Towing: Questions about Payload and Towing Capacity

sasrocks

New Member
pearsonm;109134 wrote: I want to go the F-150 and 5x8 enclosed trailer route but would mean getting a storage unit. I live in suburbia and don't have access to my back yard, otherwise I'd have a shop.

Loading the bike in the bed has its advantages which is why I stuck with it so long. Even with my S-10 I drove no different than I normally do. I got a generator when I moved up to slicks and thought I had everything I needed, but now I think I've got to bring a 2nd set of rims. I'm out of room and I'm tired of teetering a hot, 400-lb bike over a ramp and tailgate.
Get you the F-150 and a used 6*12 v-nose. Life, it's too short. You will love it, trust me.
 

Blueberry

New Member
With similar garage space issues, I am going with a Kendon as well. There are cheaper options but you get what you pay for. As someone else mentioned, if you buy it used you can probably sell it later for about what you paid anyway. cycyletrader.com had a few single bike units for sale.

I am also going to try a Geza cover for bad weather (gezagear.com). They are a bit pricey but looks like a good option for open trailering.
 

Meat

Member
Of course there are also trailers like a Haulmark Low Hauler. I have a 7X14 V-nose that fits in my garage. There are also a couple other companies making low haulers for a bit less, but I wouldn't recommend towing it with a mini-truck, even if it did have the power.

I also considered the Kendon when I first started out. I think it is a quality trailer but I am glad I didn't get one. I just sucked it up and crammed everything in my truck until I got the 7X14 Low Hauler.

I now camp out of my enclosed trailer. I have it heated and air conditioned. So, the money I save in hotels would pay for the trailer in 2 to 3 years.

Just something to think about.
 

ThatOneGuy

New Member
Is the Kendona single axle? Just something to keep in mind is the weight you are putting on the tongue is difficult to estimate. IF you PERFECTLY distribute the weight on the trailer, as in, with one finger you can rock the tongue up and down and when you let go it comes back to perfectly level (that is not hooked to anything), then you would have zero weight on the tongue. So you could potentially have full payload still hauling your trailer.

Just something else to add to your indecision. Oh, and potentially you could dump your bike all the way on the very back of the trailer potentially creating a negative weight on the hitch therefore giving you MORE payload... I am scared to think how well your hitch would hold on though over bumps :).


ThatOneGuy
 

sasrocks

New Member
ThatOneGuy;109185 wrote: Is the Kendona single axle? Just something to keep in mind is the weight you are putting on the tongue is difficult to estimate. IF you PERFECTLY distribute the weight on the trailer, as in, with one finger you can rock the tongue up and down and when you let go it comes back to perfectly level (that is not hooked to anything), then you would have zero weight on the tongue. So you could potentially have full payload still hauling your trailer.

Just something else to add to your indecision. Oh, and potentially you could dump your bike all the way on the very back of the trailer potentially creating a negative weight on the hitch therefore giving you MORE payload... I am scared to think how well your hitch would hold on though over bumps :).


ThatOneGuy
while theoretically thats possible, the trailer is designed to have 10% or in the case of fifth wheels, up to 20% of its weight on the hitch. So without that weight distributed as designed it is going to tow poorly and dangerously. so , nice idea but doesn't work in practice.
 

ThatOneGuy

New Member
Heh, it was a comment that it is difficult to estimate how much weight you are really putting on the tongue of a trailer, disguised as amusing...


ThatOneGuy
 

sasrocks

New Member
ThatOneGuy;109188 wrote: Heh, it was a comment that it is difficult to estimate how much weight you are really putting on the tongue of a trailer, disguised as amusing...


ThatOneGuy
cool :agree:
 

rk97

Member
a big +1 to pretty much any light truck being able to tow ~5,000 lbs.

What's a bigger concern is the BRAKING capacity on smaller vehicles. I was debating between the I4 and V6 models for our SUV because of towing capacity concerns. A little research revealed that the V6 will pull 500 lbs. more, but the recommended towing weight for BOTH models was the same unless you add trailer brakes. being able to stop your trailer is just as important as being able to pull it...

Rather than a motorcycle-specific single rail trailer, I bought a folding 4x8 from harbor freight for $300 (on sale)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90154

It's 3' wide and 5' tall when folded, so it easily fits in my garage with both cars, and 3 bikes. With the pit-bull trailer restraint system, I don't even have to remove a wheel-chock to fold the trailer. The base plate is flat enough that it's not an issue.

And yes, the max cargo capacity on most cars is ridiculously low. I read 860 lbs. for my SUV. I can't even have 3 fat friends in the damn thing... That's where a truck chassis is more useful, IMHO.

and for what it's worth, that trailer I linked will hold 2 bikes in a pinch. At least the weight of 2 bikes. Fitting them on their will be the hard part.
 

ninjamansc

THE Comstock
Control Rider
rk97;109193 wrote:
And yes, the max cargo capacity on most cars is ridiculously low. I read 860 lbs. for my SUV. I can't even have 3 fat friends in the damn thing... That's where a truck chassis is more useful, IMHO.
Not always true... Our VW Touareg has 7,700 lbs towing capacity. And having the diesel makes pulling my trailer even easier. And yes, short stops are almost impossible.
So if my truck ever goes down, I can still get to the track.
 

rk97

Member
I think we're mixing up terms when we talk about cargo capacity and towing capacity.

cargo capacity is the amount of weight that is supposed to be on your vehicle's 4 tires, period. for my SUV, that's 860 lbs., inluding people, gear, and tongue weight.

As I understand it, that means the trailer weight only matters as it pertains to how much pressure is put on the tongue (i.e. pushing down on the car's chassis and tires).

so I can pack 860 lbs of 'stuff' IN the car, minus my tongue weight. The towing capacity remains constant, as long as you don't exceed the tongue weight; or rather, I would think they assume 100% cargo weight when calculating towing capacity.
 

fitz

New Member
dlockhart5x;109146 wrote:

sometimes bigger is better and this is one of those times
Maybe

I've gone with that bigger is better route before but I've found I like my minimalist approach better.

I use a Aluma aluminum 54" X 8' trailer with alum. sides and rubbermaid waterproof containers. Trailer, bike, tent, gear, gas etc weighs maybe about 800#s. Rarely do I notice it back there pulled by a Jeep Liberty going 70-80 through the hills of PA and WV.

Easy to maneuver through parking lots (drive thru, restaurant lots)
Minimal wind resistance. (folding gate, open)
Full rear view mirror visibility.
Better gas mileage.
Easy on tran.
Easy to get to gear at any time.
Fits perfect in my garage, hitch it up and go.

http://www.alumaklm.com/548_utility_trailer.html (mine has sides with folding gate)

http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-11920138-Action-Packer-48-Gallon/dp/B000CFV0DO/ref=acc_glance_hg_ai_-2_t_1

fitz
 

tiggen

New Member
pearsonm;109141 wrote: I was just at Home Depot last night looking at what they had. I wish I knew enough about trailers to know the difference between saving money and asking for an expensive mistake.
I had the same thoughts when I was looking for a trailer. Between buying a track bike, leathers, and all the other stuff, the 5x8 Carry On at Tractor Supply was the best I could afford.

It's worked fine for one bike for almost two years now. However, the bearings in one hub siezed, which was a real PITA but not terribly expensive or difficult to fix. It tracks pretty well behind my Avalon. Don't think it'll make it another full year though.

I want to upgrade to a covered trailer/small toy hauler to be able to camp at the track, but I also don't want to drive a full size/V8 truck daily in the city. What to do, what to do...:dunno:
 

pearsonm

New Member
Well, I just put a deposit down on a V8 4x4 Dakota so there's step# 1. A buddy at work told me to get an enclosed trailer next or don't bother coming to work.

..heavy sigh..

OK, so what are the best brands to look for? I've heard good things about Doolittles which are made here in Missouri. I'd rather get a nice, used trailer than a crappy, new one. Things like a suspension that tracks well and won't launch my bike, good wheel bearings and a floor that won't rot are important to me.

I'm picking my truck up in Chicago so if anyone knows of a good dealer between there and Springfield, MO please let me know. I'll be going through St. Louis and Springfield, IL.
 

pearsonm

New Member
tiggen;109272 wrote: I want to upgrade to a covered trailer/small toy hauler to be able to camp at the track, but I also don't want to drive a full size/V8 truck daily in the city. What to do, what to do...:dunno:
I'm going to look at 5x8's. A V6 should tow one fine. In my situation, I looked hard at Colorado's and V6 Dakota's but when it came down to it I was going to have spend money on a Colorado to get it into towing shape and a V8 4x4 Dakota gets no less gas mileage than a V6 4x2. I was also able to get a '05 V8 4x4 for the same money as an '08 V6 4x2 with not many more miles.
 

headstart

New Member
pearsonm;109273 wrote:

OK, so what are the best brands to look for? I've heard good things about Doolittles which are made here in Missouri. I'd rather get a nice, used trailer than a crappy, new one. Things like a suspension that tracks well and won't launch my bike, good wheel bearings and a floor that won't rot are important to me.

I'm picking my truck up in Chicago so if anyone knows of a good dealer between there and Springfield, MO please let me know. I'll be going through St. Louis and Springfield, IL.
Why buy a new trailer? You're going to pay tax, title, etc. If a trailer has been taken care of reasonably well they should work fine for many years. If you have some patience you can find so many good used ones out there. I bought both of my from craigslist and didn't have any issues.
http://www.searchtempest.com/ is a nice search engine that will let you find listings in many areas.

Both of mine have had torsion axles which are supposed to be an upgrade and help smooth the ride.
 

pearsonm

New Member
headstart;109285 wrote: Why buy a new trailer?
I definitely want to go used, I just want to know what the good ones are so that I can narrow the search a little. Sounds like a torsion axle with Bearing Buddies is a good start.
 

pearsonm

New Member
I looked at several enclosed 5x8's on the way to pick up my truck. I saw some v-nose motorcycle haulers with chocks and e-track installed, extra doors and nice walls but I liked my Baxley chock better, the e-track wasn't in the right place and I'd rather spend my money on track time rather than an extra door and white walls. I'm looking but I'm not having much luck finding decent used trailers. At this point it looks like for not much more money I can get a new utility trailer and set up a few things myself. I've got a couple more questions, though.

1) Spring axle for loads under 1,000 lbs? Today a dealer told me that for any load under 1,000 lbs he really recommends a spring axle over a torsional one. I told him that $100 to upgrade to a torsional is not an issue but he stood by his recommendation making me believe he's not jerking me around.

2) I prefer to have double rear doors instead of a ramp but am I going to have clearance issues while loading the bike? I'm 6'3" so I'm used to having to duck but the top of the opening looks really low.
 
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