Yamaha R6 slipper help

lemondrop

lemondrop

Professional Asphalt Surfer
Just picked up an '07 R6. LOVE IT except the slipper wasn't as I had expected. I did a few demos and the demos seemed to work a bit better. Now, this could be because I am pushing a bit harder on my bike as opposed to the demos, but at BeaveRun a couple weekends ago, I was hoping all over the place coming into T1.

Anything I can adjust or should I start looking at a YoYo or STM?
 
lemondrop

lemondrop

Professional Asphalt Surfer
dj...are you just giving a shout out to yamaha or did the switch really help?

thanks for the link!
 
headstart

headstart

New Member
Follow the link above or do a search, the mod is detailed on one of the r6 forums- I can't remember which one. There are 3 Y springs you can cut. I started off cutting off all but 3mm on the top spring, then leaving 9 mm on the second spring, and the bottom spring untouched. I liked it but thought it still could be smoother.

I went back and cut off all the fingers on the top spring and only left about 3mm on the second spring and am much happier with it now. It's a cheap mod and replacement springs are cheap so you can always go back for only a few dollars and a little time if you don't like it.
 
lemondrop

lemondrop

Professional Asphalt Surfer
yea, solid link above...but an old post, so all the pictures are gone.....will continue my search for a pic or two before I dive into this.
 
M

Mr.DJ

New Member
lemondrop;84070 wrote: dj...are you just giving a shout out to yamaha or did the switch really help?

thanks for the link!
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I may sound like Billy Mays at times, but I wouldn't claim something to work if I didn't believe it. Too visible to have a busted reputation. (more busted than already is :))

If you doubt it, just as anyone one of the members (or Yamaha) that attended the Yamalube seminar at Barber a few months back. I wasn't all that convinced and being in Sales - I always feel that I'm being sold to :) After speaking to some very well known R6 tuners (not going to name drop) and trying it myself - I noticed. I really didn't think I would and when I tore the motor apart..... proof.

These are the facts as they apply to me. Your mileage may (or may not) differ.
 
dale.b

dale.b

Member
Anyone know an easy way to get the clutch cover back on? I used safety wire to lift the clutch actuating pin into the proper position through the oil filler hole - but it wasn't very easy.
 
headstart

headstart

New Member
dale.b;84132 wrote: Anyone know an easy way to get the clutch cover back on? I used safety wire to lift the clutch actuating pin into the proper position through the oil filler hole - but it wasn't very easy.
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Oh yeah, that was the biggest pain ever the first time! All the neighbors heard me swearing in the garage over that one. I found now I can bring the cover up from underneath and catch the pin and have it snap into place, but it took awhile to find the right way to do it.

I also watched another CR put a jack stand under the rearset so the bike leaned over to the right side and that let the pin point downward so he could just put the cover straight on. Kind of hard to describe though.
 
dale.b

dale.b

Member
headstart;84306 wrote: I found now I can bring the cover up from underneath and catch the pin and have it snap into place, but it took awhile to find the right way to do it.

I also watched another CR put a jack stand under the rearset so the bike leaned over to the right side and that let the pin point downward so he could just put the cover straight on. Kind of hard to describe though.
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Actually, it makes sense. I'll have to give these a try next time.
 
K

Katie785

New Member
dale.b;84132 wrote: Anyone know an easy way to get the clutch cover back on? I used safety wire to lift the clutch actuating pin into the proper position through the oil filler hole - but it wasn't very easy.
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Rozema said to put a glob of grease on the pin, then put the cover back on :)
 
headstart

headstart

New Member
lemondrop;84384 wrote: :dunno:eek:k....you guys are scaring me now with all this tuff talk:doh::doh:
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Now that I have done it twice it's pretty easy.

Remember though you need to leave the bike in gear and get someone to stand on the rear brake to keep the wheel from moving, at least that is what I did. And you need a big breaker bar or impact wrench to get the clutch boss nut off. Also having a spare gasket on hand is good, in case it rips.
 
bigkaley

bigkaley

Control Rider
headstart;84439 wrote: Remember though you need to leave the bike in gear and get someone to stand on the rear brake to keep the wheel from moving, at least that is what I did. And you need a big breaker bar or impact wrench to get the clutch boss nut off. Also having a spare gasket on hand is good, in case it rips.
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http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0008/

Highly suggest this to hold the clutch basket instead of using the "bike in gear, stand on the rear brake and using an air impact gun" technique. At $32, it's much cheaper than a transmission rebuild. I have seen transmissions not hold up to the above technique for removing the clutch boss nut. Also, you'll never get a correct torque on the nut without it.
 
barry38

barry38

Member
bigkaley;84490 wrote: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0008/

Highly suggest this to hold the clutch basket instead of using the "bike in gear, stand on the rear brake and using an air impact gun" technique. At $32, it's much cheaper than a transmission rebuild. I have seen transmissions not hold up to the above technique for removing the clutch boss nut. Also, you'll never get a correct torque on the nut without it.
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Dude if you ever decide to change careers, just let me know.
 
lemondrop

lemondrop

Professional Asphalt Surfer
Burnall4;84571 wrote: Thats why number is on speed dial :doh:
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HA! after your brake bleeding abilities were tested at the beginning of this season...i might try it on my own:p
 
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