket.

FYI: Honda specifies 64Nm (47 ft/lbs) on the CBR.

Edit: they may be figuring in extra torque to combat the self-locking wings on the nut, but if that's the case, I will bet they are not intended to be reused.

 

[geekmug]

trailmug;181191 wrote: FYI: Honda specifies 64Nm (47 ft/lbs) on the CBR.

Edit: they may be figuring in extra torque to combat the self-locking wings on the nut, but if that's the case, I will bet they are not intended to be reused.

For what it's worth, they are those same kind of self-locking nuts on a CBR.

 

[bigkaley]

'06/7 GSXR's are also "indicated" to be torqued to 67.5 lb/ft. That was "nuts"... more than a few incidents of stripped sprocket nuts on those years... now the '08 and up is listed at 43 lb/ft. Better. Anything above 45 lb/ft on sprocket nuts on any bike is nuts.....

Also, that's under the assumption that the sprocket nuts are the OEM steel nuts. If they've been replaced with Aluminum aftermarket nuts, now we're down to maybe 25 lb/ft.

Manuals have good information, but are written by humans who of course sometimes make mistakes...

 

[Bossgobbler]

bigkaley;181222 wrote: '06/7 GSXR's are also "indicated" to be torqued to 67.5 lb/ft. That was "nuts"... more than a few incidents of stripped sprocket nuts on those years... now the '08 and up is listed at 43 lb/ft. Better. Anything above 45 lb/ft on sprocket nuts on any bike is nuts.....

Also, that's under the assumption that the sprocket nuts are the OEM steel nuts. If they've been replaced with Aluminum aftermarket nuts, now we're down to maybe 25 lb/ft.

Manuals have good information, but are written by humans who of course sometimes make mistakes...

Thanks Tom. You know, I thought about consulting you about the spec, but decided even I could do this simple job without screwing it up. I must have been nuts.

I placed an order for new OEM studs that are expected to arrive 4/12-4/14. That gives me one last chance to fix this before I head down to NJMP for the 16/17 with Absolute.

While we're on the topic, any precautionary advice for installing the new studs on the drive hub? Thanks!

Steve S

 

[bigkaley]

Steve,
I'd suggest that once you get the old studs out (use some heat from a heat gun, butane torch etc.) if they used Loc-Tite, which I'm guessing they do, then clean/ chase the threads of the old Loc-Tite. Also, not sure if you're using the "double nut" method to get the studs out or if you actually have a stud installation set, but either will work. Then install the new studs with Red Loc-Tite until they "seat" on the shoulder in the center of the stud and snug them. Don't worry about over tightening them. Install the sprocket and new nuts and torque to around 45 lb/ft.

Tom.

 

[Bossgobbler]

bigkaley;181250 wrote: Steve,
I'd suggest that once you get the old studs out (use some heat from a heat gun, butane torch etc.) if they used Loc-Tite, which I'm guessing they do, then clean/ chase the threads of the old Loc-Tite. Also, not sure if you're using the "double nut" method to get the studs out or if you actually have a stud installation set, but either will work. Then install the new studs with Red Loc-Tite until they "seat" on the shoulder in the center of the stud and snug them. Don't worry about over tightening them. Install the sprocket and new nuts and torque to around 45 lb/ft.

Tom.

Double nut method! TWSS! Thanks Tom. The old studs came loose with a little coaxing from a heat gun and Vise Grips. I'll plan to use the "double nut" approach for installation.

Is a tap the best tool for chasing the female threads of old Loc-Tite?

This would be a good point for PJ to hijack the thread and take it to a different dimension. Perhaps a "double nut" Haiku?

 

[Matt]

Lonewrench;180967 wrote: Torque rear axle to 100 nm if you desire 80 will do since there is a fuji style axle nut on it. The sprocket carrier nuts are good @ 40 nm as well.

correct as always!

 

[sasrocks]

72 lb ft per the manual is too much, as stated before something around 1/2 that is more to order. They will strip.