Oil filter...Name brand vs generic

[darth nater]

For as long as I have been riding motorcycles, I have always just bought the manufacturer filter for my bikes (so Suzuki filter for my gsxr and Kawi filters for my 636). These filters are normally $10-$12.

I found this website that discusses oil filter models that fit different bikes.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

My question is...what do you guys use? The name brand filters or maybe a generic brand like Mobil or SuperTech?

Thanks

Nate

 

[JohnS]

I change my oil and filter after 4 trackdays so I just use a fram, yeah I know fram sucks. I change them enough were I think I am fine, Bike has 7200 miles 3200 of which are track miles.

John

 

[Folly1]

K&N. Their airfilters are a rip-off but the oil filters are OK, NESBA sells them and they have the nut on the bottom for easy on/off and safty wiring.

Ben.

 

[PJZOCC624]

Good topic....

Ive always use OEM specific, probably because I change my oil/filter frequently enough that I'm not looking for a filter to give me "extended use". I do like the idea of the K&N with the nut on the bottom, though. Unless its twice as much as the OEM I'll probably give that a try.

 

[track4me]

I have been using the K&N filter due to the nut and safety wire holes

 

[Matt H]

+1 K&N for the nut and safety wire. I can get them right at the track from NESBA Parts as well. I like easy....

 

[Dave561]

I use OEM or the Mobile 1 filter on my hondas

 

[jpaulsen]

K&N only. Great quality + nut/wire option makes it easy. Usually change every 2 race weekends or 3 trackdays.

 

[Meat]

Do the race org's (WERA and CCS) allow the use of the safety wire holes? CMRA does not but that is the only rule book I have read.

 

[darth nater]

I'll have to lookup the safety wiring for a oil filter, but the track bike I bought has a clamp that goes around the oil filter and some metal pieces attached to the frame. The clamp has a metal piece that slides in between the two pieces on the frame in essence locking it so the clamp on the filter cannot turn and thus the filter cannot turn. That probably did not make sense but does it sound like a good way of safety wiring the oil filter?

 

[jpaulsen]

That's usually the method if it is a non K&N filter. There has to be a way to secure it and prevent it from turning. It's odd that a race organization would prohibit K&N as it is purpose built filter for safety wire and racing. The built in nut is there to torque to proper specs and the hole in the nut is for the safety wire. Do the CMRA rules prohibit drilling a hole in your existing filter for wiring, or specifically prohibit the K&N method? I would think it is the former...

 

[TwoTyres]

I will never use a Fram in any of my vehicles but on the bike i have been using OEM's or Vesrah.
here's the link to the comparison tests

Here is how i wired mine.

 

[frankenduc]

WERA tech passed my bike a couple of years ago when I was using the K&N filters no questions asked.
This was when they were new on the market as well. I'm not sure why an organization would rather have a clamp and safety wire rather then a fixed point to safety wire through.

 

[Blaise]

I run a Bosch 3330 automotive filter. If it works for my 3.5 liter Maxima, it will work fine for my 600cc motorcycle.

 

[Meat]

From page 17 of the 2008 CMRA rulebook:

"*All spin-on oil filters must be torqued to factory specifications and be secured with a hose clamp and safety wire. This includes K&N oil filters."

 

[ta2kutz]

i run wix filters. ive always had good luck with them.
and i use the hose clamp method although im not in A its still good practice

 

[BonesDT]

I use AMSOil filters, but that's just because I'm already ordering their oil, and it's black.

There are so many thoeries, literature, opinions out there regarding motor oil and filters. You will go brain dead trying to find the truth. The only thing I have strong beliefs about is using synthetic rather than petroleum. The Lucas "gear toy" in auto stores is pretty convincing.

That being said, IMO, if you change your filter everytime you do an oil change, and you do your oil changes as frequently as you're suppose to, and you use good (full synthetic) oil, then the dirt cheap filters (FRAM) should be just as good as any other.

 

[Jmurr46]

The biggest problem with Fram filters ( I have witnessed this myself) is at the higher RPM's of track use they tend to BALOON. What I am saying is the nice flats on the end of the filter disappear. The internal pressure will get high enough to expand the metal body of the filter. Left alone long enough they will fail with catastrophic results.

 

[TwoTyres]

The other problem with fram filters are they use a cheap cardboard anti drain back valve. these tend to leak allowing the filter to empty back into the pan and having to prime it every time you start the engine causing unnecessary wear.
Good quality filters use Silicon or Nitrile valves.

 

[Monkeyspank]

FRAM for 3 years on my bike - No Problems
I use a hose clamp to safety wire it, like the picture above.