Wheel Bearing

[Gorecki]

Okay, Before I take these out and/or destory them. I'd like to get some confirmation...

I've been inspecting and greasing what I can but my front wheel bearings appear to be sealed or maybe have some outside edge protection? I can't spin the bearings with my fingers very well, if at all. If I insert the axle with spacers and tighten by hand enough to get some compression, the bearings spin on the axle. There is no noise or gritty sort of sound. But, it's as if the grease in the bearings is syrup! They spin, but not very well and with resistance. I don't think I could balance a tire properly.

So, are they shot or should I go far enough to take out the seals and get one out to see if I can see inside to clean and repack?

I don't think they're OE bearings in there now.

Thanks!

 

[HighWay]

They are sealed bearings and are not serviceable. If you can't spin them by hand they need to be replaced.

 

[beechkingd]

They should have some resistance when the grease is cold. As the bearing spins the grease warms up and thins out a bit.

 

[Gorecki]

HighWay;218395 wrote: They are sealed bearings and are not serviceable. If you can't spin them by hand they need to be replaced.

Yeah I know if they are sealed, but I'm not so sure they're sealed. But I guess I'm replacing them only to find out for sure.

 

[Gorecki]

beechkingd;218432 wrote: They should have some resistance when the grease is cold. As the bearing spins the grease warms up and thins out a bit.

The thing that makes me question it is going over the rears I could turn the bearings in the hub with my finger without issue and they were solid, turned smoothly and cleanly. The fronts wouldn't really move without puttng the axle in to turn them.

Completely hear what you're saying, I just fear it's too much cause I can't for sure see how would someone could balance the wheel with the amount of resistance that's there now. Hence why I'm asking what feels like stupid questions. The bearings are cheap, getting them in/out is a bit of a PITA. :doh:

 

[Tdub]

although the bearings are sealed, it is fairly easy to remove the shield to clean and grease....BUT, removing the bearing to do so without damaging them is highly unlikely. JMO

 

[some guy #2]

What tool/technique is there to remove wheel bearings? I plan on replacing mine this winter and would like to know how rough this could be.

 

[Gorecki]

Tdub;218500 wrote: although the bearings are sealed, it is fairly easy to remove the shield to clean and grease....BUT, removing the bearing to do so without damaging them is highly unlikely. JMO
Thanks for that, unfortunately while I started this I had to go deal with a car issue for the wife so I got derailed.

some guy #2;218503 wrote: What tool/technique is there to remove wheel bearings? I plan on replacing mine this winter and would like to know how rough this could be.

I'll start a response but I'm sure others have more input on these. I *think* most are basically the same. Mine have an outer rubber seal, a circlip ring notching the bearing in place, then the bearing. Inside that an axle shaft leading to the opposing bearing, circlip and seal.

There are tools like bearing drivers to aid in getting these in and out but it seems most use a drifting rod to get them out through the hub and an old bearing or socket that's close to the size of the outer bearing to get new ones in. See some references to heating the hub a bit to ease getting new bearings into place, but I really haven't messed with it to see if it's going to really take that much persuasion.

I've done bearing work on a variety of cars, trucks, lawn mowers, trailers and bicycles...just not the machine I need to trust at 150+

 

[Spitz]

If in doubt, replace them. That and you dont balance a wheel on the wheel bearings, thats why wheel balancing stand have thier own low friction bearings, you get a better idea when the wheel is off.

To knock the bearings out you need to remove all the seals and any retainers if there are any. Then between the bearings is a spacer, you'll have to get a drift and move that spacer to the side as much as you can (not easy sometimes) and start knocking out the bearing, going around making sure you're not cocking the bearing too much as to damage the wheel and the press fit machined area. You just work the bearing out and then the spacer will come out, knock the other side out. Pressing the bearings in should be easier. Throw the bearings in the freezer and get everything ready to install. Heat up the wheel a little and the bearings should slide in with a small hammer blow. Make sure your putting somthing on the bearing thats hitting the very outer metal ring (outside race). Anytime you hit the inner race the bearing is junk in my eyes. Like posted above, removing them= damage to the bearing. I see it as unavoidable. They are cheap enough to replace.

 

[Gorecki]

Ya, I cut to the chase and have some new ones coming from the nesba store.

 

[Dave561]

Bearings are cheap, bearing failure is expensive and most spindles are not replaceable. So if you have catastrophic failure you could need to replace a whole axle.

 

[Teh_K]

Keep in mind that, when installing the bearings, you may have to install a certain side first.

On my Suzuki's, for example, you have to install the right-hand bearing until it seats all the way into the hub. Then, flip the wheel, drop in the spacer, and then install the left-hand bearing juuuuussst until the inner race barely touches the spacer. The bearing hole on this left-hand side actually goes deeper than the spacer will allow, so if you're just hammering away on the outer race, the spacer is essentially counter-hammering away on the inner races, which ruins the bearings...

So, be firm, yet gentle~

 

[daddyo]

If the seals aren't damaged you can press them out with the bearing. the seals need to be ordered from the dealer. I reused mine.

 

[Gorecki]

daddyo;220542 wrote: If the seals aren't damaged you can press them out with the bearing. the seals need to be ordered from the dealer. I reused mine.

I actually got an allballs seals & bearings kit through the nesbastore. Other than being on travel for a while the problem I've run into is drifting the bearings out isn't going so well. The spacer is wedged in too tightly to be moved enough to get a good whack on the backside of the bearing. Getting the impression it maybe related to why the bearings weren't working so well.

Now I just need to get my hands on a slide hammer or the like expanding tool so the inner bearing can take the force instead of the backside. Great, more money.

 

[Bubba Zanetti]

Gorecki:

I saw a nice wheel bearing remover set (motion pro) for sale on ebay a few months ago at a steal.

Maybe comb around a little before you run out and buyone new.

BZ

 

[Gorecki]

Bubba Zanetti;220572 wrote: Gorecki:

I saw a nice wheel bearing remover set (motion pro) for sale on ebay a few months ago at a steal.

Maybe comb around a little before you run out and buyone new.

Will do Dan, thanks for the heads up!

 

[some guy #2]

Does HF not sell the bearing puller?

 

[Gorecki]

some guy #2;220590 wrote: Does HF not sell the bearing puller?

Yes, HF has a set for ~$40 and would be what I would likely head toward if I don't find better and/or cheaper.

 

[Teh_K]

Gorecki;220544 wrote: I actually got an allballs seals & bearings kit through the nesbastore. Other than being on travel for a while the problem I've run into is drifting the bearings out isn't going so well. The spacer is wedged in too tightly to be moved enough to get a good whack on the backside of the bearing. Getting the impression it maybe related to why the bearings weren't working so well.

Now I just need to get my hands on a slide hammer or the like expanding tool so the inner bearing can take the force instead of the backside. Great, more money.

When I did my first bearing change, I ran into this problem, too. I could move the inner spacer a little, but not enough for the drift to get good contact. Every time I'd hammer, the drift would just slide off.

I ended up getting a bearing remover. I got the Pit Posse set, but I think MotionPro makes a similar set. It takes quite a bit of hammering, but I've done about 6 wheel's worth of bearings so far, so... I guess it was money well spent.

After repeat usage, the collet (the spreader thing that you insert into the bearing) doesn't grab as well, but you can just hammer the splits apart harder and it'll stick.

 

[Gorecki]

Thanks! Yeah, already looking into just getting the correct size motion pro collet, just a bit of a struggle finding the size at the moment. My trusty digital caliper battery just up and died and trying to measure with cheap plastic one I had lying around gives me only so much confidence it's accurate. :doh:

I'm pretty sure it's 25mm for the bearings ID and most providers jump from 22mm to 28mm so *I think* I've got it right. Just another one of those things that isn't in the service manuals.