stkr
New Member
This is a little long. Bear with me please...
Okay - long story short - I ran out of gas at Barber last month. Luckily it was the last session on the last day with only 2 laps left, so it wasn't too bad. I even managed to nurse it back to pit road.
So...... Now I'm adding a low-fuel light to my dash (aka - sheet metal tach holder). I got the LED mounted and wired, but I think I'm using the wrong wires. Actually, I know I am, but would like some verification before I rewire it. I've already added LED's for oil pressure, and neutral, and they both work. After I installed the LED, I rigged up a drain line and vacuum pump to drain the fuel into a gas can. It all worked great but the light never came on. Ughhh!!!
I pulled the tank off. Removed the fuel pump assembly, and removed the low and low-low level switch assembly. I went through the testing procedure in the manual, and it turns out the switches are bad as far as I can tell. I'm not sure if you can order "just" the level switches, or as the microfiche shows, the whole fuel pump assembly as one part. For $545.00
Can the switches be ordered as an individual part/sub-assembly without the fuel pump/housing?
Now to the wiring question: (I've attached screen captures of the wiring diagram, and test procedures from the manual)
I don't have an instrument cluster so I can't trace the circuits/pins. After looking at the wiring diagram, and doing the test procedure, it appears as though the level switches are wired on the ground side of the light circuit. The low level uses a "Red/Black" wire, the low-low level uses a "Black/Light Green" wire, and they both connect to the common "Black/White" wire through the housing chassis.
I cannot tell on the wiring diagram where the hell the fuel light is getting its power from if all of the above wiring is the ground side of the circuit. Would I be correct in guessing that the instrument cluster has a +12 Volt circuit that powers all of the lights and each one is switched on the ground side of the loop? If this is the case, then I should be able to just grab power from a switched +12 Volt wire, run that to one side of the LED, and then tie the other side of the LED into the low-level switch circuit.
Does that make any sense? :dunno: Crap it's getting late...
Thanks for your patience :cheers:
Okay - long story short - I ran out of gas at Barber last month. Luckily it was the last session on the last day with only 2 laps left, so it wasn't too bad. I even managed to nurse it back to pit road.
So...... Now I'm adding a low-fuel light to my dash (aka - sheet metal tach holder). I got the LED mounted and wired, but I think I'm using the wrong wires. Actually, I know I am, but would like some verification before I rewire it. I've already added LED's for oil pressure, and neutral, and they both work. After I installed the LED, I rigged up a drain line and vacuum pump to drain the fuel into a gas can. It all worked great but the light never came on. Ughhh!!!
I pulled the tank off. Removed the fuel pump assembly, and removed the low and low-low level switch assembly. I went through the testing procedure in the manual, and it turns out the switches are bad as far as I can tell. I'm not sure if you can order "just" the level switches, or as the microfiche shows, the whole fuel pump assembly as one part. For $545.00
Can the switches be ordered as an individual part/sub-assembly without the fuel pump/housing?
Now to the wiring question: (I've attached screen captures of the wiring diagram, and test procedures from the manual)
I don't have an instrument cluster so I can't trace the circuits/pins. After looking at the wiring diagram, and doing the test procedure, it appears as though the level switches are wired on the ground side of the light circuit. The low level uses a "Red/Black" wire, the low-low level uses a "Black/Light Green" wire, and they both connect to the common "Black/White" wire through the housing chassis.
I cannot tell on the wiring diagram where the hell the fuel light is getting its power from if all of the above wiring is the ground side of the circuit. Would I be correct in guessing that the instrument cluster has a +12 Volt circuit that powers all of the lights and each one is switched on the ground side of the loop? If this is the case, then I should be able to just grab power from a switched +12 Volt wire, run that to one side of the LED, and then tie the other side of the LED into the low-level switch circuit.
Does that make any sense? :dunno: Crap it's getting late...
Thanks for your patience :cheers: