Track day prep
- Thread starter ViperR6
- Start date
Please review the riders manual. If you have further questions, ask? There's a lot of knowledge on the forum, but the manual should answer most of your questions
https://www.n2td.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/N2-Riders-Manual-2015.pdf
https://www.n2td.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/N2-Riders-Manual-2015.pdf
tdelegram
Control Rider
As Dave stated read the manual there's lots in there. Generally you'll need to pass tech which is designed to keep you and other you're riding with safe from an equipment perspective. N and I groups don't require any special prep like safety wire, just a bike in good condition mechanically.
HondaGalToo
Control Rider
Yup, and numbers on the front and/or tail. It'll all be explained in the Riders' Manual. Welcome aboard!
Maybe a couple extra tips.....
Pull the fuses for your lights. It makes it less distracting and has the additional benefit of not baking tape to the light lenses.
Check your chain tension. All too frequently chains are too tight for street ridden bikes. While you're just getting started, the track works that suspension more than you think and you don't want that chain binding when the suspension (rear) tries to go through its travel.
Other than that, and just the normal stuff like making sure everything is solid, brakes are good, nothing loose, etc, you probably want to spend as much time making sure your personal protective gear is solid. Good helmet, leathers (one piece or full circumference zipper two piece), gauntlet gloves and riding boots. Back protector is highly recommended.
And - ear plugs.
Pull the fuses for your lights. It makes it less distracting and has the additional benefit of not baking tape to the light lenses.
Check your chain tension. All too frequently chains are too tight for street ridden bikes. While you're just getting started, the track works that suspension more than you think and you don't want that chain binding when the suspension (rear) tries to go through its travel.
Other than that, and just the normal stuff like making sure everything is solid, brakes are good, nothing loose, etc, you probably want to spend as much time making sure your personal protective gear is solid. Good helmet, leathers (one piece or full circumference zipper two piece), gauntlet gloves and riding boots. Back protector is highly recommended.
And - ear plugs.
Mike:p
Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
Plus 1 on everything previously stated. I remove my bulbs from the headlights and brake lights, it's just as easy for me to remove them as it is to pull the fuses, it's a personal choice. I also remove my front turn signals and the whole tag/turn signal assembly from the rear. It's probably easier for me on my bike then it will be for you because my bike is a naked bike. The reason I remove them is that I figure if I do go down that is one less part that I will have to replace, plus it's 4 less lenses I have to tape up if I take them off.
andyguo1023
New Member
About tires... How do I know what 50% of tread looks like? How do I determine if my tires will pass tech?
I have stock tires (Michelin Pilot road or something? ) on my r3 for the upcoming event, which is also my first track day. The tires have about 4000mi on them...but I don't really ride hard on the street. Based on the wear indicator, there is definitely tread life left.
How does tech inspection check tire life?
I have stock tires (Michelin Pilot road or something? ) on my r3 for the upcoming event, which is also my first track day. The tires have about 4000mi on them...but I don't really ride hard on the street. Based on the wear indicator, there is definitely tread life left.
How does tech inspection check tire life?
Mike:p
Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
I bring an extra key with me and a bag of zip ties I make a short and loose zip tie chain to keep my key with the bike in case of a rough get off. I have heard stories of guys going down, they and their bike were fine but the lost their key in the grass. Point being you would hate to waste a whole weekend and possibly have to replace an ignition over a 99 cent key and a 2 cents worth of zip tires.
vanelli56
Member
Honestly, New tires are the cheapest insurance you can buy. Given the miles on the current ones you have, I' guessing they would be boarder line anyway, tread wise... but if anything, you might have worn a flat spot in the middle, messing with the tire profile. I've seen it asked on here a thousand times.... If you have to ask if your tires are ok... then go ahead and change them.
Not to mention, you can get a great set of tires with a dual compound that will give you a better feel on the bike, and give you a lot more confidence on the track.
Plus, you can always keep your old tires to put back on to burn miles on the highway later on.
But, To answer your question.... how can you tell 50% tread?.... honestly I am not sure how they do it at tech inspection.... BUT.... from what I can tell, they look at your tire, and make sure its not flat spotted in the middle, make sure its not baked and discolored on the edges, and make sure there is tread above the wear bars.
I have seen the tech guys tell people that they are boarder-line, so they can run the morning sessions... but would need a different set after lunch... or they might tell them they can run the whole day, but to get different rubber before their next trackday.
There is usually a tire guy on-site for sales and service. Not sure what size the R3 takes... might want to check before hand to make sure they carry something for that. But you can get great prices on tires and they can mount them for you there.
Hope this helps.... and welcome to the addiction.
bmart
Control Rider
And there is good reason for this, two actually.
1-A tire with a flat spot will have a peak at each end of that flat spot. Those peaks will produce less grip.
2-The thin spot will not hold heat like the rest of the tread, so they will cool more quickly, again, providing less grip.
As experience grows, these things are managed by changing the areas of the track that a tire is pushed hard on.
1-A tire with a flat spot will have a peak at each end of that flat spot. Those peaks will produce less grip.
2-The thin spot will not hold heat like the rest of the tread, so they will cool more quickly, again, providing less grip.
As experience grows, these things are managed by changing the areas of the track that a tire is pushed hard on.
During tech inspection, we do not use a micrometer to measure tread depth. It is a judgment call by the staff member looking at the tire. If you are above the wear bars, you should be ok. Like others have stated, if there is any flat spot on the tire, replace it. This is typically only on the rear. When you tip into a corner you will be on the edge of the tire, right where that crown will be from the flat spot. It will cause the bike to suddenly tip in with no warning. Not a good experience at all. Mileage is not the only factor to consider. Age of the tire and how it was stored. If you have an old tire that was kept in a garage, it will be better than a newer tire that spent the winter outside.
If you are still on the fence about getting a new rear, post up pictures of it and let us take a look at it.
If you are still on the fence about getting a new rear, post up pictures of it and let us take a look at it.
tujabro
New Member
Woa. I still bring a back up key. Never knew a key could go out of the ignition
Sent from my SM-G925P using Tapatalk
Mike:p
Don’t be a Hero, be consistent.
Like I said I have only heard stories. The people that told me could have made up the story or someone told them the story. Either way it's a spare key for me. Not taking the chance.